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Extracting snapped temp sensor

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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 03:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by deanshark
I've always told my kids "if you're not 100% sure about something, just ask." So I'm gonna take my own advice.
Quick question about applying the heat. I've gotten old rusted bolts off with heat in the past, the way, way past. But I've never had to get stuck bolts out of aluminum parts. How much heat should I apply to this? I just picked up a regular propane torch. Should I heat the aluminum crossover pipe or try to heat the brass sensor? (Which would be difficult) If heating the crossover, should I already have the extractor in the sensor ready to turn out? Just wondering how quick it will cool down. I've been watching all kinds of videos but none have been my exact situation. They also say ya don't see the aluminum heating up red like metal, so how do I know when it's hot enough? I don't want to ruin the aluminum.
Thanks.
Have you extracted the crossover from vehicle??
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 04:23 PM
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A smaller localized heat source that may be an option is a soldering iron. I'm not sure if this may be applicable though this is far less temp than using a propane or MAPP torch that can be excessively hot.
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 05:42 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by YODAONE
Have you extracted the crossover from vehicle??
No. I know it would be easier to remove the broken sensor if I had the crossover on a bench, which I don't have and I don't want to put a vice on my kitchen table. Plus I don't want to remove anything else and take another chance of messing something else up that I'd have to fix or replace. I just have to be very careful with this now, that's why I'm not rushing into it and asking other questions.

Originally Posted by RA40
A smaller localized heat source that may be an option is a soldering iron. I'm not sure if this may be applicable though this is far less temp than using a propane or MAPP torch that can be excessively hot.
I was trying to think of something smaller like that or maybe even a pen torch but not sure how much, or how little, heat they give off. I still got a little time to investigate more options to see what's best, instead of just jumping in and busting everything.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and advice. Keep em comin if there's any more, I really appreciate it.
I was looking at these induction heaters but man they're expensive. Something like this;
Amazon Amazon

Last edited by deanshark; Nov 30, 2021 at 05:55 PM.
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Old Nov 30, 2021 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by deanshark
No. I know it would be easier to remove the broken sensor if I had the crossover on a bench, which I don't have and I don't want to put a vice on my kitchen table. Plus I don't want to remove anything else and take another chance of messing something else up that I'd have to fix or replace. I just have to be very careful with this now, that's why I'm not rushing into it and asking other questions.


I was trying to think of something smaller like that or maybe even a pen torch but not sure how much, or how little, heat they give off. I still got a little time to investigate more options to see what's best, instead of just jumping in and busting everything.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and advice. Keep em comin if there's any more, I really appreciate it.
I was looking at these induction heaters but man they're expensive. Something like this; https://www.amazon.com/Solary-Magnet...851C6Q22&psc=1

Is it safe?
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 04:11 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by YODAONE
Is it safe?
That's exactly what I'm asking. "Is it safe" to heat the aluminum? Removing the crossover is not an option at this point. It'd be different if I had a garage and every tool I needed. I know there's people here with more knowledge about using heat then me. The link I posted for the induction heater was just for visual explanation. I guess I'll just have to try it with the propane torch. I'll start with heating it just a little and work my way up to more heat if needed. I just gotta think positive. Eh, at least it's gonna be 42* today with no wind.
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 08:14 AM
  #21  
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Update, bad update. Well, I don't have to worry about putting any heat to it now. A few hours ago I sprayed it with PB Blaster. Just went out to check it but wasn't expecting anything. I put the extractor in and used an adjustable wrench to see if it would budge. It did. Started turning it and as I see more and more threads coming up and out. I was getting happy, all of a sudden the side of the crossover pipe broke off and I also saw a crack going the other direction. Tears of joy turned to tears of disgust very quick. Ever seen a grown man cry? I guess it's gotta come off now. Might just get a new crossover if I can instead of taking it off the parts car. That one is probably pretty corroded too. So much for a $10 sensor that was being changed "just cuz I was in there". From now on, if it ain't broke, I ain't fixing it. Hopefully nothing else breaks taking the crossover out.
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 08:30 AM
  #22  
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💩 happens. Explains why the sensor broke, not the fault of the sensor the aluminum corroded and took the sensor with it. Thanks for the update.
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 08:50 AM
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Anyone recommend a front coolant crossover vendor to OP?
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 05:17 PM
  #24  
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ah bummer dean! went from bad to worse. don't you still have your old LS (with bad brakelines)? perhaps pull the crossover from that engine?
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Old Dec 1, 2021 | 06:39 PM
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Ouch, sorry to hear. Getting broken taps out uses the universal language that starts with oh-S followed with strings of four letter words. I

For others that may have this situation: One approach I use is similar to hand tapping. Gradually work it in and back out with sufficient lubricating fluids. Aluminum threads don't take much to get messed up and age with heat is a disaster.

I was going to check the sensor on ours, I'm afraid now.
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Old Dec 2, 2021 | 03:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by timmy0tool
ah bummer dean! went from bad to worse. don't you still have your old LS (with bad brakelines)? perhaps pull the crossover from that engine?
Yes I do. I think I have to pull it from that one cuz I was looking for a new one yesterday and it's discontinued. Only saw one place that says they have it (In Dubai) but never heard of them so I don't know. https://carmarka.com/en/toyota-joint-water-16355-50030 or how long it would take to come in. I'd rather have new so I have less work and I'd be able to put in new sensors. If I use from the other car I'd leave those sensors in. I wouldn't take another chance, plus, I know they are working.
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Old Dec 2, 2021 | 03:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by RA40
universal language that starts with oh-S followed with strings of four letter words. I

. Gradually work it in and back out with sufficient lubricating fluids. Aluminum threads don't take much to get messed up and age with heat is a disaster.

I was going to check the sensor on ours, I'm afraid now.
Oh, there was alot of four letter words. And a new big dent in my old car sitting next to it. If I could write them here, I would, just to get them out again. It did start to come out with fluid, but I don't know why the crossover cracked other then being corroded and the sensor sits close to the edge. I never did get heat on it cuz all the wires and everything else close to it. This was the sensor for the gauge, The EFI sensor I wouldn't worry about changing that one cuz it sits down lower. I never had a problem with that one on any of my LS400s. Except the one that snapped putting in this car but that was probably a bad sensor and would have came out easy, but no sense pulling it now.
Thanks Mike

Also just want to say that if I removed the crossover and tried to get the sensor out, this would have happened anyway. Luckily nothing fell down into the engine.
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