So I was told today while fixing a flat tire that my rear struts were leaking by the local tire store, and they gave me a quote. I think I prefer to have an Indy or the dealer do the replacement. I called the dealer and ask about replacing them with the Sport struts and got the deer in the headlights response from the service writer. Not that I have to have the Sport struts, just something that seems like perhaps a small upgrade while doing needed repairs.??

Any suggestions on which way would be the best way to go having the rear struts replaced?

 

If I understand it, it's a medium job and time to do the rear subwoofer at the same time? Also, I think sport shocks are cheaper. I would likely have my indie do it, although it was a simple job on my Maxima when I had access to a lift. I think it is a little more involved with the LS430.

 

Why, do it yourself of course. RKW77080 made a great thread, https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...del-ls430.html

As far as pricing,
Standard rear shock $190.53 each
Sport Rear shock $199.34 each

This is from the good folks at Bell Lexus on eBay. You can search for SPORT and see some people have 'upgraded' to the sport spec struts, but without SPORT or aftermarket springs, it's a waste of $8.81 per corner in my book. I'm about to do this job on my LS and while I prefer OEM for everything, I'm going to use the KYB rears that are about $90 a piece from RockAuto. I was initially going to do the SPORT shocks with Tanabe springs, but meh... the stock ride is so compliant, I'll just firm it up with a new rear sway bar and be happy.

Good luck!

 

Shoot I see I asked what mileage on that thread, and someone said 95k...dang I'm already at 103k and if mine are leaking, no passing state inspection....DOH

 

My driver side is leaking at 78k when I first noticed it. Seems like a common failure point on these cars, especially as they get older.

 

I better take a closer look when I do the rear brakes...I don't feel I would tackle it DIY, so would have to line up the indie. It's funny, I didn't remember compressing the springs on the Maxima in the rears, but I googled and would have had to. Do remember compressing the fronts...

 

It's def not an easy job. Not impossible but you need to know what you are doing. RKW's thread is excellent and a wealth of info but at the end of the day you are still separating ball joints and compressing coil springs. The ball joint bolt is tucked away on the back side of the carrier assembly where there's barely enough room for a closed end wrench. You can't get a ratchet or breaker bar in there and don't even think about an impact gun. If you don't have a VERY LONG closed end 19mm wrench for leverage that bolt is not moving.

 

Agreed. This is not a DIY job. The fronts are somewhat more feasible to do but the rears are certainly a job that should be handled by professionals. Good luck and let us know how you make out. PS....my fronts were replaced a few years ago but I still have my original rears at 135,000 miles. Crossing my fingers.

 

Unless you have the right tools and know how, leave it to the indi. The change over from airsuspension to coilover on all 4 points were 5 hrs to do it on an UL

 

 

Viper where were you a year ago when I did mine?!? I just followed RKW's thread to the letter but your tip would have def helped...

Seriously tho you should plug that tip into RKW's thread for any one looking for info on this in the future.

 

Agreed 100%...

I documented my DIY that followed the procedures outlined on the LS430 repair manual. The posting has since received many feedback on tips and tricks to make the repair more efficient - this is what I love about this forum - exchange of ideas and knowledge.

Please feel free to add any related experience to the original post to help others. Llike Viper, a couple of people shared that they were able to replace the rear struts without disconnecting the ball joint. For example, on Post #24, a poster cut away some of the wheel-well liner and inserted the spring compressor to compress the spring before removing the strut; on Post #26, another poster used some 2x4 lumber as leverage to manipulate the suspension parts to free the strut.

Disconnecting the ball joint is not difficult with the correct tools (borrowed from AutoZone), and reinstalling the ball joint is just as easy with the help of the standard LS430 jack. But, there are alternatives!

 

I can definitely post some tips to add on the other thread, I have some pics to upload as well to show and tell but have never done and when I select upload I don't see them so will keep trying. When I hear people cutting a way to get the job done that makes me cringe, it's not necessary

 

 

Viper - from where did you borrow that tool? Definitely looks better and more efficient than my two-piece compressor setup!

Thanks!

Jeff