What service items would you do immediately?
05-28-17, 07:38 AM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
What service items would you do immediately?
As a posted in another thread, I recently picked up a 2004 LS430 ML with almost 21,000 miles on it. Nothing but oils changes and tire services have been done. I'll probably drop it off at the dealer and get them to recommend. Timing belt is probably a given considering the age. What else would you consider a must to be done immediately?
05-28-17, 09:18 AM
#2
As a posted in another thread, I recently picked up a 2004 LS430 ML with almost 21,000 miles on it. Nothing but oils changes and tire services have been done. I'll probably drop it off at the dealer and get them to recommend. Timing belt is probably a given considering the age. What else would you consider a must to be done immediately?
- Oil + filter change. Even though it might have been done recently, I'd want the change done on 'my schedule'. I'd do the work myself.
- Wiper blade/insert change. Who knows how good/bad the wipers are? Easy & inexpensive changeout. I'd do the work myself.
- Rear differential oil change. Another inexpensive fluid change even done at dealer. Probably less than $90?
- Brake fluid change. I would do this since the brake oil absorbs moisture. Another easy DIY if you take your time and buy a large bottle of DOT3 fluid & clear plastic tubing, etc. I'd do the work myself.
- Antifreeze/coolant change. Fluid probably is OK even for being 13 years old, but while dealer is doing rear diff, I'd have them do this. Guessing less than $200?
- Engine air filter and cabin air filter. Again, they might have been done recently, but I'd want the change done on 'my schedule'. I'd do the work myself. (do not worry about the under seat air filters. They run $15-20 each and do not get/show much dirt, and there's absolutely no perceivable difference when changed.)
- Tire rotation. Unless you have documentation of a rotation within the last 5k miles, I would do this work myself.
- Disconnect battery cables for 10 minutes. You might want to consider doing this and shorting them together (hold pos cable to neg cable ONLY when they're both disconnected from the battery, to eliminate the prior owner's driving style & shift points, etc, from the ECU's memory.
- Check the air pressure in the full size spare tire in the trunk! You want to ensure 1), the spare is there, and 2), it's full of air! (32 PSI)
The rest of my list are my OCD items that I would personally do---but tI believe this is a good list to build from. The list will probably differ if you're having the dealer do all your maintenance items. Are you willing/able to do the routine items like oil & filters at your house or you will have dealer even do them?
05-28-17, 10:17 AM
#3
Moderator
In regards to #7 on LS's list, I would skip the tire rotation and replace those tires, if they are original. 13 year old tires are probably not the best thing to be driving on... The TB and water pump are probably fine, but again, they're 13 years old...
05-28-17, 12:31 PM
#4
I personally, would do-----
The rest of my list are my OCD items that I would personally do---but tI believe this is a good list to build from. The list will probably differ if you're having the dealer do all your maintenance items. Are you willing/able to do the routine items like oil & filters at your house or you will have dealer even do them?
- Oil + filter change. Even though it might have been done recently, I'd want the change done on 'my schedule'. I'd do the work myself.
- Wiper blade/insert change. Who knows how good/bad the wipers are? Easy & inexpensive changeout. I'd do the work myself.
- Rear differential oil change. Another inexpensive fluid change even done at dealer. Probably less than $90?
- Brake fluid change. I would do this since the brake oil absorbs moisture. Another easy DIY if you take your time and buy a large bottle of DOT3 fluid & clear plastic tubing, etc. I'd do the work myself.
- Antifreeze/coolant change. Fluid probably is OK even for being 13 years old, but while dealer is doing rear diff, I'd have them do this. Guessing less than $200?
- Engine air filter and cabin air filter. Again, they might have been done recently, but I'd want the change done on 'my schedule'. I'd do the work myself. (do not worry about the under seat air filters. They run $15-20 each and do not get/show much dirt, and there's absolutely no perceivable difference when changed.)
- Tire rotation. Unless you have documentation of a rotation within the last 5k miles, I would do this work myself.
- Disconnect battery cables for 10 minutes. You might want to consider doing this and shorting them together (hold pos cable to neg cable ONLY when they're both disconnected from the battery, to eliminate the prior owner's driving style & shift points, etc, from the ECU's memory.
- Check the air pressure in the full size spare tire in the trunk! You want to ensure 1), the spare is there, and 2), it's full of air! (32 PSI)
The rest of my list are my OCD items that I would personally do---but tI believe this is a good list to build from. The list will probably differ if you're having the dealer do all your maintenance items. Are you willing/able to do the routine items like oil & filters at your house or you will have dealer even do them?
2. Wiper blades. Try them out and see how they work. You be able to easily tell whether or not they really need to be changed.
3. Rear differential oil. With only 20k on the odometer it doesn't need to be changed.
4. Brake fluid. This is one item that I would certainly do if it hasn't been changed in the last 2 years.
5. Antifreeze/coolant. Well if you're doing the timing belt this becomes a no brainer. If not, then testing the pH level with a test strip would at least give you some indication as to how good it is. I would think that the coolant that's in there is likely OK.
6. Engine & Cabin air filters. If they look clean I wouldn't bother changing them.
7. Tire rotation. I like 2KHarrier's comment about tire age. I'd give them a good looking over to see what kind of shape they are in. As far as rotation, I think you need to see what kind of wear there is on each tire to see if it makes sense to rotate them at this time.
8. Disconnect battery cable. I wouldn't bother doing this unless the car was shifting or driving really strange. If I were going to do this, I'd first hook up my Techstream monitor to the car to read the data that was currently stored in the car's memory before it was reset.
9. Air pressure in spare. Good point. I'd do this one.
As far as other items, check the operation of both the hood and the trunk struts although you probably already have...
05-28-17, 12:53 PM
#5
Lexus Fanatic
I personally, would do-----
The rest of my list are my OCD items that I would personally do---but tI believe this is a good list to build from. The list will probably differ if you're having the dealer do all your maintenance items. Are you willing/able to do the routine items like oil & filters at your house or you will have dealer even do them?
- Oil + filter change. Even though it might have been done recently, I'd want the change done on 'my schedule'. I'd do the work myself.
- Wiper blade/insert change. Who knows how good/bad the wipers are? Easy & inexpensive changeout. I'd do the work myself.
- Rear differential oil change. Another inexpensive fluid change even done at dealer. Probably less than $90?
- Brake fluid change. I would do this since the brake oil absorbs moisture. Another easy DIY if you take your time and buy a large bottle of DOT3 fluid & clear plastic tubing, etc. I'd do the work myself.
- Antifreeze/coolant change. Fluid probably is OK even for being 13 years old, but while dealer is doing rear diff, I'd have them do this. Guessing less than $200?
- Engine air filter and cabin air filter. Again, they might have been done recently, but I'd want the change done on 'my schedule'. I'd do the work myself. (do not worry about the under seat air filters. They run $15-20 each and do not get/show much dirt, and there's absolutely no perceivable difference when changed.)
- Tire rotation. Unless you have documentation of a rotation within the last 5k miles, I would do this work myself.
- Disconnect battery cables for 10 minutes. You might want to consider doing this and shorting them together (hold pos cable to neg cable ONLY when they're both disconnected from the battery, to eliminate the prior owner's driving style & shift points, etc, from the ECU's memory.
- Check the air pressure in the full size spare tire in the trunk! You want to ensure 1), the spare is there, and 2), it's full of air! (32 PSI)
The rest of my list are my OCD items that I would personally do---but tI believe this is a good list to build from. The list will probably differ if you're having the dealer do all your maintenance items. Are you willing/able to do the routine items like oil & filters at your house or you will have dealer even do them?
05-28-17, 04:55 PM
#7
Here's a link to my favorite tire seller, regarding when to replace tires. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...nfoTireLife.do
Last edited by LS430inDE.; 05-28-17 at 04:59 PM.
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05-28-17, 05:53 PM
#8
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Excellent point. Check the stamp on the sidewall of the tires to determine the age/when the tires were manufactured. The last group of #'s stamped onto the tire represents the week and the year the tire was made.
Here's a link to my favorite tire seller, regarding when to replace tires. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...nfoTireLife.do
Here's a link to my favorite tire seller, regarding when to replace tires. http://www.discounttiredirect.com/di...nfoTireLife.do
Looks like I'll probably drop another $2500 into the car when you consider tires, timing belt, and fluid changes, but that's about what I expected and I think it will be worth it in the long run.
05-29-17, 06:36 AM
#9
Lexus Fanatic
Didn't mention it before, but I've already ordered a new set of Pirelli P7 AS+. The car had 3 different tires on it. Two were old and 2 were brand new Chinese off brand. My local Discount Tire offered me a $70 credit for the 2 new Chinese tires, and with other factory and Discount Tire rebates, the set was only $614 dollars. I've had the Michelin Premier A/S and P7 AS+ on my silver 430 with 17"s. I think the Premiers are a better all-around tire, but not $200 better, which was the case when I ordered the P7 AS+s yesterday. Both are really good tires, with the Pirelli being the better value.
Looks like I'll probably drop another $2500 into the car when you consider tires, timing belt, and fluid changes, but that's about what I expected and I think it will be worth it in the long run.
Looks like I'll probably drop another $2500 into the car when you consider tires, timing belt, and fluid changes, but that's about what I expected and I think it will be worth it in the long run.
When I bought my car it had 4 Chinese tires on it, the Rydanz Roadster 02's. Again, I cannot simply throw them away, and found they are fine and are much quieter than the Michelin Xi3 snows. Pretty sure this chain called Mavis sells them.
My reservation on the Premier is my wife has them, buddy just got them on the Q5. Seems the compound is tacky and starts at 8.5/32. I used to say, what happened to the other 2.5/32, said let it go due to the 60k warranty, but am kind of back to the where's the other 2.5/32? My wife parks at a friend's house that has a stone end of the driveway. Rocks stick to the tire compound, it's uncanny--she took pics and a video. They literally stick, and if left there say 90 secs, begin falling off from gravity. I'm not there yet but if Pilot Sports are the wrong tire, maybe a DWS.
With the Chinese tires, I never would have imagined this marketing tactic--my spare is new, still has the red dot etc. with a mint rim. The selling dealer actually mounted it on the car when they took the pics for the web, then put it back on the trunk. Car sales is the lowest of the low, although healthcare is close...
05-30-17, 06:11 PM
#10
1. Oil & filter. If just performed, as it likely was, leave it alone until it needs it. Why waste $ and resources for no good reason.
2. Wiper blades. Try them out and see how they work. You be able to easily tell whether or not they really need to be changed.
3. Rear differential oil. With only 20k on the odometer it doesn't need to be changed.
4. Brake fluid. This is one item that I would certainly do if it hasn't been changed in the last 2 years.
5. Antifreeze/coolant. Well if you're doing the timing belt this becomes a no brainer. If not, then testing the pH level with a test strip would at least give you some indication as to how good it is. I would think that the coolant that's in there is likely OK.
6. Engine & Cabin air filters. If they look clean I wouldn't bother changing them.
7. Tire rotation. I like 2KHarrier's comment about tire age. I'd give them a good looking over to see what kind of shape they are in. As far as rotation, I think you need to see what kind of wear there is on each tire to see if it makes sense to rotate them at this time.
8. Disconnect battery cable. I wouldn't bother doing this unless the car was shifting or driving really strange. If I were going to do this, I'd first hook up my Techstream monitor to the car to read the data that was currently stored in the car's memory before it was reset.
9. Air pressure in spare. Good point. I'd do this one.
As far as other items, check the operation of both the hood and the trunk struts although you probably already have...
2. Wiper blades. Try them out and see how they work. You be able to easily tell whether or not they really need to be changed.
3. Rear differential oil. With only 20k on the odometer it doesn't need to be changed.
4. Brake fluid. This is one item that I would certainly do if it hasn't been changed in the last 2 years.
5. Antifreeze/coolant. Well if you're doing the timing belt this becomes a no brainer. If not, then testing the pH level with a test strip would at least give you some indication as to how good it is. I would think that the coolant that's in there is likely OK.
6. Engine & Cabin air filters. If they look clean I wouldn't bother changing them.
7. Tire rotation. I like 2KHarrier's comment about tire age. I'd give them a good looking over to see what kind of shape they are in. As far as rotation, I think you need to see what kind of wear there is on each tire to see if it makes sense to rotate them at this time.
8. Disconnect battery cable. I wouldn't bother doing this unless the car was shifting or driving really strange. If I were going to do this, I'd first hook up my Techstream monitor to the car to read the data that was currently stored in the car's memory before it was reset.
9. Air pressure in spare. Good point. I'd do this one.
As far as other items, check the operation of both the hood and the trunk struts although you probably already have...
Looks as if Bertoli has the same concept. The olive oil in my pantry has a shelf life/expiration date too!
Last edited by LS430inDE.; 05-30-17 at 06:15 PM.
05-30-17, 08:53 PM
#11
I still stand by my #3 changing the 13 year old rear diff oil --- the gear oil is made from petroleum, isn't it? Oil based products have a finite life regardless how much it's been used. The concept is similar when discussing tires. There could be 20k miles of tread left on the tires, but if they're older than x years old, they should be replaced. Why? They're made from rubber/petroleum, which breaks down and degrades over time, regardless how much they've been used. Same concept for liquid oil, remember the 3 months/3k miles rule of thumb? (I know it's not as relevant a "rule" now with oil sensors, etc, but you wouldn't keep 13 year old motor oil in your block, would you?)
Looks as if Bertoli has the same concept. The olive oil in my pantry has a shelf life/expiration date too!
Looks as if Bertoli has the same concept. The olive oil in my pantry has a shelf life/expiration date too!
Even though I said that it wasn't needed and I still think that, I too suffer from automotive OCD and admit that I probably would change it if it were my car only because I can do it myself which makes the cost very minimal.
So there, you win...
05-31-17, 03:12 PM
#13
Moderator
I'd change the diff fluid just because its been in there for 12 years. It is something I plan to do in my 2004 SC430 (30k miles) in the next month or two. I will report back on condition. I have changed diff fluid on my LS430 (where it is much easier to access) at 30 and 80 k miles.
On any car we own I would change out tires that were any older than 7 years regardless of miles on them.
On any car we own I would change out tires that were any older than 7 years regardless of miles on them.
06-02-17, 04:24 PM
#15
Pole Position
Don't know if anyone has mentioned it but a 13 year old car could probably use a timing belt regardless of the low mileage, right? Timing belts are generally 7 year 100,000 mile replacement items. It'd be a shame to buy a car with such low mileage, change all these fluids and then have that belt snap on you because the rubber has deteriorated on that belt. Game over. Personally that's something I'd always be thinking about as I drove that car...I know it has low mileage, but is that belt about to snap underneath that timing cover? Is the belt in good shape or is true that the belt material breaks down with age? Am I going to ruin my engine? When's it going to happen? Is it going to happen? Did I mention that I suffer from anxiety? 