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I think I have a problem with my brake pads not fully disengaging. The passenger side front rotor is harder to spin(a lot of resistance) when compared to the driver side front rotor. I think that the problem is the brake pads since the rotors have no problem spinning with the brake pads removed.
I tried applying brake grease to the shims, and other relevant brake hardware. But, the problem is still there. Uploading a video and will post the link here once it’s uploaded.
I think I have a problem with my brake pads not fully disengaging. The passenger side front rotor is harder to spin(a lot of resistance) when compared to the driver side front rotor. I think that the problem is the brake pads since the rotors have no problem spinning with the brake pads removed.
I tried applying brake grease to the shims, and other relevant brake hardware. But, the problem is still there. Uploading a video and will post the link here once it’s uploaded.
what other things could I try doing?
I would be looking for a sticking caliper on the problem side. Check the pads for abnormal wear.
Another simple way to check for this is to take it for a 20 min drive in stop and go traffic. Once you are parked, take a laser thermometer and check each front rotors temperature. If one is way hotter than the other then you could have a seized/sticking caliper.
Disc brakes don't fully disengage - there can/will be some drag on the rotor.
If the pads are free to move/slide normally in the caliper, there may be some blockage in the system that's preventing the pads from moving outwards. It's not uncommon to have the rubber lines that are connected to the calpiters to become deteriorated in the inside, preventing brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder.
BTW, it looks like you have a wheel/caliper clearance issue.
Disc brakes don't fully disengage - there can/will be some drag on the rotor.
If the pads are free to move/slide normally in the caliper, there may be some blockage in the system that's preventing the pads from moving outwards. It's not uncommon to have the rubber lines that are connected to the calpiters to become deteriorated in the inside, preventing brake fluid from returning to the master cylinder.
BTW, it looks like you have a wheel/caliper clearance issue.
Ah, after looking at that picture again I can see where the wheel has rubbed on the top of the caliper...
as mentioned, some drag is expected and negligible. you cannot determine if too much drag is bad just by spinning the rotors yourself. i would do the temperature test as mentioned by fondu.
Actually is is a bit surprising how well they do disengage if they work well. My 1995 and 1998 LS400 brakes disengage completely if they are serviced and do not stick due to dirt and rust. Only very small touching contact when wheel is spun by hand. I expect that the piston seals are designed to withdraw the pistons slightly when fluid pressure is removed if everything is free to move as it should.
I have expereinced quite severe sticking and uneven wear on the rear when I had not serviced the brakes for several years. I needed to take all accsesory bits out and clean them as well as scrape corrosion of caliper surfaces in contact with pads and change the pads to new due to uneven wear. Before this fix the old pads needed a screwdriver as lever to move.
a brake fluid change would also help if the fluid has deteriorated to a very slimy state. I did that on another car's hydraulic clutch master cylinder and it no longer sticks anymore.