New LS430 owner - a few questions
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
New LS430 owner - a few questions
Hi friends, I just recently picked up my 2001 LS430 UL (yes I already lowered the air sensor )
Previously I had this 2009 Honda Fit. I sold it because it was too high school for me. I felt like it was about time for me to grow up (and ditch the pink wheels especially lol)
I am really loving the Lexus life so far. I've been having fun exploring and getting to know my new car. As a former Honda owner, I am fascinated by all of the features the Lexus offers. Seems as though everything I can imagine has been made to be automated. It's amazing!
However, I have noticed a few features that aren't working properly.
First is the steering wheel adjustments - the telescoping works with the button and retracts automatically when the key is removed, but it does not return to its original position when I turn the car on. Up & down features are not working at all, even with by pressing the button. After reading up some on this I learned that it can be fixed by replacing just the tilt motor - can anyone confirm this?
Secondly, I noticed a problem with the rear passenger lights (rear map lights? not sure what to call them) these:
The lights are not working on either side. I checked the bulbs and connections on each side and everything seems to be intact. I also tried a new bulb in there and it still did not turn on. Then I checked the fuses and found them to be still in tact. No idea what else the problem could be. Suggestions?
Finally, the light under the height button seems to have burnt out
I think I can buy a tiny replacement bulb, right? Or do I need to purchase the whole switch?
My last question is: which website has the most reasonably priced OEM parts? A few small things are missing: the plastic engine cover, the first aid kit, also need to update the navigation I believe.
Taking my car to the dealer for its first maintenance this week! Hoping they don't tell me that all sorts of things need to be replaced (but I doubt that will happen because the car was dealer maintained for most of its life and has the carfax to prove it)
Thanks for any input!
Previously I had this 2009 Honda Fit. I sold it because it was too high school for me. I felt like it was about time for me to grow up (and ditch the pink wheels especially lol)
I am really loving the Lexus life so far. I've been having fun exploring and getting to know my new car. As a former Honda owner, I am fascinated by all of the features the Lexus offers. Seems as though everything I can imagine has been made to be automated. It's amazing!
However, I have noticed a few features that aren't working properly.
First is the steering wheel adjustments - the telescoping works with the button and retracts automatically when the key is removed, but it does not return to its original position when I turn the car on. Up & down features are not working at all, even with by pressing the button. After reading up some on this I learned that it can be fixed by replacing just the tilt motor - can anyone confirm this?
Secondly, I noticed a problem with the rear passenger lights (rear map lights? not sure what to call them) these:
The lights are not working on either side. I checked the bulbs and connections on each side and everything seems to be intact. I also tried a new bulb in there and it still did not turn on. Then I checked the fuses and found them to be still in tact. No idea what else the problem could be. Suggestions?
Finally, the light under the height button seems to have burnt out
I think I can buy a tiny replacement bulb, right? Or do I need to purchase the whole switch?
My last question is: which website has the most reasonably priced OEM parts? A few small things are missing: the plastic engine cover, the first aid kit, also need to update the navigation I believe.
Taking my car to the dealer for its first maintenance this week! Hoping they don't tell me that all sorts of things need to be replaced (but I doubt that will happen because the car was dealer maintained for most of its life and has the carfax to prove it)
Thanks for any input!
#3
Rookie
Thread Starter
Thank you
Oh yeah one more thing I noticed. When I try and put a destination into the navigation, sometimes all of the options are grayed out. Even when I'm parked, not in motion at all. I even tried the "override drive" hack and it still does it sometimes. It's only on the destination page and it happens seemingly randomly. Anyone have tips?
Oh yeah one more thing I noticed. When I try and put a destination into the navigation, sometimes all of the options are grayed out. Even when I'm parked, not in motion at all. I even tried the "override drive" hack and it still does it sometimes. It's only on the destination page and it happens seemingly randomly. Anyone have tips?
#5
Rookie
I also have a couple of burnt out lights in the dash (ECT selection and seat temp), and thankfully you can just swap the lightbulb behind the switch.
Of course, this being f-ing Switzerland, I was quoted about $12.50 for each bulb...
Of course, this being f-ing Switzerland, I was quoted about $12.50 for each bulb...
#6
Moderator
Welcome to the forum. Very nice car. Ditching the pink wheels was the correct decision. The steering wheel column are powered by small electric motors for tilt and distance are common weak points in the LS430. Search forum and you should be able to find previous posts including pics of folks diy cleaning and lubing gears and in some cases replacing the motors.
In terms of lights most of the bulbs located on switches are pretty easy to access and change particularly on the console area - search posts for Aux input, Ipod interface, ashtray removal, and you should see posts with pics on how to easily dissemble the console and center stack to gain access to lots of the switches.
If the lights are in the main dash or instrument cluster access is more difficult. You may tackle that or decide to live with it.
Lights in the back not working - Electrical trouble shooting is very simple but complex at same time - you need to use a cheap electrical multimeter that will test for voltage/power and see if you are getting 12v power to the bulb socket when the switch is "on" , if no power at socket, you have to work backwards from there and test at the switch for power, if not there test at fuse block, etc - if bulb socket, switches, and ten fuse block are all OK but no power something must be cut, loose, or disconnected that is stopping power.
In terms of lights most of the bulbs located on switches are pretty easy to access and change particularly on the console area - search posts for Aux input, Ipod interface, ashtray removal, and you should see posts with pics on how to easily dissemble the console and center stack to gain access to lots of the switches.
If the lights are in the main dash or instrument cluster access is more difficult. You may tackle that or decide to live with it.
Lights in the back not working - Electrical trouble shooting is very simple but complex at same time - you need to use a cheap electrical multimeter that will test for voltage/power and see if you are getting 12v power to the bulb socket when the switch is "on" , if no power at socket, you have to work backwards from there and test at the switch for power, if not there test at fuse block, etc - if bulb socket, switches, and ten fuse block are all OK but no power something must be cut, loose, or disconnected that is stopping power.
Last edited by Jabberwock; 07-14-14 at 04:36 AM.
#7
Driver School Candidate
With respect to the rear lights. I have had the annoying tail light out message. It comes on and off.
The problem is the harness in back. There is a plastic part that the light socket goes into. These crack and keep the light from making contact. The way you can tell is to un-twist the light and inspect closely. Beware, if you have big hands like me then it's hard to get the light back in. Maybe that's how the part breaks. Who knows.
The harness costs around $50 if you order from Toyota (at least in Portland it costs that much).
Easy to replace.
The problem is the harness in back. There is a plastic part that the light socket goes into. These crack and keep the light from making contact. The way you can tell is to un-twist the light and inspect closely. Beware, if you have big hands like me then it's hard to get the light back in. Maybe that's how the part breaks. Who knows.
The harness costs around $50 if you order from Toyota (at least in Portland it costs that much).
Easy to replace.
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#8
Rookie
Thread Starter
Welcome to the forum. Very nice car. Ditching the pink wheels was the correct decision. The steering wheel column are powered by small electric motors for tilt and distance are common weak points in the LS430. Search forum and you should be able to find previous posts including pics of folks diy cleaning and lubing gears and in some cases replacing the motors.
In terms of lights most of the bulbs located on switches are pretty easy to access and change particularly on the console area - search posts for Aux input, Ipod interface, ashtray removal, and you should see posts with pics on how to easily dissemble the console and center stack to gain access to lots of the switches.
If the lights are in the main dash or instrument cluster access is more difficult. You may tackle that or decide to live with it.
Lights in the back not working - Electrical trouble shooting is very simple but complex at same time - you need to use a cheap electrical multimeter that will test for voltage/power and see if you are getting 12v power to the bulb socket when the switch is "on" , if no power at socket, you have to work backwards from there and test at the switch for power, if not there test at fuse block, etc - if bulb socket, switches, and ten fuse block are all OK but no power something must be cut, loose, or disconnected that is stopping power.
In terms of lights most of the bulbs located on switches are pretty easy to access and change particularly on the console area - search posts for Aux input, Ipod interface, ashtray removal, and you should see posts with pics on how to easily dissemble the console and center stack to gain access to lots of the switches.
If the lights are in the main dash or instrument cluster access is more difficult. You may tackle that or decide to live with it.
Lights in the back not working - Electrical trouble shooting is very simple but complex at same time - you need to use a cheap electrical multimeter that will test for voltage/power and see if you are getting 12v power to the bulb socket when the switch is "on" , if no power at socket, you have to work backwards from there and test at the switch for power, if not there test at fuse block, etc - if bulb socket, switches, and ten fuse block are all OK but no power something must be cut, loose, or disconnected that is stopping power.
With respect to the rear lights. I have had the annoying tail light out message. It comes on and off.
The problem is the harness in back. There is a plastic part that the light socket goes into. These crack and keep the light from making contact. The way you can tell is to un-twist the light and inspect closely. Beware, if you have big hands like me then it's hard to get the light back in. Maybe that's how the part breaks. Who knows.
The harness costs around $50 if you order from Toyota (at least in Portland it costs that much).
Easy to replace.
The problem is the harness in back. There is a plastic part that the light socket goes into. These crack and keep the light from making contact. The way you can tell is to un-twist the light and inspect closely. Beware, if you have big hands like me then it's hard to get the light back in. Maybe that's how the part breaks. Who knows.
The harness costs around $50 if you order from Toyota (at least in Portland it costs that much).
Easy to replace.
#9
Rookie
Thread Starter
In other news, at my last dealership visit, they brought some more problems to my attention.
Looks like I need replacement valve covers, as well as an oil pan repair/sealing. The car is leaking oil in small amounts right now to the point where it isn't yet dripping onto the floor. But a lot of the parts on the underside of the car are covered in leaked oil. This includes part of my exhaust, so when I drive the car for a long while I get this nice oil burning smell haha. My dad thinks I can fix these on my own but we'll see (I only have basic mechanical skills at this point)
Looks like I need replacement valve covers, as well as an oil pan repair/sealing. The car is leaking oil in small amounts right now to the point where it isn't yet dripping onto the floor. But a lot of the parts on the underside of the car are covered in leaked oil. This includes part of my exhaust, so when I drive the car for a long while I get this nice oil burning smell haha. My dad thinks I can fix these on my own but we'll see (I only have basic mechanical skills at this point)
#13
I'd look at the valve cover bolts first before I just started replacing the gaskets... they have a tendency to come loose and a small amount of tightening can sometimes correct the problem...
What I've read from elsewhere on the forum. Have not tried this myself...bet need to.
What I've read from elsewhere on the forum. Have not tried this myself...bet need to.
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