The sports sway bar package come with sport bushings that are not the same as the non sport bushings.

2 BUSHING, STABILIZER, REAR 4881850020 $11.28 (Sport)
1 BAR, STABILIZER, REAR 4881250130 $93.81 (Sport)

 

from what i read so far is that the bushings that come with the sport sway is made out of rubber instead of polyurethane.

 

the rear sway bar is easy if you have the right tools. soon as you zap the 17 nut, or 14. i forgot. its gona start spinning. u have to grab the back end with a vicegrip very tight and then zap at it again with a power gun. then you have the brackets on the bottom which are just 3 10mm bolts on each side. id do the end links too since your already there.

 

Urethane is OEM. Poly is most aftermarket. In general, poly has bad reviews for ruining the ride. Particularly, upper and lower control arms.

 

I just did the sport sway bar. It took about an hour. Very easy DIY. You'll need a 10mm and 14mm wrench. 2 10mm nuts (right pic below left circled red) holding metal bushing brackets and 14mm nut (right pic below right circled red) connected to stabilizer links on each side. You'll have to remove at least 1 wheel in order to remove and insert the sway bar. The bushings are made of the same material as the original. The old bushings have 13 written on it and the new bushings have 14 written on it. I didn't notice any spinning nor need to grab anything to prevent spinning as stated by SlyT. I attached a picture of the old and new. Don't know if you can tell from the picture but the sport sway bar is noticeable bigger. And Yes it does corner a little flatter and with less body roll. For $115 upgrade, I would definitely recommend it.

 

Thank you for the write-up, Zodiac. This is a super-simple DIY, inexpensive mod, that makes a noticeable improvement in handling, especially at highway speeds, without sacrificing the smooth LS ride.

 

Do you need to unweight the rear - jack the rear off the ground and put on jack stands? Or can you use ramps? Sounds like 1 wheel needs to be removed, so the question may be moot. Thought i"d ask just in case.

 

I recall you need to put both wheels off the ground. I jacked the rear up on the differential. Yes one wheel needs to be off in order to remove and install the sway bar.

 

Good tip! I'll keep that in mind when it comes time. Looking forward to this mod.

 

I just installed the sport sway bar and on the last bolt I was tightening on a bushing it just sheered off just as it was almost all the way in!!!!

What do I do? Its tightened down everywhere but this one bushing bolt.. Cant believe it... Need help

 

You need an easy out bolt extractor and a new bolt.
Next time, use a torque wrench on the bolts.

 

Thanks. I'll see what i can do to fix this. The car rides nice with no more rolling now. I'll take it easy until this is fixed. Thanks again

 

CAUTION: Driving with only 1 bolt attached to the bushing clamp on one side of the rear sway bar is asking for more trouble. All of the torque / downward force from the sway bar (especially on a turn to the side opposite the clamp with one bolt) may break the one bolt holding the clamp. I don't know the ASTM spec for those clamp bolts but they are designed for the duty of the sway bar. Fix it asap. If the remaining bolt snaps, the sway bar may drop down and could cause serious damage while driving.

 

The bolt is getting extracted tomorrow! Thanks for the help with this, Tom! I really hope the removal is easy for my muffler guy so this doesn't turn into a hellish deal.

 

The muffler shop will extract the bolt easily. They deal with worse situations regularly.