TSB TC006-04 Transmission Shift Pattern upgrade
12-04-13, 07:55 PM
#91
Your probably right. Hard to know until you know. Honestly, the issue I have is not really an issue. What I describe is really not abrupt. It's more like how our transmissions are so silky smooth but every once in a while I will feel that one downshift and wonder why that was not so silky. Only from 2nd to 1st at about 10 mph when decelerating fairly quickly. I think I am getting spoiled with this car...
08-22-14, 12:16 PM
#92
Your probably right. Hard to know until you know. Honestly, the issue I have is not really an issue. What I describe is really not abrupt. It's more like how our transmissions are so silky smooth but every once in a while I will feel that one downshift and wonder why that was not so silky. Only from 2nd to 1st at about 10 mph when decelerating fairly quickly. I think I am getting spoiled with this car...
11-11-16, 09:57 PM
#94
Driver School Candidate
Solved!!! Please read
Long time listener(lurker), first time caller. I have a somewhat new(to me) 2005 LS430. Purchased the car with 107k miles. I chose this particular car because I was impressed by it's dealer service history. After owning the car for a few days, I began questioning some of the "quirks" that have already been discussed and addressed on this forum. Cleaning the throttle body and replacing the coolant temp sensor helped the ECU make good decisions with regard to cold idle behavior. New O2 sensors. I cleaned the MAF sensor. I changed the PCV valve and in-tank fuel pump, filter, and pressure regulator because, well, I'm that guy. I was, however, becoming increasingly stumped by the transmission behavior, and have been focusing on getting that straight. I feel inclined to post my experience because I feel that I have something new to add to the discussion regarding TSB TC006-04. SPOILER ALERT: In my case it was the MAF sensor.
Here's the background:
I had a full transmission fluid flush done at the Lexus dealership. They expressed no concern with the condition of the old fluid, or the fact that I was having this service performed for the first time at 107k miles. I noticed absolutely no difference in the behavior of the transmission after this service. I interpreted this as being "good news", as it helped to confirm my suspicion that I was NOT dealing with a mechanical transmission related issue.
I had the TSB performed by the dealer. The car shifted MUCH better for about 2 days. Then it didn't. Hmm...? Seems to be software, not mechanical. Good.
I confirmed that the fluid level was correct, at home, in my driveway using OBD2 to monitor transmission temp. It was a tad low. No change.
I drove for several months resetting the ECU every couple of weeks or so, enjoying better shift quality for a few days at a time. Transmission temps never exceeded engine coolant temps by more than 1-2 degrees C in HOT summer traffic jams. This continued to validate my theory that I did not have a mechanical issue, but rather some sort of "correctable" sensor/programming/ECU problem.
Took the car back into the dealer and had them do a "print screen" of the Techstream ECU calibration versions. This confirmed that they had indeed installed the correct cal's for the model.
This is the point where most of the folks posting in this forum either gave up, or haven't yet taken the time to share their solution to this annoying problem.
I started thinking about all sorts of powertrain related sensors. TPS, accelerator pedal sensor, throttle body motor, output shaft sensors... None of these made enough sense to pursue, as I was never experiencing "erratic" throttle or speedometer behavior. The opposite really. I was experiencing very consistent early up-shifts, and no torque converter unlock under increased throttle angle. Just eventual downshifts once I got into the pedal far enough. ( As well as the 2k RPM parking lot spike.) It was always better after resetting the computer. It TRIED to behave, but would always "re-learn" it's old habits. Crap. Do I need a new ECU? Is THIS why people bring themselves to move-on from these cars?
I had a few minutes to tinker around in the engine compartment and found myself cleaning the MAF sensor again. It didn't even look dirty. I got carried away and drowned the little guy in CRC MAF cleaner. I rapped it in a cloth and filled it up with the volatile juice. The sensor apparently experienced a new level of "clean", because the car didn't know what hit it on that first test drive. Throttle "sounded" better. Torque converter unlocked under varying light throttle adjustments. Car literally felt 800lbs lighter. I believed that I was experiencing (for the first time) what so many LS owners likely take for granted every day. I promptly sourced an OE Denso MAF sensor for a whopping $70, and pondered how I could have overlooked REPLACING this 12 year-old scuzz magnet when I did the O2 sensors. I know why I didn't though. The long-term fuel trim numbers always appeared to be fine. I didn't have enough experience with the car to know what the live data should look like with regard to real-time monitoring of intake volume, SFT and timing while driving, but I can assure you that there was nothing obvious to gleam from the data.
My purpose in providing ALL these thoughts and background info is to encourage readers to consider the possibility that the solution to these symptoms may be a 5 minute job involving a $70 part. The cleaned-up 12 year-old sensor gave me hope, and the brand new OE replacement has the car behaving fantastically. I am suggesting replacement of the MAF sensor as a PM item. There just isn't a reliable way to verify it's accuracy based on my experience.
I know that this is an old thread, but I found it and came back to it several times. Hopefully this helps someone, or even "multiple someone's" out there asking the same questions that I did!
Here's the background:
I had a full transmission fluid flush done at the Lexus dealership. They expressed no concern with the condition of the old fluid, or the fact that I was having this service performed for the first time at 107k miles. I noticed absolutely no difference in the behavior of the transmission after this service. I interpreted this as being "good news", as it helped to confirm my suspicion that I was NOT dealing with a mechanical transmission related issue.
I had the TSB performed by the dealer. The car shifted MUCH better for about 2 days. Then it didn't. Hmm...? Seems to be software, not mechanical. Good.
I confirmed that the fluid level was correct, at home, in my driveway using OBD2 to monitor transmission temp. It was a tad low. No change.
I drove for several months resetting the ECU every couple of weeks or so, enjoying better shift quality for a few days at a time. Transmission temps never exceeded engine coolant temps by more than 1-2 degrees C in HOT summer traffic jams. This continued to validate my theory that I did not have a mechanical issue, but rather some sort of "correctable" sensor/programming/ECU problem.
Took the car back into the dealer and had them do a "print screen" of the Techstream ECU calibration versions. This confirmed that they had indeed installed the correct cal's for the model.
This is the point where most of the folks posting in this forum either gave up, or haven't yet taken the time to share their solution to this annoying problem.
I started thinking about all sorts of powertrain related sensors. TPS, accelerator pedal sensor, throttle body motor, output shaft sensors... None of these made enough sense to pursue, as I was never experiencing "erratic" throttle or speedometer behavior. The opposite really. I was experiencing very consistent early up-shifts, and no torque converter unlock under increased throttle angle. Just eventual downshifts once I got into the pedal far enough. ( As well as the 2k RPM parking lot spike.) It was always better after resetting the computer. It TRIED to behave, but would always "re-learn" it's old habits. Crap. Do I need a new ECU? Is THIS why people bring themselves to move-on from these cars?
I had a few minutes to tinker around in the engine compartment and found myself cleaning the MAF sensor again. It didn't even look dirty. I got carried away and drowned the little guy in CRC MAF cleaner. I rapped it in a cloth and filled it up with the volatile juice. The sensor apparently experienced a new level of "clean", because the car didn't know what hit it on that first test drive. Throttle "sounded" better. Torque converter unlocked under varying light throttle adjustments. Car literally felt 800lbs lighter. I believed that I was experiencing (for the first time) what so many LS owners likely take for granted every day. I promptly sourced an OE Denso MAF sensor for a whopping $70, and pondered how I could have overlooked REPLACING this 12 year-old scuzz magnet when I did the O2 sensors. I know why I didn't though. The long-term fuel trim numbers always appeared to be fine. I didn't have enough experience with the car to know what the live data should look like with regard to real-time monitoring of intake volume, SFT and timing while driving, but I can assure you that there was nothing obvious to gleam from the data.
My purpose in providing ALL these thoughts and background info is to encourage readers to consider the possibility that the solution to these symptoms may be a 5 minute job involving a $70 part. The cleaned-up 12 year-old sensor gave me hope, and the brand new OE replacement has the car behaving fantastically. I am suggesting replacement of the MAF sensor as a PM item. There just isn't a reliable way to verify it's accuracy based on my experience.
I know that this is an old thread, but I found it and came back to it several times. Hopefully this helps someone, or even "multiple someone's" out there asking the same questions that I did!
11-12-16, 12:23 AM
#95
Racer
Long time listener(lurker), first time caller. I have a somewhat new(to me) 2005 LS430. Purchased the car with 107k miles. I chose this particular car because I was impressed by it's dealer service history. After owning the car for a few days, I began questioning some of the "quirks" that have already been discussed and addressed on this forum. Cleaning the throttle body and replacing the coolant temp sensor helped the ECU make good decisions with regard to cold idle behavior. New O2 sensors. I cleaned the MAF sensor. I changed the PCV valve and in-tank fuel pump, filter, and pressure regulator because, well, I'm that guy. I was, however, becoming increasingly stumped by the transmission behavior, and have been focusing on getting that straight. I feel inclined to post my experience because I feel that I have something new to add to the discussion regarding TSB TC006-04. SPOILER ALERT: In my case it was the MAF sensor.
Here's the background:
I had a full transmission fluid flush done at the Lexus dealership. They expressed no concern with the condition of the old fluid, or the fact that I was having this service performed for the first time at 107k miles. I noticed absolutely no difference in the behavior of the transmission after this service. I interpreted this as being "good news", as it helped to confirm my suspicion that I was NOT dealing with a mechanical transmission related issue.
I had the TSB performed by the dealer. The car shifted MUCH better for about 2 days. Then it didn't. Hmm...? Seems to be software, not mechanical. Good.
I confirmed that the fluid level was correct, at home, in my driveway using OBD2 to monitor transmission temp. It was a tad low. No change.
I drove for several months resetting the ECU every couple of weeks or so, enjoying better shift quality for a few days at a time. Transmission temps never exceeded engine coolant temps by more than 1-2 degrees C in HOT summer traffic jams. This continued to validate my theory that I did not have a mechanical issue, but rather some sort of "correctable" sensor/programming/ECU problem.
Took the car back into the dealer and had them do a "print screen" of the Techstream ECU calibration versions. This confirmed that they had indeed installed the correct cal's for the model.
This is the point where most of the folks posting in this forum either gave up, or haven't yet taken the time to share their solution to this annoying problem.
I started thinking about all sorts of powertrain related sensors. TPS, accelerator pedal sensor, throttle body motor, output shaft sensors... None of these made enough sense to pursue, as I was never experiencing "erratic" throttle or speedometer behavior. The opposite really. I was experiencing very consistent early up-shifts, and no torque converter unlock under increased throttle angle. Just eventual downshifts once I got into the pedal far enough. ( As well as the 2k RPM parking lot spike.) It was always better after resetting the computer. It TRIED to behave, but would always "re-learn" it's old habits. Crap. Do I need a new ECU? Is THIS why people bring themselves to move-on from these cars?
I had a few minutes to tinker around in the engine compartment and found myself cleaning the MAF sensor again. It didn't even look dirty. I got carried away and drowned the little guy in CRC MAF cleaner. I rapped it in a cloth and filled it up with the volatile juice. The sensor apparently experienced a new level of "clean", because the car didn't know what hit it on that first test drive. Throttle "sounded" better. Torque converter unlocked under varying light throttle adjustments. Car literally felt 800lbs lighter. I believed that I was experiencing (for the first time) what so many LS owners likely take for granted every day. I promptly sourced an OE Denso MAF sensor for a whopping $70, and pondered how I could have overlooked REPLACING this 12 year-old scuzz magnet when I did the O2 sensors. I know why I didn't though. The long-term fuel trim numbers always appeared to be fine. I didn't have enough experience with the car to know what the live data should look like with regard to real-time monitoring of intake volume, SFT and timing while driving, but I can assure you that there was nothing obvious to gleam from the data.
My purpose in providing ALL these thoughts and background info is to encourage readers to consider the possibility that the solution to these symptoms may be a 5 minute job involving a $70 part. The cleaned-up 12 year-old sensor gave me hope, and the brand new OE replacement has the car behaving fantastically. I am suggesting replacement of the MAF sensor as a PM item. There just isn't a reliable way to verify it's accuracy based on my experience.
I know that this is an old thread, but I found it and came back to it several times. Hopefully this helps someone, or even "multiple someone's" out there asking the same questions that I did!
Here's the background:
I had a full transmission fluid flush done at the Lexus dealership. They expressed no concern with the condition of the old fluid, or the fact that I was having this service performed for the first time at 107k miles. I noticed absolutely no difference in the behavior of the transmission after this service. I interpreted this as being "good news", as it helped to confirm my suspicion that I was NOT dealing with a mechanical transmission related issue.
I had the TSB performed by the dealer. The car shifted MUCH better for about 2 days. Then it didn't. Hmm...? Seems to be software, not mechanical. Good.
I confirmed that the fluid level was correct, at home, in my driveway using OBD2 to monitor transmission temp. It was a tad low. No change.
I drove for several months resetting the ECU every couple of weeks or so, enjoying better shift quality for a few days at a time. Transmission temps never exceeded engine coolant temps by more than 1-2 degrees C in HOT summer traffic jams. This continued to validate my theory that I did not have a mechanical issue, but rather some sort of "correctable" sensor/programming/ECU problem.
Took the car back into the dealer and had them do a "print screen" of the Techstream ECU calibration versions. This confirmed that they had indeed installed the correct cal's for the model.
This is the point where most of the folks posting in this forum either gave up, or haven't yet taken the time to share their solution to this annoying problem.
I started thinking about all sorts of powertrain related sensors. TPS, accelerator pedal sensor, throttle body motor, output shaft sensors... None of these made enough sense to pursue, as I was never experiencing "erratic" throttle or speedometer behavior. The opposite really. I was experiencing very consistent early up-shifts, and no torque converter unlock under increased throttle angle. Just eventual downshifts once I got into the pedal far enough. ( As well as the 2k RPM parking lot spike.) It was always better after resetting the computer. It TRIED to behave, but would always "re-learn" it's old habits. Crap. Do I need a new ECU? Is THIS why people bring themselves to move-on from these cars?
I had a few minutes to tinker around in the engine compartment and found myself cleaning the MAF sensor again. It didn't even look dirty. I got carried away and drowned the little guy in CRC MAF cleaner. I rapped it in a cloth and filled it up with the volatile juice. The sensor apparently experienced a new level of "clean", because the car didn't know what hit it on that first test drive. Throttle "sounded" better. Torque converter unlocked under varying light throttle adjustments. Car literally felt 800lbs lighter. I believed that I was experiencing (for the first time) what so many LS owners likely take for granted every day. I promptly sourced an OE Denso MAF sensor for a whopping $70, and pondered how I could have overlooked REPLACING this 12 year-old scuzz magnet when I did the O2 sensors. I know why I didn't though. The long-term fuel trim numbers always appeared to be fine. I didn't have enough experience with the car to know what the live data should look like with regard to real-time monitoring of intake volume, SFT and timing while driving, but I can assure you that there was nothing obvious to gleam from the data.
My purpose in providing ALL these thoughts and background info is to encourage readers to consider the possibility that the solution to these symptoms may be a 5 minute job involving a $70 part. The cleaned-up 12 year-old sensor gave me hope, and the brand new OE replacement has the car behaving fantastically. I am suggesting replacement of the MAF sensor as a PM item. There just isn't a reliable way to verify it's accuracy based on my experience.
I know that this is an old thread, but I found it and came back to it several times. Hopefully this helps someone, or even "multiple someone's" out there asking the same questions that I did!
11-12-16, 04:49 AM
#96
Thanks for reviving this thread. My experience is a little different. I was having the same relearning issue, replaced with a new Denso MAF, and it helped for awhile, but not perfect. Now I drive in Power mode and the shifting is tolerable.
11-12-16, 06:17 AM
#97
Driver School Candidate
Thank you very much for sharing, DSR! I have been dealing with my own transmission shifting gremlins without being able to solve the mystery. I was very interested when you mentioned "early up-shifts" as I've frequently noticed that exact phenomenon! I recently had two transmission services involving fluid flush and I found it odd that the LS would shift so smoothly for a week or so but then the smooth shifting would appear to wear off. Instead of the transmission learning my driving habits, it felt as if the computer, as you put it, "relearned old habits". What you posted is exactly the same thoughts I had! I didn't believe the issue was mechanical either. I suspected possibly a faulty sensor somewhere or maybe a loose connector, but I didn't know where to begin to narrow down the culprit. Thanks to you, I will focus on the MAF with high hopes. Thank you again for sharing your observations and analysis.
11-12-16, 06:22 AM
#98
Driver School Candidate
Hmm..? This still points to a sensor related, fuel MAP issue in my opinion. In your case, it seems like the "power" mode is compensating for bad sensor data in one way or another.
11-13-16, 10:01 AM
#99
Racer
Hi DSR, I just had spark plugs and TB/WP changed yesterday. I forwarded your post to my mechanic and he thoroughly cleaned the MAF. After driving about 40 miles today and yesterday, I can still feel the shifts. PWR mode provides perfect and seamless shifts in 5th and 6th gears while the lower 4 gears are crisp but noticeable shifts. In regular ECT mode the shifts feel like there's drag or resistance with each shift. My independent mechanic did refill the tranny with WS fluid since the local Lexus dealership drained out 1 quart a month ago when I first complained about less-than-stellar shifting. Was really hoping the MAF would alleviate my shifting concerns. The car doesn't shift terribly, it just isn't a perfectly invisible shift that I have come to expect from a Lexus.
11-14-16, 10:28 AM
#100
Driver School Candidate
Hi DSR, I just had spark plugs and TB/WP changed yesterday. I forwarded your post to my mechanic and he thoroughly cleaned the MAF. After driving about 40 miles today and yesterday, I can still feel the shifts. PWR mode provides perfect and seamless shifts in 5th and 6th gears while the lower 4 gears are crisp but noticeable shifts. In regular ECT mode the shifts feel like there's drag or resistance with each shift. My independent mechanic did refill the tranny with WS fluid since the local Lexus dealership drained out 1 quart a month ago when I first complained about less-than-stellar shifting. Was really hoping the MAF would alleviate my shifting concerns. The car doesn't shift terribly, it just isn't a perfectly invisible shift that I have come to expect from a Lexus.
Just to be clear, I was never experiencing "poor quality shifts". At least not by my standards. I was experiencing EARLY up-shifts and poor gear selection choices at times. Poor throttle performance with little or no torque converter unlock.
Also, I am suggesting the replacement, NOT CLEANING of MAF sensors on vehicles with 100k+ miles. This also goes for O2 sensors. These two sensors are the "eyes and ears" of the fuel-air mixture calculation, and can learn to believe lies from each other as they age. I am not aware of any O2 sensor manufacturers claiming 100k+ service life on their products.
11-14-16, 10:40 AM
#101
Racer
Did it shift differently than before the plugs and MAF cleaning? Nice to have that 90k service done!
Just to be clear, I was never experiencing "poor quality shifts". At least not by my standards. I was experiencing EARLY up-shifts and poor gear selection choices at times. Poor throttle performance with little or no torque converter unlock.
Also, I am suggesting the replacement, NOT CLEANING of MAF sensors on vehicles with 100k+ miles. This also goes for O2 sensors. These two sensors are the "eyes and ears" of the fuel-air mixture calculation, and can learn to believe lies from each other as they age. I am not aware of any O2 sensor manufacturers claiming 100k+ service life on their products.
Just to be clear, I was never experiencing "poor quality shifts". At least not by my standards. I was experiencing EARLY up-shifts and poor gear selection choices at times. Poor throttle performance with little or no torque converter unlock.
Also, I am suggesting the replacement, NOT CLEANING of MAF sensors on vehicles with 100k+ miles. This also goes for O2 sensors. These two sensors are the "eyes and ears" of the fuel-air mixture calculation, and can learn to believe lies from each other as they age. I am not aware of any O2 sensor manufacturers claiming 100k+ service life on their products.
I find the shift quality is okay. I am sensitive to shifts and I'm sure someone else may find it perfectly acceptable how our LS shifts. I just expect seamless shifting to a point where the driver can't feel the shift ooccuring. I have been trained to expect perfect shift quality after driving a '94 LS400.
I do notice early up-shifts too, both in ECT and PWR modes. The tranny seems to want to get into 3rd gear earlier than other gears and once it does it seems to flare a little bit and the RPMs want to speed up a little despite me hiding a constant throttle.
How do you tell when the torque converter unlocks or when it should?
11-14-16, 12:17 PM
#102
Driver School Candidate
Thanks for the clarification, DSR. Our LS is at 59k miles. I did the TB out of paranoia about the age recommendation and not due to mileage.
I find the shift quality is okay. I am sensitive to shifts and I'm sure someone else may find it perfectly acceptable how our LS shifts. I just expect seamless shifting to a point where the driver can't feel the shift ooccuring. I have been trained to expect perfect shift quality after driving a '94 LS400.
I do notice early up-shifts too, both in ECT and PWR modes. The tranny seems to want to get into 3rd gear earlier than other gears and once it does it seems to flare a little bit and the RPMs want to speed up a little despite me hiding a constant throttle.
How do you tell when the torque converter unlocks or when it should?
I find the shift quality is okay. I am sensitive to shifts and I'm sure someone else may find it perfectly acceptable how our LS shifts. I just expect seamless shifting to a point where the driver can't feel the shift ooccuring. I have been trained to expect perfect shift quality after driving a '94 LS400.
I do notice early up-shifts too, both in ECT and PWR modes. The tranny seems to want to get into 3rd gear earlier than other gears and once it does it seems to flare a little bit and the RPMs want to speed up a little despite me hiding a constant throttle.
How do you tell when the torque converter unlocks or when it should?
59k ...wow. I would be much more interested in the condition of the fuel filter/tank/regulator/pump in a 10 year old car with that little mileage. Of course, I have no idea what "type" of mileage that is. And at this point, I'm just leading you in circles...
Torque converter unlocking. You are driving along on a flat road under steady throttle position approaching an uphill grade at, let's say 40mph. You gently increase throttle to compensate for the grade in an effort to maintain 40mph. Your transmission responds in 1 of 3 ways:
1. Stays in the gear it is in with no change of engine rpm. You steadily increase throttle pressure to hold 40mph.
2. Stays in the gear it is in, but with a noticeable bump in engine rpm. This is what I'm referring to as torque converter "unlocking". Steady foot up the incline.
3. Downshifts, with an obvious corresponding change in engine rpm.
My symptoms were primarily #1 related. My concern was that I was never experiencing #2. and... cue bodily function jokes now. Our 2015 Sienna van also has a 6 speed transmission, and plays VERY nicely with the engine rpm with regard to #2.
11-14-16, 12:30 PM
#103
Racer
59k ...wow. I would be much more interested in the condition of the fuel filter/tank/regulator/pump in a 10 year old car with that little mileage. Of course, I have no idea what "type" of mileage that is. And at this point, I'm just leading you in circles...
Torque converter unlocking. You are driving along on a flat road under steady throttle position approaching an uphill grade at, let's say 40mph. You gently increase throttle to compensate for the grade in an effort to maintain 40mph. Your transmission responds in 1 of 3 ways:
1. Stays in the gear it is in with no change of engine rpm. You steadily increase throttle pressure to hold 40mph.
2. Stays in the gear it is in, but with a noticeable bump in engine rpm. This is what I'm referring to as torque converter "unlocking". Steady foot up the incline.
3. Downshifts, with an obvious corresponding change in engine rpm.
My symptoms were primarily #1 related. My concern was that I was never experiencing #2. and... cue bodily function jokes now. Our 2015 Sienna van also has a 6 speed transmission, and plays VERY nicely with the engine rpm with regard to #2.
Torque converter unlocking. You are driving along on a flat road under steady throttle position approaching an uphill grade at, let's say 40mph. You gently increase throttle to compensate for the grade in an effort to maintain 40mph. Your transmission responds in 1 of 3 ways:
1. Stays in the gear it is in with no change of engine rpm. You steadily increase throttle pressure to hold 40mph.
2. Stays in the gear it is in, but with a noticeable bump in engine rpm. This is what I'm referring to as torque converter "unlocking". Steady foot up the incline.
3. Downshifts, with an obvious corresponding change in engine rpm.
My symptoms were primarily #1 related. My concern was that I was never experiencing #2. and... cue bodily function jokes now. Our 2015 Sienna van also has a 6 speed transmission, and plays VERY nicely with the engine rpm with regard to #2.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/836646-a-couple-of-low-mile-silver-ls-s-in-florida-3.html
As for the torque converter, I will keep an eye on what my tranny does in the test scenario you described. I didn't even know #2 was possible. I thought RPMs can only increase with more gas or a downshift. I am very curious now to see if I can get the tranny to hold the same gear, hold throttle, and still increase RPM. I don't think I paid enough attention to tranny behavior on hills and just grinned how the torque took me to the top. I will pay more attention next time. So if #2 doesn't occur, then what does that indicate or suggest? Thank you.
11-14-16, 01:06 PM
#104
Driver School Candidate
Hi, DSR. I probably could have (and should have) waited longer on the timing belt change. I posted photos of the old timing belt at the link below (post #37) and it looks practically new at 11.7 years of age and 59k miles.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...florida-3.html
As for the torque converter, I will keep an eye on what my tranny does in the test scenario you described. I didn't even know #2 was possible. I thought RPMs can only increase with more gas or a downshift. I am very curious now to see if I can get the tranny to hold the same gear, hold throttle, and still increase RPM. I don't think I paid enough attention to tranny behavior on hills and just grinned how the torque took me to the top. I will pay more attention next time. So if #2 doesn't occur, then what does that indicate or suggest? Thank you.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...florida-3.html
As for the torque converter, I will keep an eye on what my tranny does in the test scenario you described. I didn't even know #2 was possible. I thought RPMs can only increase with more gas or a downshift. I am very curious now to see if I can get the tranny to hold the same gear, hold throttle, and still increase RPM. I don't think I paid enough attention to tranny behavior on hills and just grinned how the torque took me to the top. I will pay more attention next time. So if #2 doesn't occur, then what does that indicate or suggest? Thank you.
I wouldn't worry about it. That fact that you used the words "torque" and "grinned" in the same sentence is a fair indication that you are not experiencing the same symptoms as I was. I too, am now able to use those two words together when describing my car.
01-28-22, 06:27 PM
#105
Driver School Candidate
Quite the write up. I have been having this issue on my 2006 Ls430 with only 135K Klm in the last few month. The car has been outstanding since I bought it at 85K Klm
in 2017 I do not drive with a lead foot approach and enjoyed the smooth throttle response when driving of from a stopped position. Lately when taking foot of the brake the car moves forward (no throttle applied) when applying some/more throttle there is a slight clunk like you might have if a mechanical linkage is taking up slack. The rest of the shifting all appears normal. I have tried the disconnect battery and shifting seem cured but returned after a few drives.
I did have a starting problem which was cured by cleaning the M.A.F.
The starting failure went like this If when cold starting the engine did not catch attempting a restart engine would act as if flooded (yada yada yada) only depressing or letting car sit for a while would let it restart and then it acted like a flooded engine from my carburetor days. After M.A.F cleaning with M.A.F cleaning spray (sensor is a no touch item) I have not had the failed start issue. I like to keep a clean car and can do most repair things myself. I will clean the M.A.F. again. I have avoided dealership attention so far. 5 years and only brake pads and changed steering column motor trunk struts makes this the best car I have owned (Age 74)
in 2017 I do not drive with a lead foot approach and enjoyed the smooth throttle response when driving of from a stopped position. Lately when taking foot of the brake the car moves forward (no throttle applied) when applying some/more throttle there is a slight clunk like you might have if a mechanical linkage is taking up slack. The rest of the shifting all appears normal. I have tried the disconnect battery and shifting seem cured but returned after a few drives.
I did have a starting problem which was cured by cleaning the M.A.F.
The starting failure went like this If when cold starting the engine did not catch attempting a restart engine would act as if flooded (yada yada yada) only depressing or letting car sit for a while would let it restart and then it acted like a flooded engine from my carburetor days. After M.A.F cleaning with M.A.F cleaning spray (sensor is a no touch item) I have not had the failed start issue. I like to keep a clean car and can do most repair things myself. I will clean the M.A.F. again. I have avoided dealership attention so far. 5 years and only brake pads and changed steering column motor trunk struts makes this the best car I have owned (Age 74)