swilli89

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Exactly what I needed, thank you.

Slvr surfr

iTrader: (1)

While doing my rear pads and rotors, i ran into a problem. The top bolts came out with ease. Both bottom bolts would not come out at all. Even after being soaked in WD40, PB blaster and with the aid of shop tools they didnt wanna come out. Finally got a few turns in and.... snap!!!! Bolt broke of inside the hub. Didnt continue with the other side and only replaced the pads. Broke side i went ahead and replace everything but now i need a new spindle/knuckle. Not gonna bother with trying to drill the broke bolt out. Too many complications afterwards. Problem is i only found one on ebay for $150. Not many options when shopping for spindles. Any ideas??

deagle

I need to do pads and rotors all around. Do I need to purchase new shims? How do you guys feel about the grease?

BTC89LS400

And for those who need to visually see how to replace your pads and rotors, here is a video...

rkw77080

The caliper mounting bolts are non-reusable and should be installed "dry" with a torque wrench to 81 ft-lbf for the front, and 58 ft-lbf for the rear. Lubricating the threads will cause over-tightening and stretches the bolt.

2KHarrier

I did the brakes a few years ago and failed to use grease and they squealed like a slow moving box car....

Then I redid them and they've been quiet for the last 2 years.

Johnhav430

....my experience is on Nissan and BMW, and imho over more than 10 pad jobs, and only 2 four rotor jobs (I guess I never bought into the BMW way of always doing rotors and pads, EVERY time, which I did last time), my observation is that noise is usually pad to rotor. In my limited experience, I proved this out with the BMW rears. They will squeal (as will many German cars who have semi metallic pads) as soon as 15k after being installed. What I did was to replace my rear pads ONLY, without replacing the rotors. A squeal that I lived with from 15k to 50k, GONE. Only after confirming this did I go and replace the rotors. Just had to know for my own edumakation. BMW states do not ever, ever, lubricate the sliding pins on the floating calipers. This is not to be confused with the backs of the pads which take a paste. So these are some principles that I would apply from my experience. Also noteworthy, BMW rotors, 10 y.o., came off the hubs with a slam of my fist, no mallet etc. I don't suppose my LS rears will be that easy....fronts should as the dealer who sold me the car used antiseize which I can see....

edit removing comments about the YouTube until I can watch it again...

Johnhav430

will bump this for anyone looking to clarify in the future, absolutely M8 x 1.25's fit the holes on the rear rotors, 3rd gen LS430, for extracting....FYI...

p.s. I have seen "definitive" Toyota threads stating all Toyotas are M10's, so I can see where the confusion comes into play...

p.p.s. I have purchased both front and rear OE shim kits for the next jobs, they are missing from my car and prolly the cause of a pad shifting noise on the fronts, duplicated by tapping on the pads where the pins go through them...

Romanova

Perfect info! I thought my rotors were an anomaly as it looks like the face of the rotor and the hub were one piece with the axle nut securing it all in place. A quick search of the forum, one trip to Lowes for $1.25 in hardware and they popped right off. Good stuff!

rkw77080

A word of caution... The caliper mounting bolts are non-reusable and should be installed "dry" with a torque wrench to 81 ft-lbf for the front, and 58 ft-lbf for the rear. The factory took into account the effect of thermal expansion and selected metallurgy to minimize "loosening" of the bolts when the calipers experience extreme high temperature. Hardware store bolts may expand/elongate differently as compared to the caliper during extreme high temperature, and on rare occasions, could possibly back out of the bolt hole.

fmalgapo

This is going to sound silly...but I love you guys!
I was just doing my rear rotors today and came upon the same issue. I hit the hell out of that rotor with a sledgehammer and no movement. Parking brake down.
I tried this - had a bunch of assorted bolts so I had this size and to my amazement this LITERALLY popped off the rotor.

Awesome advice and THANK YOU!

PS - i've done full sets of brakes on BMWs, Hondas, Subarus and never knew about this trick!