AJT123

Ha, I figured it wouldn't be cheap, but $1200? Come on!

Apparently I need new wear sensors, which I couldn't care less about replacing, so I'm wondering if the dealer could rig the wire to where I don't need a new one. Kinda stupid engineering to design a sensor that goes off AND has to be replaced.

I'm waiting on Toyota to call me back with a price, hopefully it will be significantly cheaper.

I'm wanting OEM performance and like to always replace with OEM, but this is nearly a 12 year old car now. $1200 for brakes is crazy. If an indy can do this work for way less and the results be the same, I'm all for that. Has anyone gone this route?

I'm aware this is a 60k car and things aren't gonna be cheap, but I'm will to explore any other options that won't cost me $1200 for a brake job!

Any input?

Kira X

iTrader: (24)

That's insane! I bought some decent rotors from O'Reilly Auto Parts for $150 and spent $90 on Akebono Ceramic brake pads. My mechanic charged $80 to change everything out and also painted the brake calipers.

I would highly recommend that you find an independent shop to do the work. I watched my mechanic change mine out and it only took him 35 minutes to do all four corners. It looks very easy considering how high end an LS430 is.

airchomper

+1 for Akebono

And KiraX is right - advanced high performance brakes like ours are actually easier to work with that cheap brake components you'd find on a highlander or something.

It's so expensive because of the the parts cost - the rotors and pads are a few hundred, the sensors are a hundred or so, and they need 8 new bolts to mount the caliper to the car.

I'd look for an independent Hybrid Mechanic - point being that anyone who works on Hybrids also works on Toyotas and probably has an informed opinion about it. Yelp says that a place called "Lextech" is in your neck of the woods and specializes in Toyotas/Lexuses. It's worth getting a quote from them.

If not, get the parts on rock auto (I think it's around $400 for quality pads and rotors and replacement sensors and new bolts). And see who'll install it. I'd look for a quote around 2 hours. I know I could do it to my car in an hour and a half while drinking and messing around with my music. It might make sense to get a brake fluid change at the same time - expect to add $150 for that but just because that's the prevailing price for brake fluid. It'll take maybe $6 worth of brake fluid and 10 minutes of labor to change the brake fluid while the car is up and the wheels are off.

KING

iTrader: (1)

Get the parts yourself and DIY, honestly. It's simple and easy as Kira mentioned.

That would be the best way to cut down price.

Tom57

Just as an example, you can get the brake wear sensor for around $10. It's just a wire with wear sensor attached. No need for OEM.

If you check Amazon, you can get OEM pads (front and back) as well as OEM or Centric rotors (front and back) for $400 +/-.

Tom57

try less than $13.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Lexus-LS...tVQAeQ&vxp=mtr

airchomper

Not at the Lexus dealer. I think it's $130 for both. I offered that only as an explanation for why the quote was so high.

And to the OP - unless you have some experience with mechanical projects, I would recommend paying someone else to do your brakes. The consequences for messing the job up are expensive and/or catastrophic.

Tom57

I offered as an example of how cheaply the (front & rear) brake sensors can be obtained non-OEM, since OEM wear sensors are completely unnecessary.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

I used this company in the past for another vehicle and I really liked the quality. I put slotted and cross-drilled rotors on a van and it make a fantastic difference.

http://www.r1concepts.com/category/s...otors/allbrand

bmore430

I am ordering pads and rotors this week for my 2005.

I am going for a slight upgrade with longevity in mind.

Im going with coated slotted rotors from FROZEN ROTORS with porterfield or akebono pads.

rotors are made in japan and machined in the usa.

supposed to be top notch

Brewmyown

My last brake job I had all four OEM rotors turned for less than $40 and put a high quality set of ceramic pads on for about $40 a set so about $120-$130 for all four wheels. My next brake job which will likely be in the next few months will be with slotted and drilled rotors. You can get a full set of slotted and drilled rotors and ceramic pads at rock auto.com for about $350. The LS430 is probably the easiest car I've ever did a brake job on and I've done them on a LOT of cars. If you have any mechanical automobile knowledge at all you can do the rotors and pads without any special tools. If you can change a tire, you have a good start to doing a brake job on an LS430.

They are very straight forward. Push down the spring on top of the pads, pull the two pins out and slide the pads out (many times no tools are needed to remove the pads). Once you get the bolts off holding the caliper and bracket, the rotor just comes right off (I believe there is one Phillips screw holding it on but that's likely an assembly line screw so they don't fall off and has nothing to do with the function of the rotor or brake system). Pop open the brake fluid reservoir, use a clamp to fully compress the calipers (you can compress them prying them with a screwdriver before removing the caliper), slip on the rotors, bolt on the caliper bracket, then the caliper. Pop in the pads, hold the spring down, slide the two pins in, close the reservoir and that's pretty much it. Start the car and pump the brake pedal several times before you put the car in gear. Also there should be no reason to open any brake bleaders so you don't have to bread the brakes when complete

Although it's a simple project, if you've never worked on cars or don't have a friend who has that can guide you, have it done by a professional and don't pay dealer prices.

AJT123

Thanks for your replies and input.

Toyota only quoted me $100 cheaper, and went into detail, like the Lexus dealer, that the parts are expensive and also mentioned the bolts.

I'm going to talk to a local, reputable garage which has always done all of my dad's cars (american mostly though) for decades, and he swears by them. I've bought tires from them and always considered using them for more basic work, and am generally impressed by the place. I'll see what they have to say, what they can quote me, and feel it out.

You gotta pay to play in this league, and I knew that full well when getting my LS. Flagship car, flagship maintenance costs. I'd be singing a different tune if this were a non-wear item repair, because after this work the brakes will last for another 120k. One person at work was like, "Just get rid of it, that's a grand." I told them they were crazy. The car is nearly paid for and is just now getting run in.

In any case, it's obvious the dealer is trying to rip me off by acting like this is some immediate critical work that needs to be done now or else, lol. Don't get me wrong, I saw the brakes myself when rotating tires a few months back, and they do need replacement (the car is in the shop now for a transmission fluid exchange and I asked to to give the brake system a look-over). I'd say overall the system is in the solid "yellow zone." For now, the brakes work JUST FINE. The only time you notice anything is when abruptly decelerating (like a panic stop if someone cuts you off on the freeway, etc.) from 70+ MPH, then you get a slight shimmy (though nothing drastic). But they still stop the car quite well and don't squeak or anything, lol. Silent. I've had other cars that drove, shimmied, squeaked *disastrously* when needing brake work. The dealer says the pads are worn through the sensor but the light isn't on yet. Maybe they're broken, which would be nice, because I don't need to pay another couple hundred for stupid sensors. I'm in awe of the car's engineering, but it's stupid to design a warning system that breaks when activating. That's nothing but a pointless money pit.

I'll keep everyone posted. Since everything is in need of replacement, I'll drive probably until it's close to metal on metal, and then figure out what to do or where to go. If it has to be OEM for the same feel/performance/longevity/etc, then I'll pay the premium. If I can pay half though for the same result believe me I will.

warminwisc

Bro I got crucified for spending 180 bucks w/o rotors at a toyota dealer so you WILL find alot of sympathy here. Tom57 the coated Centric rotors on my last LS where MINTBAR so I recommend em also. Watch shipping costs

warminwisc

That was for the fronts sorry

StanVanDam

To answer the question in the topic: If you are able-bodied and have 2 functioning hands, you should be replacing your pads and rotors yourself - it's about as easy as changing wiper blades - lift something, undo a tab, pull something out. I trust myself to do a more thorough and error-free job than the dealership or an independent shop would do. You don't even need a C-clamp - I just use a strong Snap-On flathead to compress the pistons. You also need a jack, needle-nose pliers, hammer, and for the rotors, the right sockets+ratchet. No other tools required.

I put in OEM pads ($124 CAD) at 80000km, front rotors ($150 each from Lexus dealership) at 85000km, Akebono ProACT Ultra Premium Ceramic pads ($102 CAD) at 125000km, and I take the pads out for brake system inspection/cleaning twice a year (when I install summer/winter tires). I believe Akebono is the manufacturer of the Toyota OEM pads.

If your brake wear sensor is tripped, just cut off the sensor, tie the 2 wire ends together, and hang the cable up where it won't get snagged. You don't need that sensor if you remove your tires and shine a bright flashlight into your brake pads at least once a year.

At 137000km, my rear rotors are due, I sometimes get mild vibration from the rear when braking down from highway speeds. Not going to bother getting the rotors machined - I bought Raybestos Advanced Technology 980199 rotors ($55 CAD each from RockAuto) because they publish their specs for lateral runout (under 0.002in lateral runout, under 0.0004in disc thickness variation). These are much better specs than their Professional Grade rotors, which say under 0.004 runout, under 0.0005 DTV.

Also, read https://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech....jsp?techid=85, http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to...ban-driving-2/, and http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

When braking heavily, don't keep the brakes fully depressed when at a stop. If you stop completely after heavy braking and continue applying strong pressure to the brakes after stopping, pad material will be imprinted onto the hot rotors at that one spot, which causes a wobble (you might not feel it) every time the pads touch that elevated section, which then accelerates uneven wear of the rotors to a level you will eventually feel.