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LS 430 Door Lock Actuator Tutorial

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Old 04-25-18, 06:53 AM
  #331  
stevenf
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Originally Posted by 911LE View Post
You need new motors. I'll be posting a new tutorial in the next few weeks.
Thanks! That saves me a lot, hope I could get it fixed in just one go.
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Old 05-31-18, 10:42 PM
  #332  
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So I made this tutorial for anyone who just wants to replace the whole actuator assembly and not replace just the motor.

Start by removing the door panel and then pull back the plastic weatherproofing:





Now remove the 2 torque screws and bolt that are circled in red (the bolt [top right corner] is for the window rail which needs to be moved to remove the door actuator)





On the door jamb remove the 3 torque screws circled in red:






On the lower door jamb remove the bolt circled in red (this is for the window rail which needs to be moved to remove the door actuator)






Here is a pic inside the door: the bolt circled in red is the of the bolt for the window rail from picture #2 (top right corner).

The white plastic tab for the rod needs to be moved upward in the direction of the yellow arrow. The rod will then need to be moved back towards you (yellow arrow) to pop out of place:





This plug needs to removed, push down on tab circled in red:






This is another pic from inside the door of the window rail and the bolt in picture #4. Gently pull up on window rail once bolt is removed and then slide the actuator down to the bottom and remove from the door:







Here are just 2 pictures for reference of how the door actuator is oriented inside the door. Also circled in Red are the two cables that connect to the door panel latch.





Installation is the reverse of the removal. Plug in your door lock switch and test before reinstalling your door panel to make sure itís working. Now reinstall your door panel and your all done ✅

Last edited by LSR83; 06-01-18 at 11:46 AM.
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Old 07-04-18, 10:21 AM
  #333  
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Thank you. I may prefer to try this. I have the 2004 LS430 with regular close (not the soft close) Am i correct that the entire part is 69040-50181? There seems to be a lock assembly and an actuator lock assembly.
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Old 07-04-18, 01:57 PM
  #334  
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Yeah it is both built in one. Iím not sure about the part number though. My item from eBay listing didnít show the part #
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Old 07-04-18, 02:29 PM
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If ebay, i am assuming non-OEM? I am ok with that since the OEM part is like $600. Perhaps prices have gone up but it seems like people were saying the part was about $200..hence my hesitation. If you still have it, Would you mind posting the ebay link? Just confirming this is the electronic thing that locks/unlocks passenger door..not the actual physical lock mechanism. Anyway, if its going to be $600, I’d take a run at changing the motor thing for $10. Thank you in advance!
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Old 07-04-18, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Essiedub View Post
If ebay, i am assuming non-OEM? I am ok with that since the OEM part is like $600. Perhaps prices have gone up but it seems like people were saying the part was about $200..hence my hesitation. If you still have it, Would you mind posting the ebay link? Just confirming this is the electronic thing that locks/unlocks passenger door..not the actual physical lock mechanism. Anyway, if its going to be $600, Iíd take a run at changing the motor thing for $10. Thank you in advance!
No mine was OEM in BNIB package and all. Just didnít have the info to pull up from original, but here is a link to another seller Iíve bought from:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F252136710677
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Old 07-05-18, 11:40 AM
  #337  
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Thanks for sharing. I'll need to do this ASAP!
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Old 07-05-18, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 4litre View Post
Thanks for sharing. I'll need to do this ASAP!
Youre welcome
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Old 07-05-18, 04:43 PM
  #339  
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Originally Posted by LSR83 View Post


No mine was OEM in BNIB package and all. Just didn’t have the info to pull up from original, but here is a link to another seller I’ve bought from:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F252136710677





LSR83 thank you very much! ...For the link and the tutorial. I am going to do this first one as an entire unit replacement. Really hoping this will be pretty straightforward. I will tinker around with the old unit and next time around (as I fully expect the others to eventually fail) I will do the $10 fix and replace the little motors.


For the record:
2004 LS430
- doors with regular close..full .actuator part number is 69030-50251 for passenger front unit - this is $350 list and typical price around $250
- doors with easy close - full actuator part number is 69110-50030 - this is the $800 one ..good news is that the component that contains the little defective $10 motor can be ordered separately (sorry, I forgot to ask for that part #)






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Old 07-06-18, 02:14 AM
  #340  
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Is this for repairing the soft-close actuator or the actual door lock actuator? I've found I've had a problem with my left rear door not locking. Physically moving the tab does nothing, it feels like something is bound up in the mechanism. I haven't pulled the door card off as of yet (that's tomorrow's job) so maybe I've just pinched the cable, but if anyone else has had a similar problem I'd love to hear how they've fixed that
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Old 07-06-18, 08:07 AM
  #341  
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Originally Posted by Scootymad View Post
Is this for repairing the soft-close actuator or the actual door lock actuator? I've found I've had a problem with my left rear door not locking. Physically moving the tab does nothing, it feels like something is bound up in the mechanism. I haven't pulled the door card off as of yet (that's tomorrow's job) so maybe I've just pinched the cable, but if anyone else has had a similar problem I'd love to hear how they've fixed that

the part I posted above is the component that enables electronic locking/unlocking (I.e. with the key fob) . I am still able to manually lock and unlock.so I suspect this is not the part you need. I think itís best to call the Lexus parts department..the components are frequently named similarly and gets confusing. Good luck.
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Old 07-29-18, 03:25 AM
  #342  
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Ok so my problem was completely unrelated to this thread. The little white and green plastic gadgets were cocked over about 20 or 30 degrees so it wasn't allowing the cable to move freely (more to the point, at all). A simple tweak straight and a more careful reassembly of the door card and problem solved
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