This car I just bought is driving me nuts already.
As I was removing the temperature sensor, (for the gauge) from the water bypass tube, it snapped just like a bolt would. Problem is, it snapped flush so there's nothing to grab. In my whole life, and the thousands of cars I've worked on, I've only had to remove a broken bolt once and it was an easy one. I don't want to just go in and drill it and mess up the threads on the bypass tube, then I'd really be screwed.
What I need to know is; What is the best way, and best tool, to extract the threaded part of the sensor that is still in there? I know I could search or google it but I trust the opinions from the people here a whole lot more then who knows who, and I won't get steered wrong.
Thanks

EDIT; I should mention the threaded part of the sensor is hollow. It snapped on the threaded part, so as it did snap at flush, there's just threads to threads and then the solid bottom of the sensor down farther. I don't have a camera to show what I'm talking about, that'd be to easy.
But in the1st post of this thread https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...ange-pics.html you can see the full sensor, and where it's located. That might help trying to picture what I'm describing. Mine is the grey topped sensor next to the ECT. (green one) Sorry I don't have my own pics.

 

Are you planning to remove the crossover to effect repairs?

 

I'd rather not, I'm trying to do everything by taking off the least amount of parts. But now that I think about it, I don't want the broken piece to fall inside. If I have to then I will. If I do screw up the threads, I still have my parts car so I could take the crossover off of that. (And just leave that sensor alone) But with my injury and less strength now, I'm trying not to double my work.

 

Was wondering how you keep the shavings out of the coolant system.

Acquire another crossover.

 

Good observation and thought but shavings wouldn't go in cuz the part that's in there is solid on the bottom. I guess I'm gonna try an "easy-out" if I can find one the right size, or a backwards drill bit, cuz the way it sits now is as if it was a regular bolt that was drilled already, with just threads at top. (Thick enough for easy-out to grab) I'm just hoping whatever I use doesn't go through the sensor threads and ruin the threads in the crossover, then I'd have to get another one. Thanks for the reply though.

 

I'm not sure what else you could use except a screw/bolt extractor. Possibly in conjunction with a left-handed drill bit.

 

The sensor snapped because...?

 

Corrosion?? 30 year old part?? Millions of heat cycles?? It's hollow, the brass (???) is thin and stuck in there pretty tight?? I really don't know the exact reason.

 

I am thinking the same as you and aptoslexus, deanshark. Probably have to drill and create a reverse thread, then you can extract the original threads from the car.

I agree that it would be be safest to remove the crossover tube even with the drilling option, so that there is no risk of metal shavings in the cooling system, but it would be a lot of work as you said. If I remember correctly, the sensor has a tiny pinhole at the bottom of the stem (past the threads), but it shouldn't be big enough to let shavings into the engine if you don't drill too deep into the sensor.

If the thread is really seized, penetrating fluid could be needed but it would make its way into the crossover tube too..

Sorry to hear you're facing this.. Definitely good that you have a parts car.

 

Thanks for the encouragement CELSIOR. I ended up buying a screw and bolt extractor set yesterday and gonna try that soon. (when the weather hits 40*) It would be nice to have all my old tools, and my warm garage but those days are in the past. Now I just deal with what I got. Either run 200 feet of extension cord, or buy a cordless drill for this one job. Every one of these sensors that I see online that snapped are either Toyota or Honda. No offense but are they cheaply made in Japan? I'm not too worried about using penetrating oil cuz I'm getting the coolant flushed as soon as I'm done with all this. Ill update after I try it.

 

If I recall, 1993 LS400 has a fill hole(?) bolt mounted on the thermostat housing that would not budge...and was not going to force it because I did not have a spare housing..


Fill hole bolt on thermostat housing did not want to budge and applying more torque would probably break something else.
30 years of immersion in coolant has probably fused steel bolt to Aluminum housing requiring application of heat to remove it.


In your case perhaps dissimilar metal corrosion or fusing between Aluminum crossover and temperature sensor threads.

One thing to extract a broken part from a tapped hole that has snapped off because it was cheaply made, yet another to remove a part which his fused itself.

I mention because if not applying heat to the part, then it is possible to shear away the female threads (crossover).along with the sensor probe.

Acquire a spare crossover and experiment with it beforehand.

 

Thank you YODAONE. Yes, I'm pretty sure it has fused itself on there with all the heat cycles and how hot these engines get. (even without overheating) I just went out in this 30* weather and looked at it. The extractor set I got, the biggest one #5, just fits in and grabs a tiny bit turning in by hand. Haven't tried the drill yet cuz I don't have that much cord. (gotta waste more money on a cordless) I tried turning it with channel locks and didn't budge. Being without a car it's gonna hold off for another day or so.
Here's a part I need to just vent on before I go friggin nuts and start smashing everything on the car. As I was trying to figure out my predicament, I look at the ECT sensor I just installed a couple days ago and I see some coolant near it. I thought maybe it was just overspill from when I removed it.......NOPE. I went to soak it up and as I touched the ECT, it moved. I don't believe it, I friggin snapped that one putting it in and I didn't even know it. When I put the connector on it, it seemed fine. How the hell did I do that? I don't think I tightened it that tight, just snug. I've changed so many of these sensors on other cars and never had any kind of problems. Well, now I hold off til I get a cordless drill and a propane torch. So much for changing a $10 sensor, just cuz I was in there. Thanks for letting me vent.

 

That's unfortunately the way some of these repairs go. "An easy 15 minute job" turns into a multi day, multi parts hunt to replace other items that break or require more tools to get the job done.

 

bummer sorry to hear!
i would try and drill a very small pilot hole (but not all the way through of course) and see if an extractor or "easy out" can bite into it. also soak it pb blaster before trying to extract.

amazon sells a set with various sizes:

 

I've always told my kids "if you're not 100% sure about something, just ask." So I'm gonna take my own advice.
Quick question about applying the heat. I've gotten old rusted bolts off with heat in the past, the way, way past. But I've never had to get stuck bolts out of aluminum parts. How much heat should I apply to this? I just picked up a regular propane torch. Should I heat the aluminum crossover pipe or try to heat the brass sensor? (Which would be difficult) If heating the crossover, should I already have the extractor in the sensor ready to turn out? Just wondering how quick it will cool down. I've been watching all kinds of videos but none have been my exact situation. They also say ya don't see the aluminum heating up red like metal, so how do I know when it's hot enough? I don't want to ruin the aluminum.
Thanks.