Replacing brake pads on my LS430 was... CAKE!
#46
Now you slide the inner pad out. I had to jiggle them a little and pull out at the same time. The wire you see attached to it is the pad sensor. When the pad is out flip it around to the back. You will see a very small metal clip on the top of the sensor. I used a very small flathead screwdriver to pop the clip off. Then use the same screwdriver to push the sensor from the bottom to slide it out. If you hold a new pad beside the old one you can see where the sensor slides in. When you have it off of the old pad slide it into the new pad and push the clip on with your fingers.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#47
Now you have to compress the pistons to remove the outer pad. Attach a small c-clamp to the end of the inner pad and the exterior of the brake assembly and tighten. The cylinders are easily compressed.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#48
Out comes the outer pad. See the two circles on the back? Those are marks left by the pistons. There are two more on the inner pad side. You have to compress all four to reinstall the new pads.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#49
Here's a look at the two pistons on the inner pad side. The dark ring around each piston is a rubber seal. You don't want to damage it. The inner ring with rust on it is the metal piston. That is where you will place your large screwdriver to pry/push them in. That rusty thing in between the pistons that looks like an old water wheel is the rotor.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#50
Here is the screwdriver prying the pistons back. You must do it to all four. It is a little hard but once they start to move they just glide in. Remember don't damage the rubber seal!
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#51
The new pads slide in. The old pads had two metal plates on the backs of them. Put them on the new pads. I did the fronts first. Each rear wheel only took 5 minutes. The fronts took one hour including setting the jack, removing tires, and making sure I was careful not to damage anything. There are only sensors on the passenger side front and rear. Remember to replace the cap to the brake fluid reservoir. You will have to pump your brakes a few times to reset the pistons since they are pushed in. Do that while you are in the driveway NOT moving.
I also bedded my brakes. You go to a road you where can get up to 60mph. Accelerate to 60 brake to 45, accelerate to 60 brake to 45, do that 5-6 times. Then accelerate to 60 brake to 20, accelerate to 60 brake to 20, 5-6 times. Don't come to a complete stop. Then drive around for 10 minutes to let the brakes cool. You will smell them during the bedding process!
I also bedded my brakes. You go to a road you where can get up to 60mph. Accelerate to 60 brake to 45, accelerate to 60 brake to 45, do that 5-6 times. Then accelerate to 60 brake to 20, accelerate to 60 brake to 20, 5-6 times. Don't come to a complete stop. Then drive around for 10 minutes to let the brakes cool. You will smell them during the bedding process!
Last edited by lex2001; 04-22-08 at 05:47 PM.
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Fsport4lif (12-20-22)
#52
lex2001, fantastic writeup. This should be a sticky
Even though I don't need my brakes changed yet, I'm thinking about doing it before the sensor goes off so I don't have to replace it. Did you use factory pads or after market? Any squealing noise? I hate that.
Even though I don't need my brakes changed yet, I'm thinking about doing it before the sensor goes off so I don't have to replace it. Did you use factory pads or after market? Any squealing noise? I hate that.
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I got the pads from: https://www.******************.com/
Lexus 2004 Japan (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $53.95 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-146858
Lexus 2004 Japan (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $53.95 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-146868
So it was $108 total... Lot better than the $700-$800 the stealership was going to charge!
Sad part is now I've done this, I could easily do a car in under 1 hour. At current dealer rates, that's $125.
I wonder where the other $475 goes when using a dealership?
Lexus 2004 Japan (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $53.95 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-146858
Lexus 2004 Japan (OEM) Brake Pad Set Price: $53.95 Qty: 1 Part #: N1010-146868
So it was $108 total... Lot better than the $700-$800 the stealership was going to charge!
Sad part is now I've done this, I could easily do a car in under 1 hour. At current dealer rates, that's $125.
I wonder where the other $475 goes when using a dealership?
I am new to this club so apologies if I am not following correct etiquettes. The website that you mentioned in your post#5 is all '*'ed out. Can you please post it again may be not as a link but as a keyword? Appreciate the help.
Regards,
Al
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From someone who has done countless brake pad, and back in the day - brake shoe, changes on lots of different cars I would recommend never buying anything other than OEM pads. Aftermarket pads generally will squeek or squeel (anti-squeel on the backs of the pads helps but doesn't fix the problem).
Brake pad replacement even on a Lexus is as EZ as Moogy says. Replace the bolt, use OEM pads only and change the pads before you damage your rotors. If you do this there is no need whatsoever to replace or 'resurface' the rotors. If you've already overheated your brakes from hard driving or very steep mountain roads just replace the rotors as well.
One other thing - if you plan on selling the car within a couple of years you should probably take it to the 'stealer' to have the work done not because they will do a better job but because having the dealer do all your maintainence will make it easier to sell. Would you buy a LS430 that some clown "maintained" himself?! You and I know that the work you do is as good or better than the dealer but most people don't know that. If you plan on keeping it for a very long time then you should do all your work yourself and save a fortune.
Brake pad replacement even on a Lexus is as EZ as Moogy says. Replace the bolt, use OEM pads only and change the pads before you damage your rotors. If you do this there is no need whatsoever to replace or 'resurface' the rotors. If you've already overheated your brakes from hard driving or very steep mountain roads just replace the rotors as well.
One other thing - if you plan on selling the car within a couple of years you should probably take it to the 'stealer' to have the work done not because they will do a better job but because having the dealer do all your maintainence will make it easier to sell. Would you buy a LS430 that some clown "maintained" himself?! You and I know that the work you do is as good or better than the dealer but most people don't know that. If you plan on keeping it for a very long time then you should do all your work yourself and save a fortune.
Good thoughts about the OEM pads. What is your experience about the OEM rotors? The OEM rotors are extremely expensive (135 a piece for front rotors and 85 a piece for rear rotors). Are the OME rotors worth the money (total more than 400 bucks)? Or is it ok to use non-oem rotors?
If you can tell me a place where I could get cheaper OEM rotors, that will help too.
Regards,
Al
#56
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Al, try this location,,
http://www.irontoad.com/Merchant2/me...Code=2005ls430
is for my 2005,,
should be able to locate your make and year,,
Derry
http://www.irontoad.com/Merchant2/me...Code=2005ls430
is for my 2005,,
should be able to locate your make and year,,
Derry
#57
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To answer about rotors, I just did the brake pads, but I do have some squeaking, so if I were to do all of it again, I'd do the rotors as well, however resurfacing is probably cheaper than buying completely new rotors. Not sure though, nor am I sure of the equipment necessary to resurface a rotor - never done it! But if you are doing your brakes ~50K miles and the rotors have never been resurfaced, definitely consider doing the rotors as well. The squeaking only occasionally happens when I'm coming to a stop, but it's still annoying...
#58
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Al, try this location,,
http://www.irontoad.com/Merchant2/me...Code=2005ls430
is for my 2005,,
should be able to locate your make and year,,
Derry
http://www.irontoad.com/Merchant2/me...Code=2005ls430
is for my 2005,,
should be able to locate your make and year,,
Derry
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Actually I cannot remember heh. I wonder why the site gets ***'d out... Weird! It may have been http://www.******************.com.
To answer about rotors, I just did the brake pads, but I do have some squeaking, so if I were to do all of it again, I'd do the rotors as well, however resurfacing is probably cheaper than buying completely new rotors. Not sure though, nor am I sure of the equipment necessary to resurface a rotor - never done it! But if you are doing your brakes ~50K miles and the rotors have never been resurfaced, definitely consider doing the rotors as well. The squeaking only occasionally happens when I'm coming to a stop, but it's still annoying...
To answer about rotors, I just did the brake pads, but I do have some squeaking, so if I were to do all of it again, I'd do the rotors as well, however resurfacing is probably cheaper than buying completely new rotors. Not sure though, nor am I sure of the equipment necessary to resurface a rotor - never done it! But if you are doing your brakes ~50K miles and the rotors have never been resurfaced, definitely consider doing the rotors as well. The squeaking only occasionally happens when I'm coming to a stop, but it's still annoying...
Al
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Issue after replacement of brakes and rotors
Guys, I did replace both brakes and rotors on my 2001 LS430. I did the front brakes and rotors on the first weekend and everything worked fine. Then I did the rear brakes and rotors the next weekend(all OEM parts). After I did the work on rear wheels, the brakes are working fine but while braking, I get a humming sound when the car goes from 20mph to 5mph. It is not the usual screech but a hum. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this before and has any recommendations. Appreciate the feedback and advise. Please let me know if you need more information.