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Leaking from antifreeze overflow cap???

Old Oct 19, 2016 | 06:27 PM
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Default Leaking from antifreeze overflow cap???

I did a search on this and it didnt come up very clearly. I am seeing antifreeze residue on the outside of the overflow tank....I have cleaned this area and it appears the stains are back. Is this common? I read posts regarding replacing radiator but I am hoping this is coming from my overflow tank. Have any of you just replaced the cap on the overflow tank with any success.....or should I be looking for other signs? My car does not over heat.
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Old Oct 19, 2016 | 09:18 PM
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I have had some minor staining/accumulation of pink crud around the overflow reservoir cap. Maybe some fluid escapes on very warm days when super hot coolant is flowing back into the reservoir and becomes depressurized. Also happens on our Toyota Highlander. No significant loss of coolant over time, but I do keep an eye on levels and check every 6 months topping off with a couple of ounces of coolant if required.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 01:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jabberwock
I have had some minor staining/accumulation of pink crud around the overflow reservoir cap. Maybe some fluid escapes on very warm days when super hot coolant is flowing back into the reservoir and becomes depressurized. Also happens on our Toyota Highlander. No significant loss of coolant over time, but I do keep an eye on levels and check every 6 months topping off with a couple of ounces of coolant if required.
Very common and most LS430 owners have this spotting around the top as well as sides of the reservoir without even knowing it. Over time, there will be some minor coolant loss so checking the level periodically is a good idea.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 05:18 AM
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On this topic, is there residue even when your level is proper, i.e. at full when cold? I added some when I got this car almost 3 wks ago, and the level dropped a little the next day, topped again, and has been the same ever since.

I'm getting mine changed on Sat at a dealer (randomly selected on the web lol)...I dunno what the charge is, but they have a 20% off coupon for new customers, so whatever it is I'm sure I can live with it. I researched it and it seems like 100% Toyota pink coolant is like $26? All the local stuff is 50/50 and in the $12-$15 ballpark (Zerex, Pentowhosamacallit A4). I really think at times marketing has been able to fleece consumers, like orange juice going from 64 to 59 oz, mayonnaise from 32 to 30 oz, but taking coolant and diluting it to 50% and charging 15% less, that is awesome! Anyway one of those things, I know one cannot truly get it all out, and their machine has a better shot of getting more out....

Last edited by Johnhav430; Oct 20, 2016 at 05:23 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jabberwock
I have had some minor staining/accumulation of pink crud around the overflow reservoir cap. Maybe some fluid escapes on very warm days when super hot coolant is flowing back into the reservoir and becomes depressurized. Also happens on our Toyota Highlander. No significant loss of coolant over time, but I do keep an eye on levels and check every 6 months topping off with a couple of ounces of coolant if required.
Overkill, but I've been checking my fluids daily...had the car just under 3 wks, and will back off at some point....(nothing changes lol)

I've never purchased 50/50 mix until now, because I could not find any Asian coolant (red or pink) that was 100% (I'm sure the dealer has it). Why I feel that 50/50 is not necessary, is that anybody can buy distilled water at Walmart, and if need be, eyeball or even measure 50/50. Also, there is no harm in going up to 70% (beyond is detrimental, me and my buddy used to argue with his dad who ran 100% lol, hey, we took physics), so topping off with 100% is likely to take the car from 50/50 to 55/45 (say it was down 1 qt. and refilled with 100%)....
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 07:03 AM
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Thanks for the replies.......makes me feel a little more confident. I will come up with a way to seal the cap....and or buy a new one.....its just a cheap plastic cap so I am not sure a new one would help much. When I had my timing belt done the dealer of course used the pink stuff.......my feeling is that you only change it every few years....might as well go with OEM
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by jpv7774
Thanks for the replies.......makes me feel a little more confident. I will come up with a way to seal the cap....and or buy a new one.....its just a cheap plastic cap so I am not sure a new one would help much. When I had my timing belt done the dealer of course used the pink stuff.......my feeling is that you only change it every few years....might as well go with OEM
From what I understand, our reservoir is not pressurized (only my BMW's is as far as I know since the cap literally screws on tightly), so I don't think the seal is critical....I just would not want to see the level going down, and also see residue....as long as the level doesn't change, I think you're good!

I did more research online, and found that Toyota super long life is supposed to be changed 100k the first time, and 50k thereafter...imho there is also a common sense element, I would be ok changing it every 2-3 years (this could easily be 50k for many), it's all labor and plus I feel the machine is the only very good way to do it. I personally have replaced a radiator and had to burp the system, but have never undid drains on the block, I would hate to have something happen. Actually, on my then 16 y.o. Maxima, the drain petcock would not open, and being plastic, it stripped.....dunno how easily the LS's would open....
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jpv7774
Thanks for the replies.......makes me feel a little more confident. I will come up with a way to seal the cap....and or buy a new one.....its just a cheap plastic cap so I am not sure a new one would help much. When I had my timing belt done the dealer of course used the pink stuff.......my feeling is that you only change it every few years....might as well go with OEM
No need to change the reservoir cap unless it's obviously cracked. The coolant residue that accumulates around the cap is normal (especially in the hot months), as the fluid in the reservoir can get quite hot, and not being under any pressure in the reservoir, tends to evaporate a bit around the edge of the cap.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 11:58 AM
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I had the same problem on my 2001 LS430. There were hairline cracks in the top of the radiator tank that pressurized steam was exiting and leaving the pink residue of antifreeze. I had to get my radiator replaced and had the hoses replaced as well.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by PCW
I had the same problem on my 2001 LS430. There were hairline cracks in the top of the radiator tank that pressurized steam was exiting and leaving the pink residue of antifreeze. I had to get my radiator replaced and had the hoses replaced as well.
Owned my 2001 LS430 for almost 7 years and have had the staining and spotting on my coolant reserve tank since the start. My radiator did split the regular upper seam which was replaced last year......Reservoir still gets the staining and white spotting .... no worries....I just keep checking the level which needs a few ounces each year. Normal for our LS430s.
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Old Oct 20, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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Roger that.....just drives me crazy to have a spotless car and engine bay only to see this little mystery mess from time to time. I can live with the stains...would be easier to sleep at night if the car wasnt known to have radiator issues....reservoir no problem........radiator could eat into my wallet.....no thats a problem.
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jpv7774
Roger that.....just drives me crazy to have a spotless car and engine bay only to see this little mystery mess from time to time. I can live with the stains...would be easier to sleep at night if the car wasnt known to have radiator issues....reservoir no problem........radiator could eat into my wallet.....no thats a problem.
Depending upon your mileage, yes the LS430 is known for the radiator to fail. Usually it's the seam on the top that separates. Mine started really leaking badly at around 120,000 miles but it might have started earlier. I noticed that Rock Auto had the Denso radiator for a little over $100. I don't do any work myself so I had Lexus do it for me but specified a Denso radiator only. The OEM was hundreds more but pretty much identical to the Denso. Unfortunately, my new radiator was defective after 9 months and I had to replace it again at Lexus for no charge. It cost me a little under $500. I've learned to live with the reservoir staining on top as well as some on the sides. After all my car is 16 years old and is not going to be perfect!
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 06:26 PM
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Ha......well I have a bit of OCD and strive for perfection

My car is an 04 with 140k on it.....I am hoping that many many radiators on LSs have stood the test of time....fingers crossed
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 06:32 PM
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I just checked mine after work, and as careful as I was, the screw dropped down (for the plastic intake piece). Yep, like the BMW, you can see what was dropped, but a human hand cannot fit. Did not panic, made a contraption with duct tape and lowered it down to grab it. Double stick tape would have worked, the duct tape was barely tacky enough. But I see the plastic seems to be spread too much already....maybe they should be used once only and replaced, dunno. Just wanted to have a close look before the dealer flushes it tomorrow.
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