DIY engine mount replacement
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 11
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From: AZ
DIY engine mount replacement
Has anyone replaced their engine mounts on an 01 LS430? I bought the mounts but the top nuts look like a total PITA to get to. Just did my timing belt two weeks ago and all four rotors and pads this week but this looks like a job I may pay someone to do. Any advice? Thanks.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,186
Likes: 729
From: Texas
Has anyone replaced their engine mounts on an 01 LS430? I bought the mounts but the top nuts look like a total PITA to get to. Just did my timing belt two weeks ago and all four rotors and pads this week but this looks like a job I may pay someone to do. Any advice? Thanks.
Be sure to detach the power steering fluid reservoir from its mounting bracket before you attempt to jack up the engine off of its mounts - the reservoir is in the way and you may damage it otherwise.
Here's a diagram showing how the pieces fit together. Also note the torque spec to avoid over-tighten - aluminum parts can be stripped easily.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 248
From: AZ
I also looked at doing the job myself and came to the conclusion there must be "a better way" than how I was going to go about it. I've also heard you have to drop the subframe for access?
The rear (transmission mount) couldn't be more straight forward, but I really want to do these also.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 11
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From: AZ
Did today. Took about 2 1/2 hours to do both mounts and transmission mount. Pretty straight forward but make sure you have a good selection of extensions and swivels. Passenger side easier than driver but driver removal was a breeze because it came out in two pieces 😳. Transmission mount was shot also. Runs almost like new now with timing belt and spark plugs. Will post pics later.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,186
Likes: 729
From: Texas
I did mine a few months ago. I remember the driver side was very congested and it took me a long time to maneuver the mount/bracket assembly out of the vehicle. So did you unbolt the motor mount from the bracket inside the engine bay and then pull them out individually? It makes perfect sense..
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I want post a note that I was told by a local independent Lexus shop. I called to get a quote because I don't think I want to do this one. Too much of a pain without a garage and a lift. While speaking with me the tech said a very common mistake people make is lifting the engine and supporting the weight from the oil pan. The oil pan gets tweaked enough to break or crack the oil pan seal and slowly you will start leaking oil. He said usually it is the upper pan. I think this is very good info that he volunteered to me. Just wanted to share. Don't support the weight with the oil pan.
Driver
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From: MN
Pole Position
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From: Illinois
Last edited by Tom57; Jan 30, 2015 at 11:16 AM.
Just received all three from Sewell this morning. Just waiting on the LCA bushings i ordered from eBay to arrive then i will start my "refresh of suspension" onslaught. Will give any feedback necessary as i proceed.
Item Description Unit Price Quantity Line total
MOUNT, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING, REAR NO.1
1237150170
$72.55 1 $72.55
INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT
1236150170
$116.80 2 $233.60
Subtotal: $306.15
Tax: $0.00
Ground Delivery: $18.31
Grand Total: $324.46
Item Description Unit Price Quantity Line total
MOUNT, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING, REAR NO.1
1237150170
$72.55 1 $72.55
INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT
1236150170
$116.80 2 $233.60
Subtotal: $306.15
Tax: $0.00
Ground Delivery: $18.31
Grand Total: $324.46
Phase one of suspension refresh
All mounts and LCA bushings are here. Next week i will be ordering the lower balljoints, steering rack bushings, and sway bar bushings. All to be installed at one time. Problem is i have to find a shop with a lift i can use. lol. After these items are installed, and alignment done, i will see hiw my ride is and make a decision if the UCA and struts are due for replacement. If not then i will focus on my interior issues like rear view camera and steering adjustment motors. Then a fresh new set of factory 18's will be on deck.
It's going to feel great. As long as you can't bounce your car with your weight and she does not dip when you brake the struts are probably fine. UCA's are the last to go. Don't forget to torque everything right and if you use an extension adjust torque accordingly.