Steering TELESCOPE FAILING - 2004 LS430
#76
Lexus Test Driver
roger that.......mine would chirp and barely move at all.....I tried the bushing trick w no success. I eventually just purchased a new motor....when everything is disconnected and u can manually pull the wheel in and out then re attach to get lube working and the motor at the correct throw I think most of them will work again. I certainly dont want to do that repair again.......thanks for the reply
#78
Been over a year since I did mine....but everytime I read about the " bushing " I think you are working on the wrong function......as I recall the bushing ( yes i bought and tried one too ) ....the bushing is for tilt not telescope.....I could be wrong there....would have to go outside and see if 2 separate threaded shafts. But to answer your question.........I would be willing to bet that at least 50 percent of the motors that we think are bad are not....the are simply bound up....and need to be disconnected from rod.....then run and re connect......orrrrrrrr while connected needs to be manually pulled all the way out then turned on and let the motor pull the wheel back in. I have tried to explain this in previous posts.
Note.....remember I said I bought a new motor and installed....once installed it still didnt work.....I manually pulled all the way out which put the motor in the correct throw.......then ran it again and it worked like a charm....
Its a tricky repair....good luck
Note.....remember I said I bought a new motor and installed....once installed it still didnt work.....I manually pulled all the way out which put the motor in the correct throw.......then ran it again and it worked like a charm....
Its a tricky repair....good luck
It is currently all lubed up. I will try the extend and retract after I have the screw released from the bushing.
It's the brass piece i'm concerned about.
#79
Well my gut was correct. I had a feeling the motor was getting too weak to function under load. Now it is completely dead. Performed the diagnostic procedure according to the FSM and it is dead.
I had ordered one the other day so I i'll go pick it up this morning. I'll keep you posted.
I had ordered one the other day so I i'll go pick it up this morning. I'll keep you posted.
#80
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by toyo
Well my gut was correct. I had a feeling the motor was getting too weak to function under load. Now it is completely dead. Performed the diagnostic procedure according to the FSM and it is dead.
I had ordered one the other day so I i'll go pick it up this morning. I'll keep you posted.
I had ordered one the other day so I i'll go pick it up this morning. I'll keep you posted.
Good to hear you got it solved
#83
Driver School Candidate
I found this thread to be very helpful, but it didn't quite solve my problem.
As many have also experienced, I had a faint squeaking noise. Thinking that I simply needed to lube the gears (specifically the one for the telescoping feature) I did so, but the squeak and operation of the telescope feature did not improve. In fact, it got worse...
When lubing the gear responsible for telescoping, I apparently pushed a small piece of worn rubber into the screw type gear that twists for telescoping. The rubber, pictured below, holds the metal receptacle, the 'nut', that the screw type gear 'pulls' in and out when telescoping. It turned out that this small rubber fitting had become quite worn and not only allowed the metal 'nut' to shift and bind, but had physically obstructed the movement and increased the work required by the telescope motor to the point where it periodically no longer worked.
The attached pictures are:
1. The worn rubber grommet (part # 45768-60011)
2. The "nut" that is held in place by the grommet that telescope motor screws in and out to telescope the wheel
3. the two pieces together as they appear on the side of the steering wheel (without the clamp that goes over them [held in place by two 10mm bolts])
4. The lexus parts diagram showing the breakdown.
I replaced 45768 (45768-60011 -- less than $3) and there is no longer a squeak, no binding and the telescope works perfectly again. I think that lubing the gears may help avoid the binding and malfunction that a worn grommet causes, but that may not fix it in the long term (although hopefully I'm wrong on this for those that aren't having any more problems!)
Thanks for the great thread, never would have figured this all out on my own...
As many have also experienced, I had a faint squeaking noise. Thinking that I simply needed to lube the gears (specifically the one for the telescoping feature) I did so, but the squeak and operation of the telescope feature did not improve. In fact, it got worse...
When lubing the gear responsible for telescoping, I apparently pushed a small piece of worn rubber into the screw type gear that twists for telescoping. The rubber, pictured below, holds the metal receptacle, the 'nut', that the screw type gear 'pulls' in and out when telescoping. It turned out that this small rubber fitting had become quite worn and not only allowed the metal 'nut' to shift and bind, but had physically obstructed the movement and increased the work required by the telescope motor to the point where it periodically no longer worked.
The attached pictures are:
1. The worn rubber grommet (part # 45768-60011)
2. The "nut" that is held in place by the grommet that telescope motor screws in and out to telescope the wheel
3. the two pieces together as they appear on the side of the steering wheel (without the clamp that goes over them [held in place by two 10mm bolts])
4. The lexus parts diagram showing the breakdown.
I replaced 45768 (45768-60011 -- less than $3) and there is no longer a squeak, no binding and the telescope works perfectly again. I think that lubing the gears may help avoid the binding and malfunction that a worn grommet causes, but that may not fix it in the long term (although hopefully I'm wrong on this for those that aren't having any more problems!)
Thanks for the great thread, never would have figured this all out on my own...
And I appreciate your pictures... if I can get the two bolts off they will help me make sure I get it back correctly.
#84
Intermediate
Mine broke the other day too 168,000kms. Was getting weaker in last few days. I've previously replaced the rubber bushing so motor is broken. I've ordered a new one. Up down tilt still motor still works thank goodness.
#85
Reading this whole thread, and wanting to ask:
What about Worm Drives? When I bought my first LS430, I stopped by Lexus of Riverside, CA, where an experienced service advisor told me sometimes the squeak is the worm drive. Fast forward to now where I have a 2004 LS430, and the motors make the squeak, but if I hit the button 3 times or so in either direction, the motors work fine for both tilt and telescope. I de-activated the auto retract first thing on both cars.
**The question is this: The worm drives are cheaper and easier to get to, but has anyone ever replaced just those and had it work?? My motors work better in the cold, but I am curious if my problems would be solved by only replacing the worm drives, and not the motors?!? Anyone?
What about Worm Drives? When I bought my first LS430, I stopped by Lexus of Riverside, CA, where an experienced service advisor told me sometimes the squeak is the worm drive. Fast forward to now where I have a 2004 LS430, and the motors make the squeak, but if I hit the button 3 times or so in either direction, the motors work fine for both tilt and telescope. I de-activated the auto retract first thing on both cars.
**The question is this: The worm drives are cheaper and easier to get to, but has anyone ever replaced just those and had it work?? My motors work better in the cold, but I am curious if my problems would be solved by only replacing the worm drives, and not the motors?!? Anyone?
#86
Yes you can Stop the rear shade
I wanted to stop the constant movement of the rear shade when reversing. I simply accessed the trunk fuse block and yanked the center fuse. Now the shade is up all the time.
John
John
#87
**The question is this: The worm drives are cheaper and easier to get to, but has anyone ever replaced just those and had it work?? My motors work better in the cold, but I am curious if my problems would be solved by only replacing the worm drives, and not the motors?!? Anyone?
John
#88
How to Manually Exercise Telescope Motor? 2004
This a well-worn thread, I know. (Pun not intended!) So here's where I am...
I bought the rubber bushing - and right now the clamp, old bushing and nut are removed. The worm-gear is therefore floating in free-space on the universal-joint coupling. However, far from spinning freely, the motor still just makes a chirp and doesn't really move in either direction. (I initially thought the squeaking noise was the trashed bushing rotating and binding up in the clamp; alas not.) Attempting to twist the worm-gear at the same time as operating the control does sometimes give a small amount of rotation.
I've met pancake print motors before, in professional tape recorders, and - despite the brushes - those things went on for years and years of daily use. Clearly, these motors do not take kindly to repeated cycling over a small rotational angle. (Is the damage permanent, I wonder? Would it be beneficial to attempt to free it up by turning it manually? In which case, what side square drive/screwdriver slot is needed?)
I can't shift the column manually at all. Yes, I've sprayed some white lithium grease onto the inner section in the hope that it might penetrate the two layers. I wonder if a siezing column is really the root cause?
(Interesting also to note that this car has had three telescope motors at various main dealers!)
Update: I reinstalled the clamp with new bush and gave up. (Not quite so easy with the column stuck fully-retracted, but reasonably accessible nonetheless.)
I bought the rubber bushing - and right now the clamp, old bushing and nut are removed. The worm-gear is therefore floating in free-space on the universal-joint coupling. However, far from spinning freely, the motor still just makes a chirp and doesn't really move in either direction. (I initially thought the squeaking noise was the trashed bushing rotating and binding up in the clamp; alas not.) Attempting to twist the worm-gear at the same time as operating the control does sometimes give a small amount of rotation.
I've met pancake print motors before, in professional tape recorders, and - despite the brushes - those things went on for years and years of daily use. Clearly, these motors do not take kindly to repeated cycling over a small rotational angle. (Is the damage permanent, I wonder? Would it be beneficial to attempt to free it up by turning it manually? In which case, what side square drive/screwdriver slot is needed?)
I can't shift the column manually at all. Yes, I've sprayed some white lithium grease onto the inner section in the hope that it might penetrate the two layers. I wonder if a siezing column is really the root cause?
(Interesting also to note that this car has had three telescope motors at various main dealers!)
Update: I reinstalled the clamp with new bush and gave up. (Not quite so easy with the column stuck fully-retracted, but reasonably accessible nonetheless.)
Last edited by VolumeToo; 05-14-22 at 07:35 AM.
#89
Put your Back and upper body weight into it!
#90
Throw your weight into moving the uncoupled column to get it freed up. I weigh 200 Lbs and I had to grab the wheel and throw myself into the seat to get the column to initially move. After multiple time performing this, the mechanism freed up but never got easy. I drove for a week with it disconnected and never did it move by accident. It is that stiff to move. I also used Techstream and turned the feature OFF that moves the column every time the ignition is switch. If I need to move the column for a little comfort, I just actuate the switch. I use this every few months, saving the motor from useless actuation.
I was scared of breaking the steering wheel or its fixing, TBH!