This will be thrid brake job. Plan on Lexus pads. No vibration from rotors should I replace em with this many miles? Thanks NCAA tonight

 

I have 89K on my original rotors and they still look new. If your rotors look good, I would just clean them up and slap on new pads.

 

Thanks neighbor To bad Bucky not in final 4

 

If they are still within operational thickness, keep going. The ones on the 400 have 206K on the original rotors. YMMV obviously.

 

I have run the Centric treated rotors and will prolly get them the more I think of it for 80 bucks for fronts to my door. When I let the LS sit the rotors get rusty and sound feel gravely for a mile or so. If anyone has the Centric does the electro plating prevent this or is it jsut effective on the area not contacvted by pads/ Tom57?

 

If you're not getting any vibration, I would just slap new pads on it.

But some people are more **** about that sort of thing; that a brake job needs to be 100% complete with either new or turned rotors, new pads, new shims, new mounting bolts, brakes flushed and bled, etc. But I've only put new pads on in certain situations and never had any problems.



The plating is only for where the rotor mounts to the hub, it keeps them from getting stuck together from corrosion. It's also just keeps that area looking clean and not brown from the rust.

It's a nice bonus, but I've never had an issue with that where I live.

I've had good luck with Centric Premium rotors and Wagner Thermoquiet ceramic pads.

 

You should have the disc's thickness measured to make sure it's still in spec. A great deal of the brake's function involves the disc's mass. If it's too thin you are asking for problems.

 

+1 - exactly right.

Not sure how much the LS430 rotor wears over time, depends on previous pads and overall use, environment, etc. I'd guess. If I was replacing my pads at over 100k miles on the rotors I'd most likely have the rotor thickness checked just to be safe.

 

Hey Warm, I have the Centric treated premium rotors on our Sienna. Agree with you they are a fine rotor. (In fact, I've seen seen Centric rotor boxes at Lexus dealer in the Parts Dept.)

The electro plating on the Centric premium rotors is on the hub of the rotor only. The rust that you refer to after the vehicle sits awhile on the rotor surface where the pad contacts is inevitable. The brake pads rub the rust off anyway. That happens even with so-called "dealer" rotors (that may in fact be Centric rotors).

 

Never even thought about that, always just thought if you were getting uneven break pressure from the rotor being warped you should replace them. Thanks for the insight.

 

Measuring thickness is only good for knowing how much life you have left. LS430 spec is 30mm standard thickness, 28mm minimum.

For diagnosing vibration, you should measure disc thickness VARIATION (DTV) at several points on the disc, using a micrometer at 8 different places around the diameter of the disc, about 10mm from the outer edge. DTV is measured by subtracting the smallest thickness measurement from the largest. Anything greater than 0.0008" (0.02mm) means the rotor needs resurfacing or replacing. Rusted portions of the disc wear at a different rate than non-corroded areas, resulting in excessive DTV. Prevent rust by keeping your rotors salt-free and don't leave your car unused for weeks/months at a time.

While you are at it, measuring the other primary cause of vibration - lateral runout - using a clamp-on-frame dial gauge such as https://www.accusizetools.com/0510-0...ll-joint-gage/. Poor mating of the disc to the hub can cause excessive runout, as can excessive and/or uneven torque when installing lugnuts.

2001-2003 LS430 runout spec for Europe/GCC/Australia is 0.02mm maximum, 0.05mm max for outside of those areas ie. US and Canada. 2004-2005 spec is 0.05mm max regardless of location.

When my odometer hit 85000km, I replaced my front rotors with OEM due to vibration. When my odometer hit 138000km, I replaced my rear rotors with Raybestos Advanced Techonology due to vibration, choosing this rotor because 1) they publish manufacturing specifications, unlike most other brands, 2) the manufacturing tolerances/standards are better than what anyone else claims.

Don't forget when you install new rotors, measure runout (which will caused by the hub if there is any at all) and install the rotor on the position with the lowest hub runout. This will help ensure maximum rotor life.

 

yeah exactly what he said, but what i've seen at toyota if the rotor has been through 3 brake jobs and the rotors were cut each time its about time to change them. but definitely check the thickness of the rotors.

 

I usually just replace my rotors she ever doing a brake job. Rotors aren't that expensive

 

who makes the OEM rotors?

 

Yeah I had to replace my pads, so I put brembo rotors all around

Pretty cheap