By the way....why won't she stay running with the airbox/resonator & plumbing removed?

 

One of the codes is P0354, Ignition Coil D Primary/Secondary Circuit. I believe there's a second code, but can't figure out how to view the next fault! (I erased the P0354 code and it came back 5 seconds later.)

 

So I'm reading more about my demise, and I understand P0354 could indicate a faulty coil on cylinder #4?

Does anyone know for SURE how the cylinders are numbered on our LS's?

 

This should help with the layout... http://tinyurl.com/hlpdzaj

Can't help with your first question though. I would look carefully at the wires though. I doubt that the COP went bad on you...

 

According to your Code reader's manual do the following...

If more than one DTC was retrieved, press and release the DTC/FF button, as necessary.

 

AMAZING! Look what I found when I tugged on the #4 harness connecting to the COP!........... (Not sure why such a lame pic with my iphone 5s)

I just pulled the wire out and stripped some insulation so more copper wire is showing. I pushed into the connector to fully seat, and applied some super glue to that wire where it enters the harness. After posting this, I'm sure it will be dry. STAY TUNED!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Super glue won't hold and pushing the wire in won't let the wire make consistent contact. Trust me, I tried it. lol

You will need to buy another Coil on Plug wiring harness like I did.

 

She's fixed!!!!!!!!!!!! As tradosauru just mentioned, the superglue didn't hold. Not only that, but apparently the wire wasn't making contact inside the connector. I started after I thought I fixed it but still running rough and still throwing the same code.

What to do now??? How about a little ALUMINUM FOIL + a wooden match + some super glue?

What I just did was take about an inch square piece of aluminum foil and carefully fold and roll it into a cylinder shape, then placed it in the harness's shell. (I had to pull out the light blue rubber boot inside the harness.) So then with the wire stripped, I threaded the aluminum tubing, then with my wooden match folded over the top of the aluminum foil and push the contraption all the way down into that 1 tube of the harness. Like a cherry on top, I placed a dab of superglue (hopefully superglue doesn't conduct, lol), then when dry, pushed the connector on the COP.

I said a prayer and started her up, and VOILA!!!!!!!!!! RUNS SMOOTH AS BEFORE (lol), AND NO CODES AFTER I ERASED THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!

ABSOLUTELY AMAZING!!!! Thank you so much guys. The car is idling in the driveway right now. I'll be back after I cleanup the garage. In the meantime, here's a couple pictures.......

 

Not sure how long my contraption will hold up, but she's running smooth as before right now. What's the chances you still have a part #? I will purchase one no doubt, or even 2 tonight, just to have on hand.

 

Part # for the connector is 90980-11885. Do a search on Amazon.com - many offerings to choose from.

 

I bought one on Ebay. Probably wouldn't hurt to have another as a backup since it takes about 4 days for delivery.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-x-Connecto...tV~JIm&vxp=mtr

I used electrical shrink tube after soldering the connections.

 

A belated THANK YOU so much, Gronemus. I did as you described and it simply showed the 2/2 fault as the same code.

This case is CLOSED as far as I'm concerned. I will be buying several of the wiring harnesses and connectors that RKW posted.

Question related to those replacement parts---- I'm guessing when you go to replace one, you'd cut the connector off, then reconnect/solder/heatshrink/etc the car's wires to the new connector's wires, ensuring you do them in the correct order, then simply connect to the COP?

Absolutely amazing this forum is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Glad to hear you got her fixed. Those wires must get fragile with age since a few had your same issue when changing plugs.

 

The problem is that the wires in the harness were not designed to be tugged on when trying to remove the connector off of the COP. The issue is compounded when the connector hasn't been removed for 10 or more years making it difficult to remove. I am planning on changing out my plugs this week and will be extra careful going in now that I see what can happen if I'm not patient...

 

So........from my experience on dealing with these connectors, I was using all my strength to squeeze and tug and place a standard/flatblade screwdriver under the connector, then twist the screwdriver to help assist push the connector up and off the COP. The tips of my fingers were nearly bleeding by the end of the night.

On plug #8, I finally wised up and used a short/stubby Vice-Grip as shown here. You can perfectly adjust the grasp to gently yet securely grip and squeeze the connector, then you simply pull straight up! I should have done that from the beginning. It might have saved me all this heartache. I know it would have prevented nearly getting blood blisters on both of my thumbtips!