Spring detailing process
06-10-11, 11:39 AM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Spring detailing process
Last week I completed my annual 20+ hours of springtime LS430 detailing + paint protection. The mods might move this writeup to the detailing section, but I wanted to share this with the LS430 crew specifically.
This paint protection process lasts at least 12 months. I do this in the springtime and I have water-repellancy all winter. No pictures because I use my digital camera less than once per year and the batteries are dead, and my Blackberry camera wouldn't do it any justice.
For all steps involving buffing or towels on paint, use only 100% Made in USA white border-free cotton towels. The following can put swirls in your paint:
* 100% cotton towels made elsewhere (reportedly not 100% cotton)
* borders on towels
* non-white towels
* microfibre
Zaino recently created white and blonde border-free towels. I have the blonde ones (whites have been sold out) and I think they are amazing. Always wash with warm or hot water and liquid detergent, and never use dryer sheets or softeners. Tumble dry on low or medium heat works best.
For non-paint surfaces, microfibre is OK. I use Sonus Der Wunder microfibre towels (green tight-weave for windows/glass, white dual-sided for leather and all-purpose cleaning).
I use several Zaino products. Since they are numerically coded, I've included descriptions of each so you could substitute with your favorite brand if you wish.
Here is my process:
*** Lubricate locks/latches/hinges ***
[10 mins] Spray door latches and hinges with white lithium grease (don't forget gas door hinge and trunk latch), blow in fine powdered graphite into lock tumblers, and inject thick grease to hood strut and trunk strut ball joints (I used garage door grease, but synthetic brake grease or whatever you have lying around should also work).
My sunroof rails appear to be still greased since a Toyota oil change awhile ago, so I left it as-is.
[5 mins] Remove battery clamps, clean corrosion on terminals and clamps using baking soda and water solution, then apply dielectric grease on all surfaces.
[5 mins] Check tire inflation and set to factory spec.
[5 mins] If your tire valve stem is brass and your valve stem cap is aluminum (or any other 2 dissimilar metals), apply some dielectric grease or something make sure the caps don't fuse to the stem. If the caps seize and fuse to the valve stem, you have to replace the stem. ~$20 per tire normally, and even more if you have TPMS.
*** Clean under hood ***
[60 mins] Wipe down everything under the hood with paper towels and water (or pay for chemicals if you prefer, but I think it's a waste of money since it's all gonna get dirty soon enough). Vacuum/wipedown engine air filter box and intake, replace engine filter, clean MAF and throttle body, top up washer fluid (plain water works fine if it's summertime and if you have the water-repellent glass).
*** Clean interior ***
[20 mins] Clean interior windows/glass and rear-view mirror using the green tight-weave Der Wunder microfibre cloth + Stoner's Invisible Glass Aerosol Can. I haven't tried the spray bottle version and can't comment on its effectiveness. Do not use Stoner's on tint - use just plain water and the tight-weave microfibre and it should work just fine.
[20 mins] Vacuum leather seats and all surfaces thoroughly using appropriate vacuum attachments. If you have time, undo the 4 bolts for each of the front 2 seats, then you can tilt them back without disconnecting any harnesses and clean underneath them.
[5 mins] Replace seat filters, cabin air filter, and rear AC trunk filter.
[120 mins] Remove floormats and vacuum thoroughly. Hot water soak in bathtub (just enough water to cover them), then apply liquid laundry detergent and scrub thoroughly with a stiff carpet brush. Rinse very thoroughly with warm-hot water while scrubbing to ensure that all soap residue is removed. If you have a shower wand with a high-pressure blast feature, use it. Leftover soap residue will attract dirt. Stand them up in the bathtub and put an oscillating fan on them, or hang dry. It will take a day or so to dry.
[30 mins] Soak 1 or 2 tight-weave microfibre cloths in water, wring out most of the water, then wipe down everything non-leather (steering wheel, instrument cluster, nav screen, wood grain, shift ****, etc.) The tight-weave green Der Wunder microfibre is amazing at pulling dirt out of surfaces using just plain water. Try cleaning your bathroom mirror with it and plain water and you'll see what I mean.
[30 mins] Use Z-9 Leather Cleaner and the white microfibre cloth to remove grime from all leather surfaces. I have mild dye transfer from my leather jacket, so this involved a lot of scrubbing on the driver seat. By using the white microfibre cloth, you can see your progress in removing the stains.
[30 mins] Use Z-10 Leather Conditioner to replenish the oils in all leather surfaces. Apply liberally with a white microfibre cloth and leave all the windows/sunroof open so it can air out. Otherwise, it could condense on the windows and form a film. If your leather needs extra cleaning or replenishment, Leatherique products are reportedly the best.
[15 mins] Clean the inside of door jambs with a dampened throwaway rag to remove excess grime, then do it over again with a throwaway rag and Z-AIO (general purpose paint cleaner, contains fine abrasives for cleaning power and provides some paint protection and shine)
*** Remove contaminants and old sealant/wax from paint ***
[30 mins] Wash car with soft sheepskin mitt, using 1 bucket of Z-7 car shampoo mix (5 capfuls for a 10L bucket) and 1 bucket of plain water. After each soap application, agitate the mitt in the clean bucket to rinse the grit off before resoaping. Also, start with the cleanest surfaces (windows/top of car) and end at the dirtiest (front and lower panels of car). This prevents grit from getting into your main wash bucket, which would add swirls to the paint. Don't let soap dry on the car - do this in the shade or on a cool day if possible. It is safe to hose off the underneath of the car using a garden hose to remove winter salt. Not sure if it's safe with a pressure washer.
On final rinse, set your nozzle to maximum flow/lowest spray dispersion, to enable water to sheet off the car, drying it faster. Dry with a clean towel. I don't recommend using a leaf blower because this blasts unfiltered air (containing airborne contaminants such as pollen) into your paint.
I don't agree with the common Dawn dish soap process for removing old wax/sealants. Dawn is very effective at drying out rubber trim, which would lead to cracking or increased wind noise due to a weaker seal. Safer to claybar the old sealants off the paint. Dawn website specifically says not to use it to wash cars.
[10 mins] Wash tires with a throwaway rag, then apply Z-16 (tire gloss) using a foam sponge (like the ones for quick-shining shoes - not the 3M dish sponges, they crumble apart).
[30 mins] For those with the chrome wheels, wipedown with a dampened throwaway rag to remove the heavy grime and oil. Then with a smaller throwaway non-scratching rag, thoroughly apply Mother's Chrome Polish and rub it in thoroughly to clean. Allow 10-20mins to dry to a haze, then buff to a shine with a clean cotton throwaway rag. No need to waste expensive towels on wheels.
[5 hours] Claybar entire car using Z-18 claybar and Z-7 carwash as claylube. This can also remove contamination/overspray on the tailight plastic lenses. This year I picked up some Blue Riccardo clay for testing, and after some use, it totally falls apart, just like when you chew gum and eat food at the same time (I'm sure most of us did that as kids), and the gum falls apart. It starts disintegrating, doesn't stick to itself, and becomes too weak to pull contaminants out of the paint. The Z-18 claybar doesn't have this problem - I highly recommend it.
[30 mins] Rewash with Z-7 per above, or rinse claybar residue off the paint using a big bucket of water and a clean cotton towel.
*** Perform paint correction prior to applying sealants ***
[6 hours] For minor swirls/scratches, remove them from the paint using a Porter Cable 7424XP, White Lake Country Pad, and Menzerna PO203S. I use a mobile dual-tube, dual fixture fluorescent light combined with a handheld Brinkmann 800-2280-0 LED spotlight to locate swirls. Use 3M Blue Painter's Tape to tape off the trim - there will be very fine white dust particles coming from the polish. For heavier swirls/scratches, you'll need a 2-step process (ie. Meguiar's M105 w/Orange pad, then M205 with White pad).
You will need to apply 15-20lbs of pressure and ramp up to 5.5-6 on the speed dial for the polish to work effectively. After each panel, buff with a clean towel, then check the pad for excessive dusting and brush dust from the pad using a toothbrush (or blast with compressed air if you are wearing a NIOSH-approved dust mask). After the car is done, wipe down all buffed surfaces with 50/50 water/90+% alcohol mix to confirm that swirls have been removed, and to remove polish residues/oils/fillers.
[10 mins] Remove swirls from the black door pillars using PO203S and the White pad. Tape off the surrounding areas beforehand.
[10 mins] Remove tape residue all over the car using green microfibre cloth lightly dampened with water.
*** Start the paint protection process ***
[60 mins] Prep the paint for sealants using a base coat of Z-AIO. Buff off with clean cotton towel.
[60 mins] Apply ZFX-enabled Z-5 (sealant with mild swirl fillers) with cotton border-free applicator. The first coat takes the longest to work in - the second coat goes on much faster, and likewise for the next layers. It will take 2 clean cotton towels to buff off correctly.
[15 mins] Wipedown with Z-6 (quick detailer) and a fresh cotton towel. The Z-6 wipedown removes excess polish and helps buff in the Z-5.
[40 mins] Apply another coat of ZFX-enabled Z-5. Buff off with 2 fresh cotton towels.
[60 mins] Apply 1 coat of ZFX-enabled Z-2 (sealant without fillers, just high optical reflectivity). ZFX isn't required if you let the Z-5 bond overnight. Buff off with 2 fresh towels, and then do the Z-6 wipedown again with another fresh towel.
[30 mins] Apply Z-CS (top layer sealant, provides up to 9 months of paint protection) per instructions (wipe on, no buffing).
[12 hours] Wait 12 hours.
[30 mins] Apply Z-8 (high-end quick detailer, more expensive and glossier than Z-6, not for regular use). Z-8 is tough to use at first (smudges and leaves residue if you use too much or don't buff on properly). You will need your fluorescent lights and handheld LEDs to make sure you are applying it correctly. Instructions say to make it easier to use, you can dilute Z-8 with 1 part distilled water to 2 parts Z-8. However, it looks best at original concentration.
[15 mins] Clean exterior glass/mirrors using green tight-weave microfibre cloth and Stoner's Invisible Glass Aerosol Can. This is the last step because you will probably get the glass dirty in the previous steps.
That's all there is to it! Now the car has maximum shine and protection and looks better than brand new (minus front-end rock chips). Unfortunately I don't have pictures, but trust me, it looks really good.
To maintain this look, every few days or whenever the car gets dirty, wash with Z-7 car wash, shine with Z-6 quick detailer, use Stoner's Invisible Glass + tight-weave microfibre on the exterior glass, clean the tires with Z-16 tire gloss, and then reshine the chrome wheels with Mother's Chrome Polish.
Total time: 3 days. Given times are approximate and depends on the amount of work needed for your specific situation. My car never had any swirl removal performed, and it was about 2 years since my last claybarring, so those parts took a long time.
Any questions please ask. Hope this wasn't too hard to read.
This paint protection process lasts at least 12 months. I do this in the springtime and I have water-repellancy all winter. No pictures because I use my digital camera less than once per year and the batteries are dead, and my Blackberry camera wouldn't do it any justice.
For all steps involving buffing or towels on paint, use only 100% Made in USA white border-free cotton towels. The following can put swirls in your paint:
* 100% cotton towels made elsewhere (reportedly not 100% cotton)
* borders on towels
* non-white towels
* microfibre
Zaino recently created white and blonde border-free towels. I have the blonde ones (whites have been sold out) and I think they are amazing. Always wash with warm or hot water and liquid detergent, and never use dryer sheets or softeners. Tumble dry on low or medium heat works best.
For non-paint surfaces, microfibre is OK. I use Sonus Der Wunder microfibre towels (green tight-weave for windows/glass, white dual-sided for leather and all-purpose cleaning).
I use several Zaino products. Since they are numerically coded, I've included descriptions of each so you could substitute with your favorite brand if you wish.
Here is my process:
*** Lubricate locks/latches/hinges ***
[10 mins] Spray door latches and hinges with white lithium grease (don't forget gas door hinge and trunk latch), blow in fine powdered graphite into lock tumblers, and inject thick grease to hood strut and trunk strut ball joints (I used garage door grease, but synthetic brake grease or whatever you have lying around should also work).
My sunroof rails appear to be still greased since a Toyota oil change awhile ago, so I left it as-is.
[5 mins] Remove battery clamps, clean corrosion on terminals and clamps using baking soda and water solution, then apply dielectric grease on all surfaces.
[5 mins] Check tire inflation and set to factory spec.
[5 mins] If your tire valve stem is brass and your valve stem cap is aluminum (or any other 2 dissimilar metals), apply some dielectric grease or something make sure the caps don't fuse to the stem. If the caps seize and fuse to the valve stem, you have to replace the stem. ~$20 per tire normally, and even more if you have TPMS.
*** Clean under hood ***
[60 mins] Wipe down everything under the hood with paper towels and water (or pay for chemicals if you prefer, but I think it's a waste of money since it's all gonna get dirty soon enough). Vacuum/wipedown engine air filter box and intake, replace engine filter, clean MAF and throttle body, top up washer fluid (plain water works fine if it's summertime and if you have the water-repellent glass).
*** Clean interior ***
[20 mins] Clean interior windows/glass and rear-view mirror using the green tight-weave Der Wunder microfibre cloth + Stoner's Invisible Glass Aerosol Can. I haven't tried the spray bottle version and can't comment on its effectiveness. Do not use Stoner's on tint - use just plain water and the tight-weave microfibre and it should work just fine.
[20 mins] Vacuum leather seats and all surfaces thoroughly using appropriate vacuum attachments. If you have time, undo the 4 bolts for each of the front 2 seats, then you can tilt them back without disconnecting any harnesses and clean underneath them.
[5 mins] Replace seat filters, cabin air filter, and rear AC trunk filter.
[120 mins] Remove floormats and vacuum thoroughly. Hot water soak in bathtub (just enough water to cover them), then apply liquid laundry detergent and scrub thoroughly with a stiff carpet brush. Rinse very thoroughly with warm-hot water while scrubbing to ensure that all soap residue is removed. If you have a shower wand with a high-pressure blast feature, use it. Leftover soap residue will attract dirt. Stand them up in the bathtub and put an oscillating fan on them, or hang dry. It will take a day or so to dry.
[30 mins] Soak 1 or 2 tight-weave microfibre cloths in water, wring out most of the water, then wipe down everything non-leather (steering wheel, instrument cluster, nav screen, wood grain, shift ****, etc.) The tight-weave green Der Wunder microfibre is amazing at pulling dirt out of surfaces using just plain water. Try cleaning your bathroom mirror with it and plain water and you'll see what I mean.
[30 mins] Use Z-9 Leather Cleaner and the white microfibre cloth to remove grime from all leather surfaces. I have mild dye transfer from my leather jacket, so this involved a lot of scrubbing on the driver seat. By using the white microfibre cloth, you can see your progress in removing the stains.
[30 mins] Use Z-10 Leather Conditioner to replenish the oils in all leather surfaces. Apply liberally with a white microfibre cloth and leave all the windows/sunroof open so it can air out. Otherwise, it could condense on the windows and form a film. If your leather needs extra cleaning or replenishment, Leatherique products are reportedly the best.
[15 mins] Clean the inside of door jambs with a dampened throwaway rag to remove excess grime, then do it over again with a throwaway rag and Z-AIO (general purpose paint cleaner, contains fine abrasives for cleaning power and provides some paint protection and shine)
*** Remove contaminants and old sealant/wax from paint ***
[30 mins] Wash car with soft sheepskin mitt, using 1 bucket of Z-7 car shampoo mix (5 capfuls for a 10L bucket) and 1 bucket of plain water. After each soap application, agitate the mitt in the clean bucket to rinse the grit off before resoaping. Also, start with the cleanest surfaces (windows/top of car) and end at the dirtiest (front and lower panels of car). This prevents grit from getting into your main wash bucket, which would add swirls to the paint. Don't let soap dry on the car - do this in the shade or on a cool day if possible. It is safe to hose off the underneath of the car using a garden hose to remove winter salt. Not sure if it's safe with a pressure washer.
On final rinse, set your nozzle to maximum flow/lowest spray dispersion, to enable water to sheet off the car, drying it faster. Dry with a clean towel. I don't recommend using a leaf blower because this blasts unfiltered air (containing airborne contaminants such as pollen) into your paint.
I don't agree with the common Dawn dish soap process for removing old wax/sealants. Dawn is very effective at drying out rubber trim, which would lead to cracking or increased wind noise due to a weaker seal. Safer to claybar the old sealants off the paint. Dawn website specifically says not to use it to wash cars.
[10 mins] Wash tires with a throwaway rag, then apply Z-16 (tire gloss) using a foam sponge (like the ones for quick-shining shoes - not the 3M dish sponges, they crumble apart).
[30 mins] For those with the chrome wheels, wipedown with a dampened throwaway rag to remove the heavy grime and oil. Then with a smaller throwaway non-scratching rag, thoroughly apply Mother's Chrome Polish and rub it in thoroughly to clean. Allow 10-20mins to dry to a haze, then buff to a shine with a clean cotton throwaway rag. No need to waste expensive towels on wheels.
[5 hours] Claybar entire car using Z-18 claybar and Z-7 carwash as claylube. This can also remove contamination/overspray on the tailight plastic lenses. This year I picked up some Blue Riccardo clay for testing, and after some use, it totally falls apart, just like when you chew gum and eat food at the same time (I'm sure most of us did that as kids), and the gum falls apart. It starts disintegrating, doesn't stick to itself, and becomes too weak to pull contaminants out of the paint. The Z-18 claybar doesn't have this problem - I highly recommend it.
[30 mins] Rewash with Z-7 per above, or rinse claybar residue off the paint using a big bucket of water and a clean cotton towel.
*** Perform paint correction prior to applying sealants ***
[6 hours] For minor swirls/scratches, remove them from the paint using a Porter Cable 7424XP, White Lake Country Pad, and Menzerna PO203S. I use a mobile dual-tube, dual fixture fluorescent light combined with a handheld Brinkmann 800-2280-0 LED spotlight to locate swirls. Use 3M Blue Painter's Tape to tape off the trim - there will be very fine white dust particles coming from the polish. For heavier swirls/scratches, you'll need a 2-step process (ie. Meguiar's M105 w/Orange pad, then M205 with White pad).
You will need to apply 15-20lbs of pressure and ramp up to 5.5-6 on the speed dial for the polish to work effectively. After each panel, buff with a clean towel, then check the pad for excessive dusting and brush dust from the pad using a toothbrush (or blast with compressed air if you are wearing a NIOSH-approved dust mask). After the car is done, wipe down all buffed surfaces with 50/50 water/90+% alcohol mix to confirm that swirls have been removed, and to remove polish residues/oils/fillers.
[10 mins] Remove swirls from the black door pillars using PO203S and the White pad. Tape off the surrounding areas beforehand.
[10 mins] Remove tape residue all over the car using green microfibre cloth lightly dampened with water.
*** Start the paint protection process ***
[60 mins] Prep the paint for sealants using a base coat of Z-AIO. Buff off with clean cotton towel.
[60 mins] Apply ZFX-enabled Z-5 (sealant with mild swirl fillers) with cotton border-free applicator. The first coat takes the longest to work in - the second coat goes on much faster, and likewise for the next layers. It will take 2 clean cotton towels to buff off correctly.
[15 mins] Wipedown with Z-6 (quick detailer) and a fresh cotton towel. The Z-6 wipedown removes excess polish and helps buff in the Z-5.
[40 mins] Apply another coat of ZFX-enabled Z-5. Buff off with 2 fresh cotton towels.
[60 mins] Apply 1 coat of ZFX-enabled Z-2 (sealant without fillers, just high optical reflectivity). ZFX isn't required if you let the Z-5 bond overnight. Buff off with 2 fresh towels, and then do the Z-6 wipedown again with another fresh towel.
[30 mins] Apply Z-CS (top layer sealant, provides up to 9 months of paint protection) per instructions (wipe on, no buffing).
[12 hours] Wait 12 hours.
[30 mins] Apply Z-8 (high-end quick detailer, more expensive and glossier than Z-6, not for regular use). Z-8 is tough to use at first (smudges and leaves residue if you use too much or don't buff on properly). You will need your fluorescent lights and handheld LEDs to make sure you are applying it correctly. Instructions say to make it easier to use, you can dilute Z-8 with 1 part distilled water to 2 parts Z-8. However, it looks best at original concentration.
[15 mins] Clean exterior glass/mirrors using green tight-weave microfibre cloth and Stoner's Invisible Glass Aerosol Can. This is the last step because you will probably get the glass dirty in the previous steps.
That's all there is to it! Now the car has maximum shine and protection and looks better than brand new (minus front-end rock chips). Unfortunately I don't have pictures, but trust me, it looks really good.
To maintain this look, every few days or whenever the car gets dirty, wash with Z-7 car wash, shine with Z-6 quick detailer, use Stoner's Invisible Glass + tight-weave microfibre on the exterior glass, clean the tires with Z-16 tire gloss, and then reshine the chrome wheels with Mother's Chrome Polish.
Total time: 3 days. Given times are approximate and depends on the amount of work needed for your specific situation. My car never had any swirl removal performed, and it was about 2 years since my last claybarring, so those parts took a long time.
Any questions please ask. Hope this wasn't too hard to read.
Last edited by StanVanDam; 06-10-11 at 08:51 PM. Reason: typo
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Isack4 (02-08-18)
06-10-11, 11:49 AM
#2
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geez now thats some serious stuff. i've only clay bar-d my LS 2 times and each time it took close to 5 hours to wash it, clay bar it, and then wax it. i thought i was doing something wrong for it to take this long but it seems that it took you this long too.
i wish we were neighbors i would pay you for some of your services. nice write up.
i wish we were neighbors i would pay you for some of your services. nice write up.
06-10-11, 12:31 PM
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Mvp
It's folks like StanVanDam that make this board as great as it is. He continually offers insight and observations that benefit all the members of this community. God Bless and keep the contributions coming.
06-10-11, 05:35 PM
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Holy Flippin' Schnikes! Another Zaino man on CL!
In over thirty years of applying wax, I've never found anything easier to work with or a product that delivers better results.
All hail, DanVanStam, er ...
In over thirty years of applying wax, I've never found anything easier to work with or a product that delivers better results.
All hail, DanVanStam, er ...
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06-11-11, 04:44 AM
#9
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Wow quite the writeup. A lot of the information you have provided is incorrect though...especially for an LS with soft japanese clearcoat,
If you guys want to learn more about the proper care of your cars, visit a detailing site like www.detailingbliss.com www.live2detail.com and the forums at www.autopia.org .
For all steps involving buffing or towels on paint, use only 100% Made in USA white border-free cotton towels. The following can put swirls in your paint:
* 100% cotton towels made elsewhere (reportedly not 100% cotton)
* borders on towels
* non-white towels
* microfibre
This is incorrect. Quality microfibre towels (not the ones you get at costco or BJ's) are the only type of towel that should ever be used on paint. you need to have a specific set of these and use them for nothing but paintwork. Cotton towels are great for cleaning leather seats but do not pull dirt away from the surface and into its "nap" the way that quality microfiber does
[20 mins] Clean interior windows/glass and rear-view mirror using the green tight-weave Der Wunder microfibre cloth + Stoner's Invisible Glass Aerosol Can. I haven't tried the spray bottle version and can't comment on its effectiveness. Do not use Stoner's on tint - use just plain water and the tight-weave microfibre and it should work just fine.
Stoners IG is designed to be used with any type of window tint. It does not contain ammonia which is what will cause window tint film to turn a purple color and eventually bubble away from the glass surface. Water does work fine especially hot water, but steam is actually best for non chemical window cleaning.
[120 mins] Remove floormats and vacuum thoroughly. Hot water soak in bathtub (just enough water to cover them), then apply liquid laundry detergent and scrub thoroughly with a stiff carpet brush. Rinse very thoroughly with warm-hot water while scrubbing to ensure that all soap residue is removed. If you have a shower wand with a high-pressure blast feature, use it. Leftover soap residue will attract dirt. Stand them up in the bathtub and put an oscillating fan on them, or hang dry. It will take a day or so to dry.
Soaking your matts is not needed at all. Any carpet surface should be pre-treated with carpet cleaner / spot remover if so required. Then a bucket with hot soapy water should be the only water source for scrubbing with. If your matts are in really bad shape then you can powerwash them after scrubbing with the soapy water.
[30 mins] Use Z-10 Leather Conditioner to replenish the oils in all leather surfaces. Apply liberally with a white microfibre cloth and leave all the windows/sunroof open so it can air out. Otherwise, it could condense on the windows and form a film. If your leather needs extra cleaning or replenishment, Leatherique products are reportedly the best.
Leather "conditioners" all work best in a heated environment. Both Leather Masters and Leatherique which are the best two leather care providers recommend allowing the product to be worked into the seats and heated either via sun or via use of a heatgun for a period of at least 1 hour (many leave leatherique overnight since the leatherique system is the only one that requires you to use the "conditioner" before the cleaner). There are many detailers that use a heat gun with these products as to not leave a clients car parked in the sun to bake for hours. This also creates problems since washing, polishing, and waxing all need to be done using a cool paint surface. You should not be getting a residue on your windows from a leather product.
[30 mins] Wash car with soft sheepskin mitt, using 1 bucket of Z-7 car shampoo mix (5 capfuls for a 10L bucket) and 1 bucket of plain water. After each soap application, agitate the mitt in the clean bucket to rinse the grit off before resoaping. Also, start with the cleanest surfaces (windows/top of car) and end at the dirtiest (front and lower panels of car). This prevents grit from getting into your main wash bucket, which would add swirls to the paint. Don't let soap dry on the car - do this in the shade or on a cool day if possible. It is safe to hose off the underneath of the car using a garden hose to remove winter salt. Not sure if it's safe with a pressure washer.
Yes it is safe to wash a vehicle utilizing a pressure washer under 3000 psi. It is actually recomended to rinse the vehicle off prior to a two bucket wash to remove as many loose contaminates as possible.
On final rinse, set your nozzle to maximum flow/lowest spray dispersion, to enable water to sheet off the car, drying it faster. Dry with a clean towel. I don't recommend using a leaf blower because this blasts unfiltered air (containing airborne contaminants such as pollen) into your paint.
Remove your nozzle completely and use only "hose flow" as your final rinse. This is the best sheeting method. Gas powered blowers are not safe for drying, however a dedicated electric blower is one of the most efficient ways to dry the car and will be the best way to remove excess water from the cracks and behind trim.
[5 hours] Claybar entire car using Z-18 claybar and Z-7 carwash as claylube. This can also remove contamination/overspray on the tailight plastic lenses. This year I picked up some Blue Riccardo clay for testing, and after some use, it totally falls apart, just like when you chew gum and eat food at the same time (I'm sure most of us did that as kids), and the gum falls apart. It starts disintegrating, doesn't stick to itself, and becomes too weak to pull contaminants out of the paint. The Z-18 claybar doesn't have this problem - I highly recommend it.
If your claybar is falling apart your lube solution is too strong. The best clay lube option is a mixture of Optimum No Rinse and Distilled water. Blue Riccardo is much more aggressive than yellow Riccardo and should only be used when polishing will follow which in this case it did.
You will need to apply 15-20lbs of pressure and ramp up to 5.5-6 on the speed dial for the polish to work effectively. After each panel, buff with a clean towel, then check the pad for excessive dusting and brush dust from the pad using a toothbrush (or blast with compressed air if you are wearing a NIOSH-approved dust mask). After the car is done, wipe down all buffed surfaces with 50/50 water/90+% alcohol mix to confirm that swirls have been removed, and to remove polish residues/oils/fillers.
This is accurate. Just make sure to again have quality microfiber towels dedicated to ONLY polish removal. You should keep a set of towels for removing wax, a set for removing polish, and a set for dirty jobs (wheels and exhaust tips etc..).
[60 mins] Prep the paint for sealants using a base coat of Z-AIO. Buff off with clean cotton towel.
Again, make sure to use a dedicated QUALITY microfiber for wax and sealant removal. The cheap ones are only for dirty jobs.
* 100% cotton towels made elsewhere (reportedly not 100% cotton)
* borders on towels
* non-white towels
* microfibre
This is incorrect. Quality microfibre towels (not the ones you get at costco or BJ's) are the only type of towel that should ever be used on paint. you need to have a specific set of these and use them for nothing but paintwork. Cotton towels are great for cleaning leather seats but do not pull dirt away from the surface and into its "nap" the way that quality microfiber does
[20 mins] Clean interior windows/glass and rear-view mirror using the green tight-weave Der Wunder microfibre cloth + Stoner's Invisible Glass Aerosol Can. I haven't tried the spray bottle version and can't comment on its effectiveness. Do not use Stoner's on tint - use just plain water and the tight-weave microfibre and it should work just fine.
Stoners IG is designed to be used with any type of window tint. It does not contain ammonia which is what will cause window tint film to turn a purple color and eventually bubble away from the glass surface. Water does work fine especially hot water, but steam is actually best for non chemical window cleaning.
[120 mins] Remove floormats and vacuum thoroughly. Hot water soak in bathtub (just enough water to cover them), then apply liquid laundry detergent and scrub thoroughly with a stiff carpet brush. Rinse very thoroughly with warm-hot water while scrubbing to ensure that all soap residue is removed. If you have a shower wand with a high-pressure blast feature, use it. Leftover soap residue will attract dirt. Stand them up in the bathtub and put an oscillating fan on them, or hang dry. It will take a day or so to dry.
Soaking your matts is not needed at all. Any carpet surface should be pre-treated with carpet cleaner / spot remover if so required. Then a bucket with hot soapy water should be the only water source for scrubbing with. If your matts are in really bad shape then you can powerwash them after scrubbing with the soapy water.
[30 mins] Use Z-10 Leather Conditioner to replenish the oils in all leather surfaces. Apply liberally with a white microfibre cloth and leave all the windows/sunroof open so it can air out. Otherwise, it could condense on the windows and form a film. If your leather needs extra cleaning or replenishment, Leatherique products are reportedly the best.
Leather "conditioners" all work best in a heated environment. Both Leather Masters and Leatherique which are the best two leather care providers recommend allowing the product to be worked into the seats and heated either via sun or via use of a heatgun for a period of at least 1 hour (many leave leatherique overnight since the leatherique system is the only one that requires you to use the "conditioner" before the cleaner). There are many detailers that use a heat gun with these products as to not leave a clients car parked in the sun to bake for hours. This also creates problems since washing, polishing, and waxing all need to be done using a cool paint surface. You should not be getting a residue on your windows from a leather product.
[30 mins] Wash car with soft sheepskin mitt, using 1 bucket of Z-7 car shampoo mix (5 capfuls for a 10L bucket) and 1 bucket of plain water. After each soap application, agitate the mitt in the clean bucket to rinse the grit off before resoaping. Also, start with the cleanest surfaces (windows/top of car) and end at the dirtiest (front and lower panels of car). This prevents grit from getting into your main wash bucket, which would add swirls to the paint. Don't let soap dry on the car - do this in the shade or on a cool day if possible. It is safe to hose off the underneath of the car using a garden hose to remove winter salt. Not sure if it's safe with a pressure washer.
Yes it is safe to wash a vehicle utilizing a pressure washer under 3000 psi. It is actually recomended to rinse the vehicle off prior to a two bucket wash to remove as many loose contaminates as possible.
On final rinse, set your nozzle to maximum flow/lowest spray dispersion, to enable water to sheet off the car, drying it faster. Dry with a clean towel. I don't recommend using a leaf blower because this blasts unfiltered air (containing airborne contaminants such as pollen) into your paint.
Remove your nozzle completely and use only "hose flow" as your final rinse. This is the best sheeting method. Gas powered blowers are not safe for drying, however a dedicated electric blower is one of the most efficient ways to dry the car and will be the best way to remove excess water from the cracks and behind trim.
[5 hours] Claybar entire car using Z-18 claybar and Z-7 carwash as claylube. This can also remove contamination/overspray on the tailight plastic lenses. This year I picked up some Blue Riccardo clay for testing, and after some use, it totally falls apart, just like when you chew gum and eat food at the same time (I'm sure most of us did that as kids), and the gum falls apart. It starts disintegrating, doesn't stick to itself, and becomes too weak to pull contaminants out of the paint. The Z-18 claybar doesn't have this problem - I highly recommend it.
If your claybar is falling apart your lube solution is too strong. The best clay lube option is a mixture of Optimum No Rinse and Distilled water. Blue Riccardo is much more aggressive than yellow Riccardo and should only be used when polishing will follow which in this case it did.
You will need to apply 15-20lbs of pressure and ramp up to 5.5-6 on the speed dial for the polish to work effectively. After each panel, buff with a clean towel, then check the pad for excessive dusting and brush dust from the pad using a toothbrush (or blast with compressed air if you are wearing a NIOSH-approved dust mask). After the car is done, wipe down all buffed surfaces with 50/50 water/90+% alcohol mix to confirm that swirls have been removed, and to remove polish residues/oils/fillers.
This is accurate. Just make sure to again have quality microfiber towels dedicated to ONLY polish removal. You should keep a set of towels for removing wax, a set for removing polish, and a set for dirty jobs (wheels and exhaust tips etc..).
[60 mins] Prep the paint for sealants using a base coat of Z-AIO. Buff off with clean cotton towel.
Again, make sure to use a dedicated QUALITY microfiber for wax and sealant removal. The cheap ones are only for dirty jobs.
Last edited by froboy272; 06-11-11 at 05:17 AM.
06-13-11, 11:12 AM
#12
Recovering Lexus Addict
I used to be a lot more **** about detailing, but now both of my cars are daily drivers. I have trouble justifying the time and effort, as relaxing as it is, to spend too much time detailing a vehicle that will be covered in rain spatters, bug guts, and road grime after a couple daily commutes.
06-13-11, 12:59 PM
#13
Moderator
Stan - excellent writeup - great advice. The person posting additional suggestions proves that no matter how detailed someone is, there is always someone else even more crazed and exacting : ) - what do the kiddies say?...its all good.
I keep my cars super clean but don't take it to extremes mostly because the cars are daily drivers, and it seems they just get chipped and scratched anyway no matter how careful I am or how far away from everyone else I park. I never park under trees - the birds are not my friend.
I keep my cars super clean but don't take it to extremes mostly because the cars are daily drivers, and it seems they just get chipped and scratched anyway no matter how careful I am or how far away from everyone else I park. I never park under trees - the birds are not my friend.
06-13-11, 03:19 PM
#14
Recovering Lexus Addict
07-07-11, 04:23 PM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Several of the techniques are subject to user preference and by saying "a lot of the information is incorrect", you present yourself as presumptuous, uninformed of alternate solutions, and/or biased towards certain techniques. You've only identified 3 "incorrect" processes, and I think you misread the other. I'll provide my angle on the "incorrect" items..
If you are saying 100% cotton should never be used on paint, you are certainly incorrect. For those in doubt, get a set of each, feel the differences in each, and figure out for yourself which could possibly put swirls into your paint. Microfibre captures grit, keeps it close to the surface, and is harder to remove from the cloth by simple shaking. I recommended using cotton for these reasons. And my writeup already said to use microfibre for the leather..
The bottle specifically says safe for "most" tint. Not "all" tint. You should recognize that IG is a powerful cleaning agent and possibly unsafe for tint. If you want to play it safe, use the least aggressive method to achieve your desired results. Anyone doing paint/glass/plastic correction knows this. In 2004, someone already took the step of contacting Stoner about this:
I just called Stoner, and their response about tint is:
1) They recommend not using Invisible glass on tint over five years old.
2) They caution to check with your tint manufacture before using.
Source: http://forums.focaljet.com/focus-det...ml#post4611239
I have the Ecru (light beige) mats, and I use my car all year round in Canada. I go camping, drive my car through the woods, on grass, on dirt roads, play several outdoor sports, rain and shine. Lots of road grease, dirt, grass, salt, etc tracked in from multiple occupants including myself every week. The carpet is far from light beige after a few weeks of thorough cleaning.
I've tried various cleaning agents, hot soapy water, hot water extractor, steam cleaner, pressure washer. None of them were able to get the carpets clean enough to my standards. The most thorough way I've found to get them as clean as possible, using commonly available household items and just a bit of elbow grease, is the method I've described above.
Zaino's leather conditioner is formulated to work in environments that are not abnormally heated. I simply didn't need the *extra* cleaning/replenishment by using a heated environment and/or other products. For the extra cleaning/replenishment, apply the products, cover the leather surfaces with black garbage bags, leave the car in the sun and let the heat work in.
It is correct that you *should not* be getting a film on the windows from leather products. However, leather products do evaporate quickly, and when this occurs with the windows up and no ventilation, they *could* condense and form a film (perhaps completely invisible) on the windows. Obviously these airborne chemicals don't decompose into plain air. When you are not doing a heated application, you can get rid of the excessive leather scent and potential film build-up by leaving the windows/sunroof open.
My preceding sentence was referring to washing the vehicle underbody.. I said I am not sure if using a pressure washer on the underbody is safe. Do your own risk analysis on the potential of salt damage versus the potential of pressure washer damage.
I have a nozzle with multiple settings and chose the one most closest to "hose flow". If you don't have such a setting, remove the nozzle altogether, or if you don't want to do that, that's fine too. It will only save you 60 seconds of drying time and maybe half a towel's worth of water anyway.
Perhaps my solution was too strong for the Blue Riccardo, but it was the perfect concentration for the Z-18. I used the exact same lube solution and concentration with both claybars. Without strong evidence, I would not say anything out there is the "best" clay lube. It depends on the composition of your claybar and your personal definition of "best". Use a solution that creates a slick surface for the claybar to glide across. Zaino recommends using their mild car shampoo mixed with water. If your water is hard (let's say above 300mg/L or 17 grains per gallon), use distilled water. My water is soft, at 32mg/L (2 grains per gallon), so distilled water wasn't necessary for me. Definitely do not use only water with the claybar and don't use a dish soap + water mix.
Fully agree, I've read all of those forums thoroughly over the past 5 years, which is how I developed my process. I would also add www.detailedimage.com to the top of that list - their writing style, written details, and pictures are top notch.
This is incorrect. Quality microfibre towels (not the ones you get at costco or BJ's) are the only type of towel that should ever be used on paint. you need to have a specific set of these and use them for nothing but paintwork. Cotton towels are great for cleaning leather seats but do not pull dirt away from the surface and into its "nap" the way that quality microfiber does
Stoners IG is designed to be used with any type of window tint. It does not contain ammonia which is what will cause window tint film to turn a purple color and eventually bubble away from the glass surface. Water does work fine especially hot water, but steam is actually best for non chemical window cleaning.
I just called Stoner, and their response about tint is:
1) They recommend not using Invisible glass on tint over five years old.
2) They caution to check with your tint manufacture before using.
Source: http://forums.focaljet.com/focus-det...ml#post4611239
Soaking your matts is not needed at all. Any carpet surface should be pre-treated with carpet cleaner / spot remover if so required. Then a bucket with hot soapy water should be the only water source for scrubbing with. If your matts are in really bad shape then you can powerwash them after scrubbing with the soapy water.
I've tried various cleaning agents, hot soapy water, hot water extractor, steam cleaner, pressure washer. None of them were able to get the carpets clean enough to my standards. The most thorough way I've found to get them as clean as possible, using commonly available household items and just a bit of elbow grease, is the method I've described above.
Leather "conditioners" all work best in a heated environment...
It is correct that you *should not* be getting a film on the windows from leather products. However, leather products do evaporate quickly, and when this occurs with the windows up and no ventilation, they *could* condense and form a film (perhaps completely invisible) on the windows. Obviously these airborne chemicals don't decompose into plain air. When you are not doing a heated application, you can get rid of the excessive leather scent and potential film build-up by leaving the windows/sunroof open.
Yes it is safe to wash a vehicle utilizing a pressure washer under 3000 psi.
Remove your nozzle completely and use only "hose flow" as your final rinse. This is the best sheeting method. Gas powered blowers are not safe for drying, however a dedicated electric blower is one of the most efficient ways to dry the car and will be the best way to remove excess water from the cracks and behind trim.
If your claybar is falling apart your lube solution is too strong. The best clay lube option is a mixture of Optimum No Rinse and Distilled water. Blue Riccardo is much more aggressive than yellow Riccardo and should only be used when polishing will follow which in this case it did.
If you guys want to learn more about the proper care of your cars, visit a detailing site like www.detailingbliss.com www.live2detail.com and the forums at www.autopia.org