LS - 3rd Gen (2001-2006) Discussion topics related to the flagship Lexus LS430

Lowered the UCF30! Pics

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Old 02-27-08, 02:45 PM
  #16  
airtime
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Originally Posted by mikepae
i paid a local machine shop $25 to shorten and rethread mine. make sure you have them add threads to the correct side of the rod.
+1

Yes, one side is regular, the other is reverse and very few people have a reverse set of dies.
Old 02-27-08, 09:36 PM
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stockgs300
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freaking beautiful car
Old 03-11-08, 10:59 PM
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KilaWombat
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Originally Posted by stockgs300
freaking beautiful car
+1 Looks real good!
Old 03-12-08, 03:38 AM
  #19  
motohide
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Default Here's Mine...

Old 03-12-08, 06:22 AM
  #20  
KINGLS430
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SO if i wanted to lower the front and inch and a half and the rear one inch i could just tighten these rods or whouldi have to cut them? I want the ride to be good and i don't want to slam it just want to give it a more agressive stance when i put my summer tires on they tend to stick out a little bit so i can't slam it but like i said give it a more agressive stance.
Old 03-12-08, 09:22 AM
  #21  
airtime
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Kingls430, the front you would just twist the rod to get the lowering, I believe without cutting, you should be able to get about 1-1/2" drop. For the rear, there is a sliding bracket and easily can do a 1" drop. Remember after the adjustment to start the car and wait for it to adjust, about 2 to 3 minutes the most. Then fine tune each corner as it can vary in height and the front corners affects the opposite side rears. The rides remain the same to me, I don't feel any more stiffness or bobbing than normal height.
Old 03-12-08, 12:23 PM
  #22  
ancdmd
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Make SURE you are on a perfectly flat surface or you will never get the suspension leveled correctly. Move the car around and recheck it, if the pavement is uneven then the fender height measurements will be different after you move the car. I found a parking garage with pre-cast concrete slab construction that seemed to be fairly flat; my concrete driveway wasn't, even though it LOOKED flat.
Old 03-12-08, 02:23 PM
  #23  
KINGLS430
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I'm going to attempt this next week while im home from school and we'll see what happens.
Old 03-12-08, 03:34 PM
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lsflame
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Here are pics of the mending plates. I got them with zinc coating and I used zinc coated bolts. To avoid wear and tear and corrosion resistnce...


Old 03-12-08, 07:15 PM
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airtime
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Damn, you MacGyver'ed it How about a picture of how low your car is?
Old 03-12-08, 07:27 PM
  #26  
lsflame
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My car is the first post or check out this

Last edited by lsflame; 03-12-08 at 07:30 PM.
Old 03-12-08, 07:30 PM
  #27  
lsflame
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OH btw guys! Thanks for the comments...
Old 03-12-08, 07:32 PM
  #28  
GATO
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damn bro the car is looking sickkko


sy=till not getting the deal with the mending brackets... if you have time om me the mechanics behind this...
Old 03-12-08, 07:44 PM
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lsflame
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As you can see in this pic. All I did was purchase these:

2" Stanley Mending in Steel from Ace Hardware which offers them with Zinc Coated also:


Purchased 4 Steel Grade 10.9 Diameter: 8mm x 1.25



Then 4 Steel Grade 10.9 Nylon Locking nuts:


Front:
1. I disconnected the turnbuckle from the control arm leaving it free
2. Connected the mending plate to the control arm using 1 of the bolts and a Nylon Locking nut
3. Make sure the mending plate is towards the inside of the mounting tab meaning it is pointing towards the engine not the wheels.
4. Then attached the turnbuckle to the to the other side of the mending plate
5. Repeat to other side

Rear:
1. I disconnected the sensor for rear axle mount right infont of the mufflers
2. I placed the mending plate against the mounting tab and ran a 1 of the new bolts through the eyelet and through the mounting tab on the axle and securely fastened it with the locking nut
3. make sure you mount the mending plate towards the outside of the car meaning it should stick out wards towards the wheels
4. I placed the sensor mount through the other hole in the mending plate and again tightened it till it was finger tight.
5. Repeat to other side.


Adjustment:
Front
1. Adjust the turnbuckle to full tight
2. Set the vehicle to high height
3. Wait 2-3 minutes as the vehicle rises
4. Adjust and tighten the bolts to be perfectly parallel with the control arms
5. This gives you stock ride height
6. To lower the vehicle place the vehicle in Normal Mode
7. Wait 2-3 Minutes as the vehicle settles
8. Loosen the mending plates from the moutning tabs ever so slightly
9. Adjust the angle of the each mending plate from running parallel to be a more acute angle meaning it is pointing up towards the control wheel and down towards the engine side of the car.
10. Measure the gap between the mending plate and the control arm on the closest side and match the other side of the vehicle.

Rear:
1. Losen the mending plate and push it down till it touches the control arm.
2. Angle the mending plate as far down as it will go
3. It will sit almost perfectly parallel to the control arm
4. This is the lowest it will go and if you want to go lower use 2.5" or 3" mending plates to space the mounting further from the tab.

So I drive in high height to avoid all the possibilities of getting stuck and scraping and when I feel like sitting uber low I hit the normal button and the car sinks and I have about 2" of clearance from my cats to the road.

Hope that explains it. if you need more help you got my number let me know.











just gimme a call any time and i will explain it pmd you my number

Last edited by lsflame; 03-12-08 at 08:13 PM.
Old 03-15-08, 12:24 AM
  #30  
ISmy350JDM
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clean man!


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