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I have been taught a lesson a while back. "The rich can go out and buy about anything they want, but ONLY THE WEALTHY can keep it and maintain it." Just food for thought.

About the speakers, original ML sub didn't work from the beginning and both front speakers were ripped so I wanted to get as close as possible to ML sound but maybe a little better and louder.
Since I put new Michelins and CrossDrilled rotors and ceramic pads, braking and handling improved significantly, I do not regret buying and installing them.
All in all it was about $2000 to fix problems and another ~$2500-3000 for maintenance and "toys" which most of them are paid for once and for a long time.
Before buying such a sophisticated car I did alot of research and basically was prepared for high maintenance costs.
About the speakers, original ML sub didn't work from the beginning and both front speakers were ripped so I wanted to get as close as possible to ML sound but maybe a little better and louder.
Since I put new Michelins and CrossDrilled rotors and ceramic pads, braking and handling improved significantly, I do not regret buying and installing them.
All in all it was about $2000 to fix problems and another ~$2500-3000 for maintenance and "toys" which most of them are paid for once and for a long time.
Before buying such a sophisticated car I did alot of research and basically was prepared for high maintenance costs.
I am hard on brakes, as is my wife. We have a lot of stop signs between home and work. I'd love to know more about the rotors and ceramic brake pads. I've always used Toyota brake pads as I thought they were the best, but I may have been mis-lead. They are "pricey" enough, but I'd love to know a better alternative to them like the ceramic pads. I don't know anything about the drilled out rotors. ???????
Thanks for the advice and information.
I am hard on brakes, as is my wife. We have a lot of stop signs between home and work. I'd love to know more about the rotors and ceramic brake pads. I've always used Toyota brake pads as I thought they were the best, but I may have been mis-lead. They are "pricey" enough, but I'd love to know a better alternative to them like the ceramic pads. I don't know anything about the drilled out rotors. ???????
Thanks for the advice and information.

ML sub and speakers are a weak spot of the 430, so if your speakers are good you might consider dynamatting all doors and rear deck, the difference is remarkable, you get more sound in the car and it's much tighter.
The reason why I did not get oem rotors was because two oem fron rotors were around $500 without pads. I paid $380 for four cross drilled cadmium plated (for rust protection) rotors and four sets of pads. With instalation total was around $500. You can get a similar kit off eBay. Regular oem Toyota pads make rotors overheat with continuous braking so after awhile rotors get warped and you get steering wheel vibration as you step on the brakes. That's what happened to me. New rotors and pads are much more grippy and bite in harder especially warmed up. That saved me from *******s cutting me off badly and slamming brakes because traffic stopped. I'd definitely rear end 'em with stock brakes.
4-24-2014 UPDATE - (2) Disconnected negative battery terminal for 10 min. No more Disc read error. May also indicate battery needs replacing, in 5th year of 6-yr battery.
Last edited by f1bxl46; Apr 24, 2014 at 08:56 AM.
1. Tilt steering motor needs replaced ( 300-400 bucks to do it myself.)
2. Paint on B pillars started flaking (ordered New covers 280.00)
3. Rear drivers window trim dry rotted and needs replaced. (50.00)
My factory amp went out about 3 weeks ago. Need to replace it.
arm rest doesn't close all the way
Other than that it's okay
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
1. Trunk Struts
2. Idler Pulley
3. Drivers side hub assembly
4. Radiator blown up and replaced
5.Tilt Wheel
6. Passenger window sticking
7.CEL on because of fuel screen
8.CD player not working
9.Rotten egg smell under hard acceleration (we know what that is).
My 99LS 400(bought with 70K miles) that I drive very hard and has just below 150,000 miles on the other hand,
1. Replaced alternator hastily then found out my alternator was fine, the power supply on my sub amp caused the problem.
2. Small leak from power steering pump that I repaired with a sta-bil additive 2 years ago and is still fine.
3. Issue with starting that made me think my starter was bad and ended up being just a broken key.
Mind you, I take great care of my cars. I still have my 93 Del Sol, and 93 Acura Legend that I bought while in college nearly 20 years ago and they drive fine but have had issues as well.
The LS430 is still awesome in my book, but its no UCF20....sorry.
Last edited by Doc Yota; Apr 23, 2014 at 11:14 PM.
1 - Gawdamm sun visors have squeeked something awful for years now when you flip them up or down. This is something I have not been able to fix myself or find a fix for. Anyone know how to fix this?
2 - Levinson subwoofer is blown. Went bad about a year ago, still haven't fixed it yet - need to get on this one.
3 - Telescoping wheel was making lots of groaning noises when going up/down. Pulled off the cover and regreased. Done.
That's it besides tires, brakes, battery, fluids. Still on original spark plugs. I've never had the car aligned and it still tracks like a champ. My air sus is still good (though I have a set of sport steel suspension in my garage waiting for the day I need to replace it). Bout ready to do the timing belt.
1. Telescoping wheel broken when I bough it, fortunately in a good place so I will forget about it. Definitely got the auto feature disconnected. My last car was an Acura RL which also had an auto telescope that broke, so it seems nobody sources a motor powerful enough for this. Tilt works fine, just like in my Acura.
A service advisor at Lexus of Riverside, CA was very helpful and advised me it could be the worm drive, which would be around $400 total or the motor, around $800 total. Good to know.
2. Blown speakers. A known problem. The problem is simply the outside foam ring. If you are handy, you can buy re-foaming kits and do it yourself. I am not really, so I found a reputable car stereo guy, and he did all speakers and sub for about $500. Sounds new now; not bad $$ if it lasts the life of the car again.
3. The stupid folding mirrors. Currently reeling over this, but not a necessary function....I guess.
4. A couple of the parking sensors in the back are questionable.
Other than those semi-minor, non critical items, the car is beautiful and flawless in its reliability and operation. I definitely did my research online on the reputation and knew I wanted one.
Cosmetic trouble as such, aren't a big deal, like say some transmission defects.
Over the next two years I had to replace all four air struts and the adaptive cruise laser module. Thankfully, these were all covered under warranty, or the cost would have been about $7000. Then the annoying stuff began.
First the driver's door lock actuator failed, and it wouldn't lock. I fixed it myself, but the part cost over $500. Shortly after the tilt/extend feature of the steering wheel stopped working. Lexus wanted $500 to fix it, but I removed the covers and re-greased it. That solved it.
The next summer, I returned home from vacation to find that the whole instrument cluster was dead. I reset it and it worked for awhile, but then stopped again. The dealer charged my $900 for a new module in the panel.
Around the end of 2014 I began hearing a sound like an airplane was flying overhead. My mechanic asked me if it changed sound when I turned the wheel, and it did. Sure enough my right front wheel bearing was shot. Again, thanks to the forum, I was able to do it myself in about an hour. Cost: $400.
Then, about six months ago the rear passenger door actuator did the same thing that happened to the driver's door. Now the part price for a new actuator had gone up to $600. But I found out that you could open the motor housing of the EZ Close and inside was a small motor that could be bought on eBay for $6.00. I bought two just in case another door failed... it didn't take long.
Yesterday, when we were leaving Costco, my wife said she couldn't close the passenger door. It was as if there were no latch at all. She held the door closed while I slowly drove the 25 miles home.
This being the third door problem, I was now a Certified Lexus Lock Expert. So this morning I removed the door panel and actuator assembly to find that the latch was indeed broken. There is a small plastic ear that extends from the metal housing for the latch. On it there is a micro switch that is opened when the door is closed. The lever that actuates it is spring loaded, as the latch closes the spring compresses, pushing the lever that opens the switch. Heat, time, and the constant pressure of the spring had caused the plastic to fatigue and fail. Very poor design, in my opinion.
A repair is possible, but given the constant pressure of the spring and the small surface to apply adhesive (JB Weld), I am not confident it will last.
I have friends who have driven their LS's for 250-300K miles. I expect my car to last that long, but I am beginning to wonder if maybe I have gotten a lemon. Don't get me wrong, I love my car. It is a dream to drive and the ride is the best I've experienced. I want to keep it, but it seems to be disintegrating around me.
So that's my tale, like a woman who drives you crazy, but you can't stand the thought of being without!










