terminater

Good morning!
The other day while sitting in slow traffic I noticed my LS starting to overheat per the needle gauge. I assumed it was just due to the hot weather and sitting still for so long. This morning, however, it began to overheat again! It got really close to the top mark before I turned off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes. This is not a gradual build up- once the engine is in normal temp - it gets near the top red mark within a minute while idling. The car has 217k miles on it now, and the water pump was not replaced when they changed the TB last at 143k (previous owner had the work done).

I haven't had much time to play with it, but here is what i've noticed thus far:
I can barely see any standing water/coolant when I open the reservoir.
The fans appear to be functioning normally.
I turned on the heat while it was overheating and it only starting to blow warm after I started cruising, (it was blowing cool while idling).
The AC has been running and working fine, I've noticed two puddles building up under the car. The passenger side puddle is much bigger than the driver side puddle. These puddles are pooling up under the car near the front seats. Is this normal AC condensation operation or might I have a leak? Neither puddle did not smell/look like coolant.

Action plan:
I'm thinking to start with a new thermostat/gasket.
Recheck coolant level again at home.
Possibly new radiator ( no apparent leakage)

Can anyone else give me something else to try if above may not work?

Thanks in advance!

Johnhav430

FYI, when I purchased my car used, there was no coolant in the reservoir, and even low in the radiator. The temp was not hot in any way, so even with low coolant, from observation, the car did not run hot....the needle has always been in the same position.

The thermostat wouldn't be a bad idea as it's mechanical....just trying to mention that even low coolant didn't have any effect on my temp....I would say don't tempt fate by letting it get hot repeatedly....good luck and let us know!

2KHarrier

A/C running will cause water condensate to collect on the ground under the car. That is normal. What isn't normal is low coolant in the engine. Low coolant will certainly effect the temperature of the engine. You don't feel heat until you're moving because the coolant is not sufficient to flow through all the hoses until the water pump is spinning faster at driving speeds (higher RPM). I would immediately put coolant in that engine before you do anything else. Then and only THEN start investigating why it was low. I would also start looking at having the Water pump (and timing belt) changed, since it may be the culprit that's leaking.

terminater

Thanks for the tips fellas. I may not have a choice but to drive it home after work, but I will keep a close eye on the temp gauge.

As luck would have it, I sold my second car over the weekend! I will bum the wife's van and run to the part store.

BradTank

You probably need a new radiator. It's pretty common with the age of the car.

If you have lost enough coolant to where you can't see the level when you open the cap, you have a leak somewhere. The thermostat is unlikely to have anything to do with it unless you see some sort of leak from that spot.

I bet if you pull the plastic shrouding away on top of the radiator away and inspect closely with a flashlight away you'll see pink crusty trails.

jayclapp

I certainly wouldn't drive the car as it overheats rapidly. I'd have it towed. That's much cheaper than taking a risk and losing the engine.

Johnhav430

As inconvenient as it is, I agree, I think I'd prefer not to let it get hot again....I would use AAA Plus myself.....

But maybe if you can confirm the coolant is low, get a gallon of Zerex Asian from Walmart for $8-$12, and pour it right into the radiator, then fill up the reservoir (it's 50/50). check for leaks....

fyi the plastic clips (screws) on the side of the air intake covering the radiator are

90467-08155

in case you need to replace them (2), and the other ones under the hood are

90467-09087-22 (I ordered 30 of these @ $0.70 since the local dealers never seem to have more than a few on hand....)

terminater

I called my local parts store and the guy suggested the fans may be going out since it heats up so rapidly when idling and it helps when I start to drive. Is this a common problem on these cars? The search function didnt pull up too many results.

BradTank

No, its not a common problem at all.
But there's plenty of people here that have radiators leaking that required replacement.

Cars simply run hotter when they are aren't moving because it has less airflow through the radiator.

If you're missing a good amount of coolant, that' where I would start. You have a leak somewhere. If you can't see any yourself, have a shop do something like a pressure test. It's either a hose or the radiator. Worse case scenario would be something like a head gasket which can happen when you run it as its overheating.

My advice is don't drive it until its fixed. Have it towed to a shop if your temp gauge is going high. A $100 radiator could cost you a new motor if you drive while its overheating.

2013FSport

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind that the tiniest of pin hole leaks in a coolant system renders the coolant reservoir inoperable. The radiator cap relies on the the coolant system forming a vacuum to suck coolant from the reservoir as the block cools. If there are any leaks at all, a vacuum never forms, the block can run out of coolant and the reservoir can remain full while the engine is being subject to overheating as it is low on coolant.

Bottom line; if you have coolant leaks check the coolant level of both reservoir and the engine block itself. The later getting complex on some modern vehicles but in short you are looking for the highest check point that coolant can be seen.

For now, adding water is better than norhing before the engine is destroyed.
PS with a warm engine a simple test to know if it is under pressure and risk of hot fluid spraying out is to squeeze a soft section of hose. If it collapses essy, its likely not under pressure. If it doesn't, use extreme caution opening the high pressure cap.

edit: This includes a deffective radiator cap. It may not leak externally to the outside but if the inner seal leaks, not holding pressure it can force coolant into the reservoir but not pull coolant back as the engine cools. Keeping in mind that the only time (short of manual intervention) that the block is filled is when the engine cools.

terminater

Alright, cue the biggest idiot of the world award to me! I went to inspect my car again during lunch and what I previously thought was coolant in the reservoir was actually the windshield wiper fluid reservoir.
I removed the air intake shroud and found the actual coolant reservoir - bone dry!!! I peered into the radiator as well and did not see any coolant. I bummed a coworkers truck and bought some Zerex coolant, thermostat and the gasket at Advance. I will replenish the coolant and start looking for a possible leak. I have never noticed any coolant leaking or haven't smelled any. Perhaps it just all evaporated over time? Regardless, I will report back as I find out more information.

Johnhav430

For sure it can evaporate, mine has not lost anything since being refilled by me, and then having it drained/refilled, then timing belt job (3 actions). Imho it is neglected because of the intake removal, and also it's sllc2 aka super long life I think maybe 10/150. Hopefully you don't have a leak afterall...

Gronemus

In order for the coolant to evaporate it needs to be exposed to the atmosphere. That isn't a standard feature in this car nor any others that I know of.

Once you get both the radiator and the overflow bottle refilled I'd take it for a good long ride and once you're done, open the hood and see if you've got any pressure in the hoses. If you don't, you've got a small leak somewhere. Looks like you've dodged a bullet here. Let us know what you find out...

BradTank

It can't evaporate that much like the OP is describing.

I can understand say the coolant overflow reservoir being a bit low after several years, but if the overflow is completely empty and you can't even see the level inside the radiator itself after opening it, you have a leak somewhere.

Johnhav430

My reservoir was empty, and the radiator was down. I estimate that nobody touched it in 11 yrs. The last service was Feb 3 when the timing belt was done and coolant replaced, and haven't lost any coolant. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it for myself. I was thinking blown head gaskets at the time, which would have been under warranty of the sale...