Diy - 01 Ls430 Code P0135 Oxygen Sensor Bank One Sensor 1
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Diy - 01 Ls430 Code P0135 Oxygen Sensor Bank One Sensor 1
Check engine light was on 2001 LS430 pulled codes found P0135 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
1. Bank 1 is on the drivers side, Bank 2 is on the passenger side
2. Sensor 1 is the upper sensor or upstream sensor in the manifold, Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor
3. Disconnect the sensor on the Driver Side, on mine the heatshield was too close to the sensor to be able to get anything in there to push the tab let alone a hand in there do disconnect it, I used a prybar and tweeked the shield a little so I could get a Right Angled Pick in there to push the tab down to release it, the tab is on the part of the connector that is attached via clip to a little metal bracket, and the tab is facing out toward the wheel. Passenger side is easier.
4. Remove the sensor, use an Oxygen Sensor Socket, there's not enough room to for a wrench, if you don't have one borrow one or buy it for $7-10
5. Save some money, if you have a hot enough soldering iron and you can solder you can cut and splice the old connector onto a new generic sensor. I usually stagger the wires to keep the thickness of the group of wires to a minimum. I DO NOT RECOMMEND using the generic connector to splice the wires, spend the extra effort and do it right. I also take the wires out of the connector (write down which goes in which hole they're number 1-4. I do this so I can work the wires/terminals also staggered through the outer shielding insulation it's a little stretchy but not enough, work it slowly and it will go. I also slice the thicker rubber cover off and put it back on where it was with that rubber electrical tape that sticks to itself but isn't tape. Or you can do it however you like.
Advance Auto has them for about $75 if you need it now or you can find them cheaper online, the one I bought was a Bosch 15733 universal type, I believe they are the same both up stream and down stream. The Bosch is a newer style sensor that doesn't look like the original someone said that is a planar style or something like that that switches faster and works better than the older style thimble type. I replaced both of mine so they would age at the same speed, 100k on the clock I figured the other side would be soon to go as well. Plus I read somewhere about lazy sensors not setting codes but reducing your mileage.
6. Clear the codes, and take a ride
if you get the VSC Off light on your dash immediately and the display says Check VSC ( Vehicle Stability Control I believe) it has to do with your code scanner when you read your codes, you'll need to get something to jumper between 2 pins on the obdc connector under the dash the TS and CG pins (see picture courtesy of FYOUNES on one of these posts) igntion off, jumper the 2 pins, turn ignition on, don't start, wait until the vsc test comes up in the display, turn ignition off, pull jumper, start car, go for a ride.
7. Enjoy your ride you just saved a bunch of money 2 sensors for the price of one Denso or whatever that has the right connector. Short of time, get one with the right connector, you should be able to take care of it in about 30 minutes without all the soldering.
Good luck
1. Bank 1 is on the drivers side, Bank 2 is on the passenger side
2. Sensor 1 is the upper sensor or upstream sensor in the manifold, Sensor 2 is the downstream sensor
3. Disconnect the sensor on the Driver Side, on mine the heatshield was too close to the sensor to be able to get anything in there to push the tab let alone a hand in there do disconnect it, I used a prybar and tweeked the shield a little so I could get a Right Angled Pick in there to push the tab down to release it, the tab is on the part of the connector that is attached via clip to a little metal bracket, and the tab is facing out toward the wheel. Passenger side is easier.
4. Remove the sensor, use an Oxygen Sensor Socket, there's not enough room to for a wrench, if you don't have one borrow one or buy it for $7-10
5. Save some money, if you have a hot enough soldering iron and you can solder you can cut and splice the old connector onto a new generic sensor. I usually stagger the wires to keep the thickness of the group of wires to a minimum. I DO NOT RECOMMEND using the generic connector to splice the wires, spend the extra effort and do it right. I also take the wires out of the connector (write down which goes in which hole they're number 1-4. I do this so I can work the wires/terminals also staggered through the outer shielding insulation it's a little stretchy but not enough, work it slowly and it will go. I also slice the thicker rubber cover off and put it back on where it was with that rubber electrical tape that sticks to itself but isn't tape. Or you can do it however you like.
Advance Auto has them for about $75 if you need it now or you can find them cheaper online, the one I bought was a Bosch 15733 universal type, I believe they are the same both up stream and down stream. The Bosch is a newer style sensor that doesn't look like the original someone said that is a planar style or something like that that switches faster and works better than the older style thimble type. I replaced both of mine so they would age at the same speed, 100k on the clock I figured the other side would be soon to go as well. Plus I read somewhere about lazy sensors not setting codes but reducing your mileage.
6. Clear the codes, and take a ride
if you get the VSC Off light on your dash immediately and the display says Check VSC ( Vehicle Stability Control I believe) it has to do with your code scanner when you read your codes, you'll need to get something to jumper between 2 pins on the obdc connector under the dash the TS and CG pins (see picture courtesy of FYOUNES on one of these posts) igntion off, jumper the 2 pins, turn ignition on, don't start, wait until the vsc test comes up in the display, turn ignition off, pull jumper, start car, go for a ride.
7. Enjoy your ride you just saved a bunch of money 2 sensors for the price of one Denso or whatever that has the right connector. Short of time, get one with the right connector, you should be able to take care of it in about 30 minutes without all the soldering.
Good luck
#2
awesome that I found your post! Thanks for this info.
My 2001 LS threw a CEL on right after I had the motor mounts replaced.
I went to Autozone to have it read and now the VSC Off CHECK VSC is on as well. Couldn't get rid of it by battery reset. So, I am at ease now that the VSC is most likely connected to O2 sensor, which is the reason for my CEL light. Autozone guy said O2 sensor 1 bank 1. Same as you have replaced.
Now, I am planning on doing the O2 replacement myself. I'll order the Denso sensor. I'm thinking to do both the bank 1 and 2 front sensors.
So for now, if I wanted to reset the VSC light, can I just use a piece of wire to jump the 2 connectors you mentioned? Will that work?
Thanks!
My 2001 LS threw a CEL on right after I had the motor mounts replaced.
I went to Autozone to have it read and now the VSC Off CHECK VSC is on as well. Couldn't get rid of it by battery reset. So, I am at ease now that the VSC is most likely connected to O2 sensor, which is the reason for my CEL light. Autozone guy said O2 sensor 1 bank 1. Same as you have replaced.
Now, I am planning on doing the O2 replacement myself. I'll order the Denso sensor. I'm thinking to do both the bank 1 and 2 front sensors.
So for now, if I wanted to reset the VSC light, can I just use a piece of wire to jump the 2 connectors you mentioned? Will that work?
Thanks!
#3
Alright!!!!
Using your instructions and a paper clip to jump the 2 connectors on OBDC plug, I was able to kill the VSC OFF CHECK VSC error!
Took it for a spin and the VSC OFF no more! Hopefully it won't come back.
I'll be able to sleep good now!
Now I need some luck for the O2 sensor replacement next week when my order arrives, and I'm all set.
Using your instructions and a paper clip to jump the 2 connectors on OBDC plug, I was able to kill the VSC OFF CHECK VSC error!
Took it for a spin and the VSC OFF no more! Hopefully it won't come back.
I'll be able to sleep good now!
Now I need some luck for the O2 sensor replacement next week when my order arrives, and I'm all set.
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Alright!!!!
Using your instructions and a paper clip to jump the 2 connectors on OBDC plug, I was able to kill the VSC OFF CHECK VSC error!
Took it for a spin and the VSC OFF no more! Hopefully it won't come back.
I'll be able to sleep good now!
Now I need some luck for the O2 sensor replacement next week when my order arrives, and I'm all set.
Using your instructions and a paper clip to jump the 2 connectors on OBDC plug, I was able to kill the VSC OFF CHECK VSC error!
Took it for a spin and the VSC OFF no more! Hopefully it won't come back.
I'll be able to sleep good now!
Now I need some luck for the O2 sensor replacement next week when my order arrives, and I'm all set.
Good luck.
Make sure you have a right angled pick to get in there, the left/drivers side is difficult at best to access.
3. Disconnect the sensor on the Driver Side, on mine the heatshield was too close to the sensor to be able to get anything in there to push the tab let alone a hand in there do disconnect it, I used a prybar and tweeked the shield a little so I could get a Right Angled Pick in there to push the tab down to release it, the tab is on the part of the connector that is attached via clip to a little metal bracket, and the tab is facing out toward the wheel. Passenger side is easier.
#5
Yep. I'll definitely disconnect the battery.
I read and re-read your instructions several times. I bookmarked this page as well, so if I need to read it while I'm working on the car, I can access it from my iPhone and read it(in case I forget to print it out).
I haven't gotten a good look in there yet, as far as what I need to take off the car.
So, once I jack the front of the car up, rest it on 2 jack stands, I'm assuming I will have to take the plastic covers on the bottom off, so i can get to the connector of the sensor, correct?
Did you have to take the wheel off as well?
What I need to pick up so far:
1. right angled pick
2. longer ratchet.
3. oxygen sensor removal socket
If you can recall what needs to be removed to get to the sensor and/or connector, and what tools I need, it would be great! All I have is a small craftsman toolbox. outside of that, if there is any other tools needed, it would be great if you can share what tools you used.
BTW, how welded were the sensors? Did you have to heat the area up to remove them?
Thanks very much for all your help!
I read and re-read your instructions several times. I bookmarked this page as well, so if I need to read it while I'm working on the car, I can access it from my iPhone and read it(in case I forget to print it out).
I haven't gotten a good look in there yet, as far as what I need to take off the car.
So, once I jack the front of the car up, rest it on 2 jack stands, I'm assuming I will have to take the plastic covers on the bottom off, so i can get to the connector of the sensor, correct?
Did you have to take the wheel off as well?
What I need to pick up so far:
1. right angled pick
2. longer ratchet.
3. oxygen sensor removal socket
If you can recall what needs to be removed to get to the sensor and/or connector, and what tools I need, it would be great! All I have is a small craftsman toolbox. outside of that, if there is any other tools needed, it would be great if you can share what tools you used.
BTW, how welded were the sensors? Did you have to heat the area up to remove them?
Thanks very much for all your help!
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I'm assuming I will have to take the plastic covers on the bottom off, so i can get to the connector of the sensor, correct?
Did you have to take the wheel off as well?
What I need to pick up so far:
1. right angled pick
2. longer ratchet.
3. oxygen sensor removal socket
BTW, how welded were the sensors? Did you have to heat the area up to remove them?
Thanks very much for all your help!
Did you have to take the wheel off as well?
What I need to pick up so far:
1. right angled pick
2. longer ratchet.
3. oxygen sensor removal socket
BTW, how welded were the sensors? Did you have to heat the area up to remove them?
Thanks very much for all your help!
Cover comes off 10mm bolts all over the place, I use a 1/4 inch air ratchet or a cordless drill on the lowest setting with a socket bit in it, twisting them with a wrench or ratchet would be a pain.
Right angled pick - I don't think you can get your finger in there, I couldn't be patient, take deep breaths and you'll get it, I'd say that getting this connector disconnected is probably the hardest part of the job
Longer flat blade screwdriver or pry bar if needed, crow bar would work as well, again only if needed to tweak the shield a little to get your pick in there.
I didn't remove the wheel I did it all from under the car, I'm not sure if it would help you or not, I think the shield and other stuff is just in the way from the tire side but I could be wrong.
mine came out pretty easy, yes they were tough to break loose but they didn't need heat or Liquid wrench or anything like that. I used a Snap-On 3/8 inch ratchet with a 1/2 inch adapter on it with an extension to get it out (maybe not, I don't remember if the socket was 3/8" or 1/2"), mind you the handle on this ratchet is probably twice as long as a regular sears ratchet so it offers more leverage. You can use a cheater bar on the end of your ratchet, some people use half the handle off of their jack.
Last edited by speedemon; 04-10-09 at 11:39 AM.
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#8
Update:
Both O2 sensors replaced!
I wasn't in a hurry. It was a beautiful day today.
Got the car on the ramps. Disconnected the battery. Got under the car, took the covers off. Looked at both sensors and decided to start working on passanger side, Bank 2, sensor first. Took about 40 minutes from when I started the whole thing.
I've never changed O2 sensors before so this was a new thing to me. After a good spray of WD40 and about 10 minutes of waiting, Bank 2 sensor came out with absolutely no issues, no hard work.
Bank 1, however, was a major pain in the a$$! Who designed that connector behind the heat shield, with a room of about 3mm to work around it? I had tweak the shield a bit.
I actually managed to get the entire connector off that little rail it sits on, pull it down a little so it came out of the shield neighbourhood, just to make it easier to work with, but it still took me over an hour to do just Bank 1 O2 sensor. It just wasn't breaking loose. WD40, extended ratchet, etc...I had to really work it.
In any case, it is all done now. I am proud that I did not get lazy and did the job myself.
2 brand new Denso O2 sensors are in. Took the car for a spin but did not drive it long enough to know if the CEL is going to come back on or not.
Hopefully not. I think the battery reset should have cleared the error code.
Speedemon, thanks again for all your help man!
This was not even half as bad as I thought it would be, despite the stubborn Bank 1 sensor, and it only took me about 2 hours on a very nice warm day.
Thanks!
Both O2 sensors replaced!
I wasn't in a hurry. It was a beautiful day today.
Got the car on the ramps. Disconnected the battery. Got under the car, took the covers off. Looked at both sensors and decided to start working on passanger side, Bank 2, sensor first. Took about 40 minutes from when I started the whole thing.
I've never changed O2 sensors before so this was a new thing to me. After a good spray of WD40 and about 10 minutes of waiting, Bank 2 sensor came out with absolutely no issues, no hard work.
Bank 1, however, was a major pain in the a$$! Who designed that connector behind the heat shield, with a room of about 3mm to work around it? I had tweak the shield a bit.
I actually managed to get the entire connector off that little rail it sits on, pull it down a little so it came out of the shield neighbourhood, just to make it easier to work with, but it still took me over an hour to do just Bank 1 O2 sensor. It just wasn't breaking loose. WD40, extended ratchet, etc...I had to really work it.
In any case, it is all done now. I am proud that I did not get lazy and did the job myself.
2 brand new Denso O2 sensors are in. Took the car for a spin but did not drive it long enough to know if the CEL is going to come back on or not.
Hopefully not. I think the battery reset should have cleared the error code.
Speedemon, thanks again for all your help man!
This was not even half as bad as I thought it would be, despite the stubborn Bank 1 sensor, and it only took me about 2 hours on a very nice warm day.
Thanks!
#9
Lexus Test Driver
Hey Speedemon, I've got to thank you for that post you wrote at the other forum- Lexus Owners. My VSC and VSC Off lights came on after I changed the oxygen sensor. I thought I toasted an ECU after I pulled the codes.
Reading the various posts on the internet, it seemed that some people actually were told by dealers that they had to change their VSC or ABS ECUs for thousand grand or more because of the VSC light on symptom. When in fact, the act of pulling the codes or turning off the CEL is the culprit with some OBD-II scanners.
Reading the various posts on the internet, it seemed that some people actually were told by dealers that they had to change their VSC or ABS ECUs for thousand grand or more because of the VSC light on symptom. When in fact, the act of pulling the codes or turning off the CEL is the culprit with some OBD-II scanners.
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Hey Speedemon, I've got to thank you for that post you wrote at the other forum- Lexus Owners. My VSC and VSC Off lights came on after I changed the oxygen sensor. I thought I toasted an ECU after I pulled the codes.
Reading the various posts on the internet, it seemed that some people actually were told by dealers that they had to change their VSC or ABS ECUs for thousand grand or more because of the VSC light on symptom. When in fact, the act of pulling the codes or turning off the CEL is the culprit with some OBD-II scanners.
Reading the various posts on the internet, it seemed that some people actually were told by dealers that they had to change their VSC or ABS ECUs for thousand grand or more because of the VSC light on symptom. When in fact, the act of pulling the codes or turning off the CEL is the culprit with some OBD-II scanners.
#11
Driver School Candidate
Let me tell you something speedmon. YOU ARE THE MAN!!!
I just replaced my bank1 and 2 O2 sensors yesterday and yes, the driver side was a pain in the butt. Right after i changed it and cleared all the codes, the VSC light came on and I just did exactly what you said on how to reset the VSC and Voila!!! Its cleared now! I dont know how to thank you much for this thread my man! It saved me a bunch of money by doing it my self. The paper clip did the trick to jump the TS and CG connectors. THANKS AGAIN!
I just replaced my bank1 and 2 O2 sensors yesterday and yes, the driver side was a pain in the butt. Right after i changed it and cleared all the codes, the VSC light came on and I just did exactly what you said on how to reset the VSC and Voila!!! Its cleared now! I dont know how to thank you much for this thread my man! It saved me a bunch of money by doing it my self. The paper clip did the trick to jump the TS and CG connectors. THANKS AGAIN!
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Well, there is no way I'm going to attempt this myself (I love CarTalk, but I know my limitations), but reading this thread, which describes the exact issue I have with my 2001 LS430 (CEL P0135 then check VSC after code reading) at least now I feel like I know what is going on and I won't get "taken" when I go to the shop!
Thanks to everyone for your generosity.
Thanks to everyone for your generosity.
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