Hey all...

I will be replacing rear rotors and brake pads on my '01 LS

Parts I have:
2 rotors, brake pads, 4 caliper flange bolts

Tools I have:
Torque wrench, extension, sockets, extension, hammer

Few questions:
1. Should the rotors pop straight out once the caliper has been removed? Or is there anything that will be holding the rotors?
2. Is there specific lbs of torque I need to tighten the rear caliper flange bolts?
3. What other tools do I need?


I replaced the brake pads myself bunch of times but never the rotors.

Thanks a lot!!!

 

I've removed rotors on several different vehicles (not Lexus); but, I'm sure they're all about the same. The brake pads/calipers keep the rotors in place; however, if the rotors are "seized" (rust, etc.) around the hub, they can be difficult to loosen/remove.

 

Thanks! I hope few bangs with a hammer around the rotor should loosen it up.

 

2) The two rear caliper flange bolts are 58 ft.lbs. "At the time of installation, tighten the bolts starting from the one at the lower position."

 

Thanks Stan!!!

 

Completed the work on the rear brakes last night. Very easy to do.

Here's how, if anyone cares...

1. Jack up the car.
2. Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir under the hood
3. Remove the wheel
4. Remove the rear brake pads accessing them from the back of the caliper by taking out a steel clip that holds the steel pin, then remove the steel pin and spring plate assembly.
5. Compress the caliper pistons
6. Remove the 2 caliper bolts. Have something under the caliper to support it. You don't want it to hang on its rubber brake line.
7. get 2 M8 screws. spray some WD40 into the holes in the rotor where these screws will go.
8. Start screwing the M8s in. Once you feel a little bit of a stop/resistance, start working the screws one at a time. These screws will push the rotor off the hub. When it happens, you will hear a pretty loud bang and the rotor will be off the hub. Pull the rotor off with your hands.
9. Install the new rotor.
10. Install the caliper starting with securing the lower caliper bolt. Torque to 58 ft.lbs
11. Insert new brake pads.
12. Install the steel spring and pin and secure the pin with the clip.
13. Inspect everything to make sure it looks and feels good.
14. Put the wheel back on and tighten the logs.

Repeat the same procedure for the second wheel. Once done, screw the brake fluid reservoir cap back on. Pump the brakes few times. Take it for a test drive.

I used Raybestos Advanced Technologies brake rotors with Original Lexus brake pads. So far the shake that was due to warped rotors is gone and feel of the brakes and stopping power is on par with original rotors.

Next up this weekend is front brakes.

 

Nice job! Thanks for the write up. All this brake diy stuff encourages me - I may do my first ever front brake pad replacement at 30k or so. It sure looks easy on the LS 430.

 

I think 30k is a bit early to replace the brakes. Unless you drive real hard.
I usually do front brakes at 40k and there is still plenty of the brake pad left for another 10k or so. Use only original pads. They're the best.

The pads are very easy to replace. You don't need to remove the caliper. they come out of the back of the caliper. I will do front brakes this weekend.

 

Sounds good - I'll check the fronts at 30 k or so and see how they are doing. I usually get almost 50% more mile son brakes that what other folks get as I try to drive very smooth and use my brakes very little.

 

One question... i'm going to attempt this myself in a few days once the parts arrive. Did you mean M8 BOLTS or screws? My initial reaction is that screws would be much harder to tighten down than a hex head bolt.

 

He means bolts. I'm not a fan of that method for removing rear rotors. It won't be a problem 90% of the time, but if there is a substantial amount of rust on the inside of the rotor near the hub, which there usually is, the internal e-brake drum assembly can catch the lip of the inner drum. Putting any further strain can either pop all the the springs off or pull them until they completely deform.

 

I am in the process of changing my rear rotors and pads. I have the old pads and calliper off and just wanted to make sure before I start hammering out the old rotor. I read somewhere that the hand brake should not be on, otherwise it would cause some damage while removing the rotor. My hand (or more appropriate emergency) brake is certainly off, but I got to thinking that the Park position for the drive selector also locks the rear wheels. Just wanted to make sure this is still the proper position to be in when I start hammering the rotors off.

Thanks
Rakesh

 

Just remove the handbrake when you're removing the rotor. You'll see when you get the rotor off that the parking brake uses a separate system that clamps from the inside of the rotor. The e-brake is basically a drum brake.

If this parking brake is engaged and you start whacking on the rotor to get it off you'll rip off the retainers, springs and pins that hold the parking brake assembly to the hub. This exact thing happened to me and, although it's not the end of the world, it's kind of a pain in the a** to put it back.

If the transmission is in park, there is no danger of the above happening. It will just mechanically lock the transmission and driveshaft.

 

Are you sure it's M8s? I thought it was M10s. If I'm wrong then forget this email

 

I'm changing the rear rotors/pads today. Wasn't sure if everyone also changes the drum shoes as well?

I'm familiar on how to change them, however, I can't seem to remove the spring on top that holds the shoes in place. Anyone have any input?

Thank you.