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C1234 - Malfunction in yaw rate sensor

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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 08:15 AM
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Default C1234 - Malfunction in yaw rate sensor

Hi everyone, my 2004 LS 430 had this issue happen over the weekend. I plugged my brother's Innova reader and it showed C1234, Lexus ABS, Malfunction in yaw rate sensor.

Based on this thread, I think it's a sensor malfunction. I'm unsure which part it might be, and was hoping someone could chime in with some knowledge. Thank you.

Part # 8918330060 - $356.61 (ouch)
Part # 8918350020 - $680.95 (yikes!)
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 08:56 AM
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Need to recalibrate first. Yaw sensor may give values outside normal range due to incorrect starting value, thus giving a malfunction error. I have never seen LS430 with broken yaw sensors. Please look at zero calibration procedure. There is a way to do manually with a wire. After the procedure, you may notice a substantial difference in overall car stability.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 11:18 AM
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Thank you, I'll definitely try that before buying a new sensor.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Marston
Thank you, I'll definitely try that before buying a new sensor.
Check out this member's post about it. Apparently some of the YouTube videos show jumping the wrong ports. Be very careful which ports you jump across... you can cause the airbags to deploy by accident if you jump the wrong ones lol.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 01:44 PM
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From BigNel76's thread,

Originally Posted by BigNel76
Thanks for the nice words. I did get it all 100% fixed! Used the old paperclip jumper into the OBDII port to trick the car into the zero point calibration procedure. There are lots of videos out there on youtube, but many with the wrong ports on the plug for this car. It was the 3rd from the left on top, and the 5th from the left on bottom. I'm guessing pulling so many ECU's in and out flipped the system out a little bit. Anyway, so far so good. The car was perfect all weekend and constantly makes me happy driving it. I have a 2018 WRX that's tuned up a bit, a Sequoia, and my wife's LX460, and yet there 's just something about this car...I probably went on a little long with the narrative portion of things (haha) but does appear that this may be a somewhat different scenario than most have gone through, so again, hopefully someone else will benefit with this fix.
I'm unsure if model year matters, but mines is a 2004.

Are these the correct ports on the OBDII sensor?

Also, is this the correct method to jump the OBDII port? I'm an idiot, so I kind of have to have my hand held through everything.

Originally Posted by alpop
After my mechanic changed my brake pads and the break wear sensor, he reseted the memory (by mistake) and now I'm getting the "Check VSC" warning. From what I've read, I need to do a Zero point calibration and I found something online that doesn't require any special tool but only a jump wire. For that I need to jump two pins in DLC3, which are TS and CG, and I got differrent opinions about their location in DLC3. So I'm looking to find a DLC3 diagram for 2003 LS 430, if anyone can help. Here is the instructions I found for the zero point calibration; any comments about this are appreciated.

******************************************************

Zero Point Calibration Using SST 09843–18040
The following procedure may be used in the cases where a Diagnostic Tester is
not available.
NOTE:
While performing the Zero Point Calibration, do not tilt, move or shake the vehicle.
The vehicle must remain in a stationary condition throughout the entire process.
Be sure to perform the procedure on a level surface with an inclination of less than 1%.
1. Ensure the shift lever is in the “P” range.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON.
3. Using SST 09843–18040, repeat a cycle of short and open between terminals Ts and
CG of DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds (refer to the specific vehicle EWD for
TS and CG pin location in the DLC3).
4. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased.
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.
6. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 are disconnected.
7. Turn the ignition switch ON.
8. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch
is turned ON.
9. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition
switch OFF.
10. Connect terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 using SST 09843–18040.
11. Turn the ignition switch ON.
12. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about
4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals.
13. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition
switch OFF.
14. Remove the SST from terminals Ts and CG of DLC3.
15. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete.
NOTE:
If viewing Diagnostic Tester Data List after repair, the Steering Angle Sensor may
remain at 1150 until the vehicle reaches 28 mph. This is a normal condition until the
learned values of the steering angle have been achieved.
Calibration
Procedure
With SST

*********************************************
The SST 09843–18040 is ...the jump wire, any piece of wire you may find.
Here are two links with TS and CG in different positions:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/200-series-c...-g-sensor.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...c-vsc-off.html
Thank you very much.
alex
Attached Thumbnails C1234 - Malfunction in yaw rate sensor-dlc.bmp  

Last edited by Marston; Jun 18, 2018 at 01:48 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 02:51 PM
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Yes, both the procedure and diagram are correct.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ls430w140
Need to recalibrate first. Yaw sensor may give values outside normal range due to incorrect starting value, thus giving a malfunction error. I have never seen LS430 with broken yaw sensors. Please look at zero calibration procedure. There is a way to do manually with a wire. After the procedure, you may notice a substantial difference in overall car stability.
Here's another link on Zero Calibration Procedure...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...echstream.html
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Marston
Thank you, I'll definitely try that before buying a new sensor.
Zero calib is always first thing to do when:
1) ECU generates an error related to VSC, Yaw State Sensor or even Skid control, or
2) Car is not going straight on the interstate and is always correcting itself to the curb, or
3) After Front wheel alignment is done, or
4) Installation of aftermarket suspension took place,
5) Brake system maintenance/component replacement.

Yaw rate sensor uses a formula to calculate angular acceleration/deceleration value. LS430 VSC is critically dependent on fast and effective work of this small component, which is located by the way in the console box. Simply saying, if yaw is wrongly adjusted, the car will be always “finding” the correct straight pathway which is according to the car needs to be corrected for the driver causing steering wandering.

In case if zero calib doesn’t help, then diagnostic should go in to Yaw rate sensor itself, Incorrect voltage between ecu, or ECU itself.

Last edited by ls430w140; Jun 18, 2018 at 04:15 PM.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 07:10 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by ls430w140


Zero calib is always first thing to do when:
1) ECU generates an error related to VSC, Yaw State Sensor or even Skid control, or
2) Car is not going straight on the interstate and is always correcting itself to the curb, or
3) After Front wheel alignment is done, or
4) Installation of aftermarket suspension took place,
5) Brake system maintenance/component replacement.

Yaw rate sensor uses a formula to calculate angular acceleration/deceleration value. LS430 VSC is critically dependent on fast and effective work of this small component, which is located by the way in the console box. Simply saying, if yaw is wrongly adjusted, the car will be always “finding” the correct straight pathway which is according to the car needs to be corrected for the driver causing steering wandering.

In case if zero calib doesn’t help, then diagnostic should go in to Yaw rate sensor itself, Incorrect voltage between ecu, or ECU itself.
I did just do the airbag to standard suspension swap, as well as an alignment at Lexus. Would this be something that causes this to happen? Strange thing is it's been about 200 miles since and now it just started to appear.
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Old Jun 18, 2018 | 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Marston
I did just do the airbag to standard suspension swap, as well as an alignment at Lexus. Would this be something that causes this to happen? Strange thing is it's been about 200 miles since and now it just started to appear.
Suspension swap like this will require full suspension reset and absolutely a zero calibration to be performed on the flat ground with steering wheel in neutral position. Good thing is if you return to Lexus dealer and ask about it, they may offer you to do it for free (based on already paid alignment).
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 10:05 PM
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Had a chance to try both methods, several times, but no dice. Can anyone see what step I might be making a mistake?

The biggest issue is I can't seem to get the "TEST" message to display.

Arcturus Method

1) Go to a level ground, park the car and turn it off. Put the car in park. - Done
2) Uncurl a paperclip and stick each end in one of the two pins shown in the OBD II connector under the dash. - Done, 3rd from left top, 5th from left bottom
3) Turn the key until the interior accessories come on, but don't start the car. - Done
4) Wait until you see the "VSC" and "TEST" text in the display on the dash. Leave it for a minute or two just to be safe. - VSC and Test never appear. The red VSC exclamation mark doesn't appear, only a fast blinking AFS OFF light, left it for over 3 minutes
5) Turn off the interior accessories with the key. - Done
6) Start the car and verify that the "Check VSC" message for zero point calibration has been cleared (You will probably need a Techstream or Advanced OBD code reader with ABS capability to see the actual error message for zero point calibration). - Pulled out paperclip, VSC red exclamation mark still appears as well as check VSC message
7) Drive and make sure it's been cleared.

Alpop Method

Zero Point Calibration Using SST 09843–18040
The following procedure may be used in the cases where a Diagnostic Tester is
not available.
NOTE:
While performing the Zero Point Calibration, do not tilt, move or shake the vehicle.
The vehicle must remain in a stationary condition throughout the entire process.
Be sure to perform the procedure on a level surface with an inclination of less than 1%.
1. Ensure the shift lever is in the “P” range. - Done
2. Turn the ignition switch ON. - Done
3. Using SST 09843–18040, repeat a cycle of short and open between terminals Ts and
CG of DLC3 4 times or more within 8 seconds (refer to the specific vehicle EWD for
TS and CG pin location in the DLC3). - Done
4. Verify that the VSC indicator light is lit indicating the recorded zero point is erased. - Red exclamation mark blinks slowly
5. Turn the ignition switch OFF. - Done
6. Be sure the terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 are disconnected. - Done
7. Turn the ignition switch ON. - Done
8. Check that the VSC warning light goes off about 15 seconds after the ignition switch - Red exclamation mark blinks slowly
is turned ON.
9. After ensuring that the VSC warning light remains OFF for 2 seconds, turn the ignition
switch OFF. Red exclamation does not turn off, keeps blinking
10. Connect terminals Ts and CG of DLC3 using SST 09843–18040. - Done
11. Turn the ignition switch ON. - Done
12. After turning the ignition switch ON, check that the VSC warning light is lit for about
4 seconds and then starts quick blinking at 0.13 second intervals. -Doesn't blink that fast, nothing on with the paperclip still in port
13. After ensuring the blinking of the VSC warning light for 2 seconds, turn the ignition
switch OFF.
14. Remove the SST from terminals Ts and CG of DLC3.
15. Drive the vehicle for at least 5 minutes to confirm Zero Point Calibration is complete. -Red exclamation VSC light stays on after starting car
NOTE:
If viewing Diagnostic Tester Data List after repair, the Steering Angle Sensor may
remain at 1150 until the vehicle reaches 28 mph. This is a normal condition until the
learned values of the steering angle have been achieved.
Calibration
Procedure
With SST
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 08:47 AM
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Update:

- Gave up with paperclip / wire method. Could not seem to clear sensors or initiate a calibration
- Tried a Techstream, no luck. Same issue, could not clear and initiate a calibration.
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 09:42 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Marston
Update:

- Gave up with paperclip / wire method. Could not seem to clear sensors or initiate a calibration
- Tried a Techstream, no luck. Same issue, could not clear and initiate a calibration.
Sorry to hear that you were unable to complete zero calibration. If you followed all the steps correctly and haven't seen VSC or AFS light flashing, this can indicate the need for further research. We need to know if its the angular sensor problem, wiring, connector, or ECM, or anything else related to VSC/Braking system. Is it possible to see the full list of DTC that may be obtained using a scanner?
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Old Jun 25, 2018 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ls430w140
Sorry to hear that you were unable to complete zero calibration. If you followed all the steps correctly and haven't seen VSC or AFS light flashing, this can indicate the need for further research. We need to know if its the angular sensor problem, wiring, connector, or ECM, or anything else related to VSC/Braking system. Is it possible to see the full list of DTC that may be obtained using a scanner?
I'll see what I can pull tonight. As far as I recall, it was only the C1234 DTC.

I'm going to bring it in tomorrow to see if it's related to the front end alignment that was done. If that does not fix the issue, I might just get a replacement Yaw sensor from ebay and try that.
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Old Jun 26, 2018 | 01:48 PM
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Final update:

Just got back from the dealership, looks like the issue was due to the sensor. They were unable to clear the VSC light as well.

I will be trying to determine a new OEM sensor or a the pick and pull method. I'll post an update once I get a plan in place.

BLUF:

At least for me, if you're getting a C1234 error, and cannot clear the ECU to perform another zero point calibration, it looks like it will be a faulty Yaw sensor.
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