https://www.ebay.com/itm/INTERMEDIAT...UAAOSwehZaLDTx

Anyone done this repair and is this what a lower steering shaft looks like not to be dumb? How much labor is involved? I had the Toyota dealer service my LS as usual and they called the sister Lexus dealer and was told it is not a commom problem but probably lower steering shaft its got around 185k

 

Manual says 3 hours is standard, but looking at the steps to remove the complete steering shaft assembly, it looks to be a lot more involved.

Perhaps someone else will chime in who has done it?

 

Thanks good start. Toyota was 650 with Toyota parts theres your 3 hours thanks alot.. I wonder about these parts from Canada.

 

Easy to do. 1 hour max on a lift and you know what you're doing. 2-3 hours if you're doing it yourself. It's easy enough to diy.

 

Watch this video and re assess the situation. The vid is not an LS but the bolt in question applies for almost every model. I was ready to order new tie rods and LBJ's until I tried this and it worked. The bolt at each union, there are 3, next to a u joint has knurling that wears over time. I simply tightened the top bolt, closest to the steering wheel (same as the vid), and now my clunk is GONE. It has been driving me crazy and it's a simple fix. I ordered 3 new bolts from Lexus, they will be here tomorrow, and I'll replace all 3. Lexus/ Toyota Part No.- 9008011555

 

$1.44 ea at Bell Lexus

 

Ya thats just like what it sounds like. My buddies kid is pretty handy smart guy I sent him this link. You guys are awesome.

 

Per the Service Manual proper torque for the bolt is 26 ft-lbf.
I didn't use a torque wrench when I was simply trying this out and I'm pretty sure I went past 26. I'd guess this is necessary with a worn bolt as the added torque compensated for the worn knurling. If you end up replacing the bolts torque them to 26.

 

 

 

Had a look at the hexbolts image..and they appear to have a splined shank...(was OEM P.N. superseded?)

In my minds eye envision a splined fastener press-fitted into a wheel hub. but here the steering column shaft u-joint clamp is tapped for said bolt (Dealer states no nut)..so why the splined shank??

 

Yes the PN has been superseded, here's a pic of the prior-
I didn't engineer the design but I'd guess the splines apply pressure against the non threaded half of the u joint to prevent it from becoming loose over time. Very much like the splines of a hub bolt hold it secure as the hub spins. What I do know is there was a slight shimmy in my steering wheel, I thought was caused by worn tie rods or LBJ's, that is now GONE!

If there is a noticeable difference between the new and the old bolts I will post pics.

 

wow my 05 LS430 with 82k miles have the same issue, it gets louder when you go over bumps or bumpy road.
Im gonna try the fix!!! thx

 

Please post an image of superseding P.N.

Thanks

 

When I installed my headers I removed the lower part of the shaft its complicated and easy to mess up if you are not paying attention at all times its very cramped and there are a ton of wires near there so its easy to yank something out if your not paying attention. Use the seat belt to secure your steering wheel from moving. Take lots of pictures before you start removing stuff so you have a reference point for certain parts of how there positioned.