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Need Help: No power to mult-function display after idiotic battery replacement

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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 04:13 PM
  #1  
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Default Need Help: No power to mult-function display after idiotic battery replacement

I replaced the battery in my 2005 LS 430 UL, and like an idiot, I reversed the cables to the terminals for a nano-second. (The old battery had the positive and negative on opposite sides than the new battery, and like an idiot I didn't check!)

After getting a check engine light, the computer threw off the P2118 code..I blew the fuse for the throttle actuator control motor...replaced the fuse and now the car runs, and everything seems to be ok.....except for the multi-function display. There is no power to that at all.

Which means that I have no air conditioning, no radio, and of course no navigation.

After searching and reading the posts in this forum, the only thing I can think of is a fusible link? The ALT fusible link (140A) has been cited as often being the culprit, but from the clear top it looks good. Could it still be bad? (Charging voltage to the battery is still 13.6, so the alternator appears to be fine.)

And if it is bad and needs to be replaced, how the heck do I get that fusible link out?

Many thanks in advance, and please feel free to beat me up on the disastrous battery replacement. (The funny thing is that I could have driven the car to Advance Auto Parts and they would have replaced the battery for free....and not bulloxed things up like I did!)
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Old Jun 8, 2013 | 07:37 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by JazzyJ
I replaced the battery in my 2005 LS 430 UL, and like an idiot, I reversed the cables to the terminals for a nano-second. (The old battery had the positive and negative on opposite sides than the new battery, and like an idiot I didn't check!)

After getting a check engine light, the computer threw off the P2118 code..I blew the fuse for the throttle actuator control motor...replaced the fuse and now the car runs, and everything seems to be ok.....except for the multi-function display. There is no power to that at all.

Which means that I have no air conditioning, no radio, and of course no navigation.

After searching and reading the posts in this forum, the only thing I can think of is a fusible link? The ALT fusible link (140A) has been cited as often being the culprit, but from the clear top it looks good. Could it still be bad? (Charging voltage to the battery is still 13.6, so the alternator appears to be fine.)

And if it is bad and needs to be replaced, how the heck do I get that fusible link out?

Many thanks in advance, and please feel free to beat me up on the disastrous battery replacement. (The funny thing is that I could have driven the car to Advance Auto Parts and they would have replaced the battery for free....and not bulloxed things up like I did!)
When my fuselink blew with the same scenario it looked fine from top but it was blown.
Remove it and inspect it before you consider other possibilities. There is a very high chance that it is still a 140A fuselink.
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Old Jun 11, 2013 | 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BMW7_LS430
When my fuselink blew with the same scenario it looked fine from top but it was blown.
Remove it and inspect it before you consider other possibilities. There is a very high chance that it is still a 140A fuselink.
Thanks so much for the reply. Turns out there was one more simple fuse blown that I missed during the first inspection...the radio circuit. Replaced that and the car is good as new! I consider myself very, very lucky. When I first did this I thought I did a LOT of damage. Only two simple fuses, and no need to mess with the fusible links.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 04:27 PM
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Default i am also an idiot

Originally Posted by JazzyJ
Thanks so much for the reply. Turns out there was one more simple fuse blown that I missed during the first inspection...the radio circuit. Replaced that and the car is good as new! I consider myself very, very lucky. When I first did this I thought I did a LOT of damage. Only two simple fuses, and no need to mess with the fusible links.
i did the same thing ...jump started and reversed the cables .... now center stack is all out. No gps no radio no climate. Which fuses did you end up replacing and where are they located?
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 06:38 PM
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Please look in your passenger-side fuse box - check the 7.5A fuse called "P-ACC" and a 7.5A fuse called "RADIO NO.1"
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 07:53 PM
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Glad you got away with that cheap and easy
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 06:02 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by rkw77080
Please look in your passenger-side fuse box - check the 7.5A fuse called "P-ACC" and a 7.5A fuse called "RADIO NO.1"
I don't have the manual in front of me, but I'm pretty sure when on the pass side, it's in the column of fuses running down the middle. From memory I believe the bottom one in the middle is for the front 12V lighter, and maybe the one above is the one....

I remember reversing the cables in HS because my buddy had one of them fancy Varta batteries on his German car. I yanked the cable off fast, and hit my Toyota radiator putting a hole in it. Maybe they didn't have JB Weld back then cuz the putty I got from Caldor did not work. Had to pay $100 to fix it, which was huge to a HS student as this was my parents' car. To put things in perspective, a HP calculator cost $89 back then, which costs $300 to $500 on eBay today (USA made). Still, I'd go back to those days if I could...look at how far I've come, driving an 11 y.o. LS.
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