We swung out to get some gas & carry-out BBQ. I backed into the garage, got out, and heard the telltale "Psssst". Sure enough, the left rear tire was losing air. I put the car back in the driveway so I'd have room to work, choked down dinner, and went out to change the tire.

I couldn't find a good lift point to place my floor jack (nor could I find a good answer here), so I used the scissors jack in the trunk. The jack handle is rather poorly designed, so it's best to use gloves. The flat came off and the spare went on with no problems. Luckily, the flat is on the scraped wheel, so I'll have the tire store swap the tires with the clean spare wheel. (The tire damage looks to be a clean puncture in the center of the tread that can be repaired.)

Is there a source for good locations to place a floor jack that aren't under the pumpkin?

 

Sitting in Belle Tire, sipping coffee, done with work email, and checking CL on the iPad. I could get used to this.

 

Not sure what you're referring to as "pumkin" but I've always used the metal slots where the scissor jacks would go on and I've never had problems. I rotate my tires using those points.

 

Pumpkin = differential

The concern I have with using the jacking points on the side is placing the flat metal jack against that ridge of metal. Maybe I need to get a puck.

 

Ahhhh... so. I never liked jacking up from the diff. I've always had the heebees of the diff. cracking, although I know that it probably never will crack.

Like I said, I've always jacked from the scissor points and never had any slippage or issues. Just remember to chock the wheels.

 

These things always seem to happen when a person is about to enjoy something they'd prefer to be doing instead. At least you got a trial run in the comfort of the home garage in case you ever have to do it on the side of the road (I'm knocking on wood)

I see the concern with using the floor jack on the spots designed for the scissor jack.

For the front end I think the lower fascia might be high enough to get a floor jack straight under to the suspension cross member. It's a pretty solid spot I've used on all my cars (except the Prelude it was too low).

Rear is the issue with the diff or the scissor spots being the main spots I can think of. I have only tried using the diff spot on my truck. It's supposed to be a solid spot and it worked well but I had access to cheap salvage parts for my Sierra and the LS is a different story.

Depending on the shape and size of the contact point on your floor jack a small square of plywood can sometimes help as a sort of spongy interface when contact points seem incompatible. Similarly, I like to use plywood sheets under my jack stands so they sink in a bit and sit firmly as opposed to not sitting completely flat on my driveway.

 

Caddy, there is a frame beam just behind the "pumpkin" where the rear swing arms connect. I use my hydraulic jack with a short piece of 2x4 soft pine between the frame and jack(for cushioning and clearance from the pumpkin) and lift the frame member rather than the pumpkin.

 

On jacking subject, I also have had a problem on exactly how to jack the vehicle using my floor jack, and then lower it onto a jackstand!

Ideally, I'd like to jack the car with my floor jack at the "approved" (scissor) jacking point, and then lower her onto jack stands at those "approved" points...but there's just not enough of a jacking "spot" to do this. (having 2 different supports at these spots simulateously)

I am hesitant to place jack stands at the outter most/straight areas of the rear axle.

It seems like it would be easy to jack her from the rear differential, and then place jackstands at the "approved" jacking points. Has anyone done it that way? Also, what's the best spot for the same process in the front? PICS sure would be sweet in this situation......


PS...Greg-what caused your flat?

EDIT---Randal..just read your post.

 

The flat was cause by a broken tip from what appeared to be a steak knife in the center of the tread. I was parked at a restaurant, waiting inside about 10 minutes to pick up carryout. Accident or vandalism? Either is possible.

 

According to the big factory manual vol 1, the pumpkin IS the official rear jack point. The front is even worse...under the front center IFS crossmember, which requires you remove the skid plate or the jack won't clear, even in high mode. I ended up using the spare jack out of laziness, but it makes it a pain to do a tire rotation, as it requires you use the spare as a place-holder. I thought the spare jack was very easy to use....very fast. The key is to grab both handles tight and spin them like an old-fashioned auger drill. I could raise one wheel in about 30 seconds, them hit the lugs w/ the 600 ft-lb impact wrench, and have the entire wheel off in 1 min. No gloves needed. The hardest part is getting the spare back in the trunk under the platform.