CalitoAZ

Has anyone replaced their engine mounts on an 01 LS430? I bought the mounts but the top nuts look like a total PITA to get to. Just did my timing belt two weeks ago and all four rotors and pads this week but this looks like a job I may pay someone to do. Any advice? Thanks.

rkw77080

Actually, the "top nut" is hidden behind a bracket that is held to the engine block with 4 bolts. You will have to remove the engine mount and the bracket together. Once this assembly is removed, then you can detach the mount from the bracket.

Be sure to detach the power steering fluid reservoir from its mounting bracket before you attempt to jack up the engine off of its mounts - the reservoir is in the way and you may damage it otherwise.

Here's a diagram showing how the pieces fit together. Also note the torque spec to avoid over-tighten - aluminum parts can be stripped easily.

CalitoAZ

Thanks! Can't imagine I'll have to jack up the engine too much if I have to remove the bracket. Thanks for tip on PS tank.

BradTank

If you end up making a go at it, snap some pictures and let us know how it went.

I also looked at doing the job myself and came to the conclusion there must be "a better way" than how I was going to go about it. I've also heard you have to drop the subframe for access?

The rear (transmission mount) couldn't be more straight forward, but I really want to do these also.

CalitoAZ

Did today. Took about 2 1/2 hours to do both mounts and transmission mount. Pretty straight forward but make sure you have a good selection of extensions and swivels. Passenger side easier than driver but driver removal was a breeze because it came out in two pieces 😳. Transmission mount was shot also. Runs almost like new now with timing belt and spark plugs. Will post pics later.

rkw77080

I did mine a few months ago. I remember the driver side was very congested and it took me a long time to maneuver the mount/bracket assembly out of the vehicle. So did you unbolt the motor mount from the bracket inside the engine bay and then pull them out individually? It makes perfect sense...

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

Post pics and any support you used. I want to do mine before long. The transmission or rear motor mount as Lexus calls it already did. That was simple.

CalitoAZ

No. The actual mount was broken in half. Got the new one in with little trouble just have to make sure engine is jacked up a few inches.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

I want post a note that I was told by a local independent Lexus shop. I called to get a quote because I don't think I want to do this one. Too much of a pain without a garage and a lift. While speaking with me the tech said a very common mistake people make is lifting the engine and supporting the weight from the oil pan. The oil pan gets tweaked enough to break or crack the oil pan seal and slowly you will start leaking oil. He said usually it is the upper pan. I think this is very good info that he volunteered to me. Just wanted to share. Don't support the weight with the oil pan.

Anthony81

How much was the quote he gave you?

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

$330. But I think I can get that price down a little.

Parts are $123 each at Lexus of South Atlanta online Parts. That is cheaper then his cost he said... lol

Tom57

Anyone who jacks up their car (or engine) with a floor jack at the oil pan should not be doing any DIY work on their car.

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

Just received all three from Sewell this morning. Just waiting on the LCA bushings i ordered from eBay to arrive then i will start my "refresh of suspension" onslaught. Will give any feedback necessary as i proceed.



Item Description Unit Price Quantity Line total
MOUNT, TRANSMISSION MOUNTING, REAR NO.1
1237150170
$72.55 1 $72.55
INSULATOR, ENGINE MOUNTING, FRONT
1236150170
$116.80 2 $233.60
Subtotal: $306.15
Tax: $0.00
Ground Delivery: $18.31
Grand Total: $324.46

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

All mounts and LCA bushings are here. Next week i will be ordering the lower balljoints, steering rack bushings, and sway bar bushings. All to be installed at one time. Problem is i have to find a shop with a lift i can use. lol. After these items are installed, and alignment done, i will see hiw my ride is and make a decision if the UCA and struts are due for replacement. If not then i will focus on my interior issues like rear view camera and steering adjustment motors. Then a fresh new set of factory 18's will be on deck.

Lavrishevo

iTrader: (1)

It's going to feel great. As long as you can't bounce your car with your weight and she does not dip when you brake the struts are probably fine. UCA's are the last to go. Don't forget to torque everything right and if you use an extension adjust torque accordingly.