04 ls430. crank no start.
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04 ls430. crank no start.
happened couple days ago. car was driving good. no problems at all. parked car for 2 days went to go start it no start. its cranking but no start. I'm like wth? couple days ago you were just fine and now it don't want to start. battery light was on car weak crank so I'm ok maybe battery not enough voltage to start car. i went to purchase a new battery. with the same cca as the oem lexus battery. nothing. cranks no start. everything in the car works. i checked for faults with a generic scanner and found like 40 stored faults. random misfire detected, system too lean bank 1 and 2. H02S heater control circuit low and high bank 1 sensor 1 and 2, mass volume air flow circuit, thermostat, trans range circuit. i can go on. car was normal couple of days ago and now it does not want to turn over. gonna try again tomorrow.
if you guys got any input that would be great. thank you so much.
if you guys got any input that would be great. thank you so much.
Last edited by hnlcelsior; Jun 2, 2018 at 03:12 AM.
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LS430 engine is fuel-injected, and I suspect your cylinders are flooded due to the weak/slow crank (i.e. your spark plugs are wet). Try to push and hold the gas pedal to the floor and then crank the engine. This may take time, but do not continue for more than 20 seconds because you will overheat and possibly damage the starter.
If this procedure does not get your car started, your may have too much oily deposit on the spark plugs which prevent them from giving out enough spark. In this case, you will have to remove them to clean or replace.
If this procedure does not get your car started, your may have too much oily deposit on the spark plugs which prevent them from giving out enough spark. In this case, you will have to remove them to clean or replace.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Sep 2016
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From: PA
I'm curious if this has any effect since the pedal does not have a cable linkage (from what I was told), meaning at least in cars newer than ours, such as when there is a push to start mechanism, the computer is making the start decision (I have witnessed a push to start car not starting, and it does crank a lot longer than normal in an attempt, but does not do it indefinitely)
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I'm curious if this has any effect since the pedal does not have a cable linkage (from what I was told), meaning at least in cars newer than ours, such as when there is a push to start mechanism, the computer is making the start decision (I have witnessed a push to start car not starting, and it does crank a lot longer than normal in an attempt, but does not do it indefinitely)
From page 396 in the owners manual:
(b) Starting a flooded engine
If the engine will not start, your engine may be flooded because of repeated cranking.
If this happens, turn the ignition switch to “START” with the accelerator pedal fully depressed.
Continue this operation for 30 seconds and then stop cranking. Then try starting the
engine with your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If the engine does not start after 30 seconds of cranking, release the ignition switch,
wait a few minutes and try again.
If the engine still will not start, it needs adjustment or repair.
Call a Lexus dealer, Roadside Assistance or Customer
Service Assistance. (See “Foreword”.)
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2017
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From: HI state of mind
LS430 engine is fuel-injected, and I suspect your cylinders are flooded due to the weak/slow crank (i.e. your spark plugs are wet). Try to push and hold the gas pedal to the floor and then crank the engine. This may take time, but do not continue for more than 20 seconds because you will overheat and possibly damage the starter.
If this procedure does not get your car started, your may have too much oily deposit on the spark plugs which prevent them from giving out enough spark. In this case, you will have to remove them to clean or replace.
If this procedure does not get your car started, your may have too much oily deposit on the spark plugs which prevent them from giving out enough spark. In this case, you will have to remove them to clean or replace.
thanks for the info. I just tried it nothing. Wait alittle why and tried it again. Nothing. I’m gonna check out the plugs and go from there. I’ll keep you guys updated. Again thank you.
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I even jumped the fuel pump relay to even see if maybe it was a relay problem before getting to the plugs. Nothing. Still cranks but won’t turn over.
Gonna check the plugs and see if it’s fouled
Gonna check the plugs and see if it’s fouled
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From: HI state of mind
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Is there any issue that would trigger all those faults at once? For example, on my BMW, when the DSC pump failed, it had 2 faults which referred to the failure. But I stupidly turned the ignition on after I had removed the pump including the ABS module (not to start, to display the ODO), and then it lit up like a XMAS tree, and there were about 25 new faults which COULD NOT be cleared until the pump were reinstalled. Maybe there is in the sea of faults, 2 or so that indicate the actual trouble....point being the root cause became buried in the multiple faults. However, someone on the forum (not many) could say, hey, did you by chance turn your ignition on when the pump was out, i.e. don't worry about 23/25 faults (they lead astray)...
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Could be a bad mass air flow sensor, on big sedans from Europe this is a classic issue. Otherwise it is a spark/fuel issue. As the guys noted, check your fuel pump, fuel pump relay, check injector pulse. I would unplug coils and look for micro-cracks as well just to be sure, since you are getting a random mis code.
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From: HI state of mind
Is there any issue that would trigger all those faults at once? For example, on my BMW, when the DSC pump failed, it had 2 faults which referred to the failure. But I stupidly turned the ignition on after I had removed the pump including the ABS module (not to start, to display the ODO), and then it lit up like a XMAS tree, and there were about 25 new faults which COULD NOT be cleared until the pump were reinstalled. Maybe there is in the sea of faults, 2 or so that indicate the actual trouble....point being the root cause became buried in the multiple faults. However, someone on the forum (not many) could say, hey, did you by chance turn your ignition on when the pump was out, i.e. don't worry about 23/25 faults (they lead astray)...
crap honestly I'm not sure. i had a generic meter not really telling me if it was a current fault or a stored fault. I hook up a different scanner but no dtc stored. i cleared my faults after i thought maybe my battery was my culprit. so replaced battery then clear faults start car. crap and nothing.. this is killing me. I'm trying to do everything before going to a dealer or aftermarket shop.
Thread Starter
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From: HI state of mind
Could be a bad mass air flow sensor, on big sedans from Europe this is a classic issue. Otherwise it is a spark/fuel issue. As the guys noted, check your fuel pump, fuel pump relay, check injector pulse. I would unplug coils and look for micro-cracks as well just to be sure, since you are getting a random mis code.
i jumped the fuel pump relay thinking maybe i had a crappy relay. still does not turn over. so my relay could still be good. i followed that diag chart up above for the fuel pump. so i measured resistance terminals 4 and 5 of fuel pump i got 0.7 ohms. i think spec was 0.2-3.0 ohms. i checked for power at the connector 12v. so i can say my fuel pump is ok? but whats weird is i don't even hear it? like its super quiet? could a bad mad be my problem? i mean if it was a bad maf it should be able to start right but maybe bog before it shuts off?
thanks guys for the help!