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My MPX-1 MPX-2 MPX-3 and DOME fuses are not getting power when I tested them with a voltometer resulting in some of my cluster lights not working as well as some lights and electric key fob locks
Ok that is the first step. I am assuming you have disconnected the new amp and sub to see if any difference. Where did you get the power source for the sub and amp? Do you have or can find a wiring diagram and know how to read it once acquired? If not I will be back home early next week and have full manuals and will help you diagnose the problem. You have a main power source that is missing and I can trace it backwards to see where the problem is. As I said before it is either a fuse open or burnt into wire and hopefully not a control unit. We will be able to pinpoint exactly where the problem is. Another thought is to look around everywhere you were when installing new system and make sure no connectors are unplugged.
Ok that is the first step. I am assuming you have disconnected the new amp and sub to see if any difference. Where did you get the power source for the sub and amp? Do you have or can find a wiring diagram and know how to read it once acquired? If not I will be back home early next week and have full manuals and will help you diagnose the problem. You have a main power source that is missing and I can trace it backwards to see where the problem is. As I said before it is either a fuse open or burnt into wire and hopefully not a control unit. We will be able to pinpoint exactly where the problem is. Another thought is to look around everywhere you were when installing new system and make sure no connectors are unplugged.
I do not have the wiring diagrams for the car, I did have that common driver side trunk getting water in it but the fuse box was all good I’m just not sure what relays are connected to it because from the looks of the ones that are they seemed to be good
It is hard to tell without voltage measurements at right places. Thought you said this happened when installing new system. Did you have to touch that fuse box any at all for installation even moving? (important to know)
It is hard to tell without voltage measurements at right places. Thought you said this happened when installing new system. Did you have to touch that fuse box any at all for installation even moving? (important to know)
no I didn’t mess with the trunk fuse box during installation, December of last year some water had got in and I got it all out and that fuse box ended up working still, just had some condensation on the inside
Great... I see you are in CA as I am in NC. Post here Sunday sometime if you still need my help and I will look into it Monday morning. Also from previous question where did you tap in for power for new system?
Great... I see you are in CA as I am in NC. Post here Sunday sometime if you still need my help and I will look into it Monday morning. Also from previous question where did you tap in for power for new system?
the 2 power cables are on the battery terminal and the grounds are in the trunk under those latches.
Great...need to know all this for diagnosing. You might want to add a manual high amperage switch (generally a circuit breaker with manual lever) if don't drive car a lot for battery drainage as constant power keeps capacitors charged in amp. Let me know Sunday if still need my help
Great...need to know all this for diagnosing. You might want to add a manual high amperage switch (generally a circuit breaker with manual lever) if don't drive car a lot for battery drainage as constant power keeps capacitors charged in amp. Let me know Sunday if still need my help
I ended up being impatient and found the wiring diagram and found out that the D/C fuse wasn’t getting power to the fuse box so I ran a whole new wire to it and it ended up working, not sure if that will be a permanent fix but it seemed to fix it. Was not at all a hard fix if someone else has this problem.
Yep...that was my suggestion to you in other thread you posted yesterday after I saw the diagram. That is a permanent fix and I have done that quite often in electronic repair to save time.