Window is slow going up and down
#1
Window is slow going up and down
Hi All,
as the title states, my driver side window is very slow to go up and down and sometimes stops midway...I have looked to see if anything is blocking it or if any of the rubbers pieces are coming into contact. To my knowledge nothing is severely blocking the window. (window trim brushes the windows)
Is this my window regulator going? Is there anything else i should look at?
as the title states, my driver side window is very slow to go up and down and sometimes stops midway...I have looked to see if anything is blocking it or if any of the rubbers pieces are coming into contact. To my knowledge nothing is severely blocking the window. (window trim brushes the windows)
Is this my window regulator going? Is there anything else i should look at?
#2
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: PR
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im having the same problem with my driver side window althought it doesnt stop midway, it just slows down and ive checked it to see if theres any blocking and found none... i used a lil bit of wd40 on the windows rails and it works for a few days but went back to the same thing
#4
Driver
I had the same problem. What the issue was (in my case) was that the rubber channels that the window slides in were dried out and therefore sticky. Don't use WD 40 - it's not a lubricant - it's to free rusted/seized parts. Use a lubricant - Jig A Loo etc. which will remain on the rubber to allow the window to move up and down at a normal speed.
#6
a post from BITOG website about jig-A-loo:
As a penetrating oil, it's pretty good, at least as good as WD-40, break free and MMO. Doesn't seem quite as strong as PB, but close enough for most applications.
It smells better than most pen lubes, quite citrusy at first. However, there's a strong chemical after-smell that I find kind of hideous.
If you get some on your skin, it actually kind of dries up and burns, unlike WD-40 that keeps your skin sort of oily.
It's a good lube for metals and plastic. Like I said, it dries pretty quickly but leaves a noticeable film that doesn't go away as quick as WD-40. I've used it on the barrel of my 20 gauge and it's left a good moisture-proof coating. I don't trust it enough around the innards yet so I don't know how well it doubles as gun oil.
As for moisture and water diplacement, this stuff kicks WD-40's butt hands down. Spray it on a wet sheet of tin and the water just starts instantly evaporating. I was curious so I tried the same exact thing with WD-40 and it seems that the water kind of mixed in with the WD and formed this oily mess. No evaporative qualities that I could see. I know that's not a very scientific experiment but it kind of impressed me.
For a degreaser, it seems stronger than WD-40 but not on par with a dedicated degreaser like Gunk. I used it on one side of my transmission pan to loosen up the old gasket crud and it did a capable job. On the other side I used a generic engine degreaser and it did the same thing, just much quicker.
I usually detail my engine with WD-40 after degreasing, and let me say Jig-A-Loo does this much better. It leaves a non-oily coat on the motor and really shines my hoses and plastic. It has not attracted the dust that WD-40 does and leaves the rubber looking nice and new (it's a silicone based formula).
The major success I've had with Jig-a-Loo is as a tar/bug and tree sap remover. Spray it on and let it absorb into the sap or tar and it comes off very easily. In fact, I had two spots on my Buick that I had given up on and this outperformed any sap or tar remover I've ever tried.
So, my verdict is very favorable. This is better than most any WD-40 clone I've ever tried. I still like Marvel Mystery Penetrating Oil ( NOT regular MMO, there's a difference) as a penetrating solvent/ general lube. I still like WD-40 for removing price tags/stickers from various surfaces. But JAL is a good product overall. I just really hate that strong chemical after-smell.
Right now their website offers a full rebate up till December this year, so if some of you were putting off picking this stuff up now might be the time to give it a try.
As a penetrating oil, it's pretty good, at least as good as WD-40, break free and MMO. Doesn't seem quite as strong as PB, but close enough for most applications.
It smells better than most pen lubes, quite citrusy at first. However, there's a strong chemical after-smell that I find kind of hideous.
If you get some on your skin, it actually kind of dries up and burns, unlike WD-40 that keeps your skin sort of oily.
It's a good lube for metals and plastic. Like I said, it dries pretty quickly but leaves a noticeable film that doesn't go away as quick as WD-40. I've used it on the barrel of my 20 gauge and it's left a good moisture-proof coating. I don't trust it enough around the innards yet so I don't know how well it doubles as gun oil.
As for moisture and water diplacement, this stuff kicks WD-40's butt hands down. Spray it on a wet sheet of tin and the water just starts instantly evaporating. I was curious so I tried the same exact thing with WD-40 and it seems that the water kind of mixed in with the WD and formed this oily mess. No evaporative qualities that I could see. I know that's not a very scientific experiment but it kind of impressed me.
For a degreaser, it seems stronger than WD-40 but not on par with a dedicated degreaser like Gunk. I used it on one side of my transmission pan to loosen up the old gasket crud and it did a capable job. On the other side I used a generic engine degreaser and it did the same thing, just much quicker.
I usually detail my engine with WD-40 after degreasing, and let me say Jig-A-Loo does this much better. It leaves a non-oily coat on the motor and really shines my hoses and plastic. It has not attracted the dust that WD-40 does and leaves the rubber looking nice and new (it's a silicone based formula).
The major success I've had with Jig-a-Loo is as a tar/bug and tree sap remover. Spray it on and let it absorb into the sap or tar and it comes off very easily. In fact, I had two spots on my Buick that I had given up on and this outperformed any sap or tar remover I've ever tried.
So, my verdict is very favorable. This is better than most any WD-40 clone I've ever tried. I still like Marvel Mystery Penetrating Oil ( NOT regular MMO, there's a difference) as a penetrating solvent/ general lube. I still like WD-40 for removing price tags/stickers from various surfaces. But JAL is a good product overall. I just really hate that strong chemical after-smell.
Right now their website offers a full rebate up till December this year, so if some of you were putting off picking this stuff up now might be the time to give it a try.
#7
Slow Drivers Window, Thoughts?
Hi Friends,
Oh well been making my way down the list of to do's to get the SC430 as good looking and running fine. I to have noticed that The Drivers door is slower going down and up vs the passenger side! I did lube seals and anything on the exterior to make sure nothing was binding. My window does go up and does not stop, however when putting up, again Driver side is slower than Passenger.
That said twice, what would you believe the culprit could be, The Motor or the Widow Regulator? or both? Anybody have any clue? I went ahead and ordered today a used Combo Motor and Regulator from a E-Bayer who has 100% feedback.
Any feedback?
Thanks
Bob
Oh well been making my way down the list of to do's to get the SC430 as good looking and running fine. I to have noticed that The Drivers door is slower going down and up vs the passenger side! I did lube seals and anything on the exterior to make sure nothing was binding. My window does go up and does not stop, however when putting up, again Driver side is slower than Passenger.
That said twice, what would you believe the culprit could be, The Motor or the Widow Regulator? or both? Anybody have any clue? I went ahead and ordered today a used Combo Motor and Regulator from a E-Bayer who has 100% feedback.
Any feedback?
Thanks
Bob
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#8
Moderator
I'm not sure about SC430's but the Ls430's have an "ECM", for lack of a better term, in each door. Lexus calls it a Multiplex Network Door Computer. They have been known to fail.
I don't know what year your car is but the part number for a 2006 LS is 8922350240
.
I don't know what year your car is but the part number for a 2006 LS is 8922350240
.
The following users liked this post:
hoffy5 (11-01-17)
#9
Ordered one
Hi, I purchased one of E-Bay for 25.00, I will test with new used part and see if that is the culprit, but for sure I am going to take the whole door apart and check everything!
Thanks!
B-
Thanks!
B-
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