the only thing that I can think of is the cigar lighter does not work. however several people have told me the car has a loose nut behind the wheel. I don't get it.

 

Well I guess I didn't clean the sensor good enough lol still doesnt work. Maybe I'll have to take it apart and see what happens .

 

My driver's side door lock motor is starting to go. I need to repaint my front and rear bumper, and rear passenger side quarter panel needs to be repainted. my temperature adjustment button on the drivers side needs to have the light replaced. Other than that, nothing...yet

 

 

1 - Cracked passenger rear tail light lens - waiting for something to show up on CL to fix.
2 - Sunvisors make a gawdawful noise when moving them and it's hot out - no fix planned (been that way for many years).
3 - Parking sensor in front bumper broken, had to disable the system (will fix it when the bumper takes a few more hits). Damn construction truck debris flew out of the back and hit the front of the car while my wife was driving. She let the guy drive off without having him give her his info. I was like "WTF"?! You let him skate scot-free?!

That's it.

 

2002 UL
Had the two right side air struts fail (converted the car to coils and shocks, and it drives like a new car)
Replaced a small fuel line ($300 at dealer)
Replaced radiator two weeks ago
Steering column motor makes noise when it's warm outside, so I assume it is failing.

Other than the above, it's been maintenance for a 16 year old car with 106,000. I just bought a new car, but I am struggling about selling the UL. It still drives like a new car. Decision is whether to sell the new car (not new.....2015 Porsche Cayenne Diesel with 21,000 miles and 8 years of warranty. Met a guy yesterday who bought a 2014 Cayenne Diesel and now has 146,000 miles with no repairs). I am considering selling the Cayenne and keeping the LS.

 

98 Lexus LS 400...check engine light...anyone with problem or fix? (400,000 plus Miles)

 

Step 1: Buy $10-$15 code reader on Amazon or eBay. You can get a bluetooth one now that syncs to a phone app.

Step 2: Write down code/codes being thrown

Step 3: Research what the code means

Without the codes, can't help.

 

Not a bad commute car, eh? I'm only doing 24 miles but it can take 1 1/2 hrs, probably 70 min. on avg. Do you do the trans yourself? Having just done my wife's SUV, I feel "into it," just that I saw the indie do it, I've read the threads here, and I really don't want to f it up! lol esp. with the proper level.

I decided upon 6,500 for synth motor oil with a WIX XP.....feel sure it could go further, but decided upon 65...

 

On my ML 05 not much has gone wrong.

One tab on the cup holder (replaced with new part)
mirrors don't flip down in reverse (need the switch)
hood struts (replaced already)
front corner marker bulbs were both burned out (easy fix)
rear door weather seals torn (fixed with new)
sub-woofer surround is blown (needs fixed)
grey parking brake handle turned yellow (same with the button for the sunglass holder) (bought new needs installed)


My now gone base 05 had the same problems less the mirrors and sub plus:
tilt/telescope working when it felt like it
kid of previous owner destroyed the rear sunshade (I fixed literally 2 months before the car was totaled)


Overall pretty amazing durability on these cars.

 

Needs motor/trans motors (scheduled)
Telescope is non op (don't need)
Headlights auto level but don't swivel (don't need)

DF #3 is scheduled. Just had the alignment done and Michelins road force balanced. It's the first time I've had the tires done this way. The shop spent more than a hour getting it right. Showed me the specs. Car is now super smooth on the freeway. Paid 90 (vs approx 275 at Lex dealer).

 

'05 LS430 at 112,000 miles . I/m third owner. Serviced at Lexus dealer by the book for first 12 years. No issues, everything still works.
I pulled the fuse for the tilt/telescoping steering column as I don't really need or like that feature and prevent a future failure. Also did an alignment of all 4 wheels as tire wear was a little uneven. Planning on a DIY transmission drain/fill and spark plug change at 120,000.

 

Well, I put in foulers for the p0420 and p0430 codes, cleared the codes and everything was fine until j got a CEL again, but with only p0420 not p0430.

so it looks like I'll eventually replace the cats. With what, I don't know yet.

 

I tried to do just the motor swap on my GS doors and ended up not having any luck. I couldn't get the worm screw back on the shaft properly. I would try to tap it down onto the shaft and eventually the shaft would go through the bottom of the motor. Since you get 4 motors I would try again and went through 3 motors with no luck.

I end up biting the bullet and buying the actuators rebuilt off of eBay. IMO, well worth going that route to save myself the headache and frustration. Replacing just the motors is a super cheap way to do it but my time and sanity is worth the extra money of the actuator without getting bent over by the dealer. Go price the a dealer or even an indie replacement.

Look at something like this. I'm pretty sure this is the guy I got mine from. Well worth it to me and they have been working great. Also, the door actuators I took out had obviously been replaced before because they had the electrical tape wrapped around them to help hold them shut. When I compared the actuators I took out of the car to the ones I got off eBay it again affirmed I made the right choice for myself to get them already rebuilt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-LS430...RUlZBH&vxp=mtr

 

Looks like the guy has done pretty well for himself judging by how many of these things he's sold in the last year. He is pretty shrewd in demanding that the core gets sent back before he grants the lifetime warranty...