Greetings All.
2001 LS. I just got new tires and alignment. Now the steering wheel turns maybe 2-3” back and forth before any actual ‘steering’ takes place.
this is not the up/down or in/out of the steering motor, but the wheel itself.
it seems as though the steering shaft is not tight when connected to the steering rack.
before I jack it up and start tearing things apart, I wanted to get some direction.
thx.

 

Also, if the steering rack bushings are bad, will changing them throw off the alignment?

 

im having the same issue. Bump!

 

I finally got this resolved today on my RC. I loathe suspension sm and have tried everything under the sun: tires changed, 7 alignments, RCF LCA bushings, ball joints, sway links, tightening my steering yoke.

Today was the day... I lifted my car and right underneath where the steering meets the rack is a pretensioner

. Use channel locks to release the lock nut and what I used was 3/8ths bolt with an additional nut to insert it into this part and tighten it. Once youve tightened it and the locknut you should be good to go. It eliminated so much of my freeplay I had maybe over 1.5-2" of freeplay before the wheels started turning.

My steering is tighter and "returns to center" way better than it did prior with its fat dead zone. My car was swaying to the grooves of the freeway and would either be squirely or get sticky.

 

thanks for the reply. So removal of the big nut in the picture and added info a 3/8th bolt? Is the big nut smaller on the inside?

 

The alignment shop should have tightened the steering as it is very common. This adjustment has been around as far back as I can remember and probably from the beginning of cars. Tighten and back off 1/4 turn I think is the procedure just like for adjusting bearings.

 

Excellent info. Thanks!

 

The 3/8ths bolt is just a tool to help adjust the preload, you'll only use it to tighten as the head of the bolt will fit the spot. Reason why I added the nut on top of is to have better control of how much im tightening it as the bolt will be flush. Just make sure when you adjust have the steering wheel centered, then test it out either by having someone turning the wheel or grabbing the steering shaft and rotate it to see if the wheels will move along with it.
I'm not exactly sure what your spec might be but for the RC its 1.5 to 2.46 N*m (16 to 25 kgf*cm, 14 to 21 in.*lbf)

 

Its not that common today to have the preload tightened. I've asked so many techs and mechanics about freeplay and its just a laundry list of what could be up with the steering. This isnt even a serviceable option in the repair manual, it only says that if the preload isn't in spec to replace the entire power steering link. Maybe because I also have EPS that everyone assumes if its not any other suspension part I've tackled, then its because the steering is electric. Womp Womp. Took me almost 10 months.

 

So I tightened it up. It did take a lot of play out. I went from about 3” of travel before any ‘steering’ takes place to about 1/2”.
any way to take the remaining slop out?

 

I agree with not being not as common today as my 2001 LS430 has 187k and no play at all.

 

So has anyone had a bad U-joint on their intermediate shaft? That sounds so weird!
anyways, could that the the extra play I the steering column?

 

I will try to tighten today when I bleed my brakes! I’ll update as well thanks

 

that was my first initial thought. The joint underneath the steering wheel. But wanted to see if there were other options, that piece is not cheap.

 

Going to try this and update the post