Car makes a dull roar at high speeds from the front left wheel area. Jacked up the car and the wheel has noticible play.

I found a wheel bearing from AutoZone for less than 50 dollars.

Can I just replace the hub? I really don't want to play around with a press and try to press in new bearings.

Are there any detailed instructions on what to do?

 

I would not trust Autozone for most anything on our cars unless oil or spark plugs.

Use.OEM in this area.

You will need a competent machine shop to extract old bearing and press in new.

Replace seal(s), staked nut along wirh bearing...

Lexus exploded parts diagram to assist you.

https://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=771569&ukey_make=1082&ukey_model=15669&modelYear=1998&ukey_category=21747

Possibly the Lexus dealer has correct fixturing and torque specs to do job correctly.

Of course you are in a better position to have them install new bearing if you purchase parts from them...

 

Is there an easier way? I'd rather not play around with a press. Are you saying it's impossible to just replace the hub?

 

Since you plan on replacing the entire hub then it should be very easy to do. Just pull the wheel to access the bearing/hub assy then remove it. To re-install, tighten the nut until you can't spin the rotor by hand than back off the nut a quarter turn. I usually replaced both sides but that's my preference. Just make sure the hub assy comes w/ a complete inner, outter bearings, races & seal. Btw, I've noticed they carry their own brand (Duralast) & National Wheel Bearing/Hub assys. I usually prefer SKF but both Duralast & National are pretty decent. For a few dollars more, go w/ National since it has a 3-yr warranty. Good luck.

 

Thanks. I looked at the AutoZone link again and I realized they're just selling a bearing, not a hub. I can't find any front hubs for sale anywhere. Where can I get one?

 

It's just a photo so check w/ them.

 

I've just cross-referenced the National p/n w/ another site for you & yes it's just the bearing so you'll have to look around.

 

Listen to only Yodaone. Look at the diagram . It is not easy. A tire shop will screw it up and may bend a part trying to remove the bearing cartridge.
By the time you buy a good Japanese bearing cartridge, seals, shop time etc, you might as well buy an assy and make it easier and cheaper.
I would recommend you buy a steering knuckle assy for each side from a reputable wrecking yard. Ask them to make sure the hub spins smoothly before they ship it. Have a shop ( or you ) install the knuckle assemblies. They are practically bolt on. Then drive it, If both are smooth, you might want to then do a front end alignment .
Oh, and make sure your rotors or tires are not the problem first.

 

Thank you, I will start looking for a steering knuckle assembly.

 

Wait a minute....?!?!?
A quality bearing, Timken or SKF or Koyo, is about $40. A carrier assembly from a salvage yard is large heavy and will not ship cheaply. Then at the end of the day you still end up with a USED bearing !!! Any competent mechanic can press a bearing. No need to over think this.

 

I found a lot of bearing replacement guides for 3rd gen LS400s, but absolutely none for 1st or 2nd gen LS400s.

Is the 3rd gen similar to the 1st/2nd gen?

How difficult would you say it is for an amateur mechanic to replace his own wheel bearing?

 

You can remove the carrier assembly yourself but the bearing will be IMPOSSIBLE to remove without a good sized press.
Remove this and take it to a mechanic.
.

 

The easiest would be to buy an entire knuckle as others have suggested. It unbolts with literally 3 bolts and unbolt the 10mm ABS sensor and wire and you can swap it out in about 20-30 min.

That's what I did for my LF as a time saver until it warms up when I can put my AZ rust free knuckle back in when it gets warmer again with a new bearing. I bought a junkyard knuckle with a good bearing for $50. Since I live in MI, there isn't a dust shield on it anymore, which I'm not really comfortable about but its so damn cold here I don't think it needs any additional brake cooling in the winter time.

 

For anyone that wants to attempt pressing the hub and bearing out. To first press the hub out, I found a way too do it by using a 3 jaw puller, the largest of the Three pack that Harbor Freight sells. There really is no other easy way to do it since the knuckle doesn't have any good supports all the way around to be able to press it out and since you have a dust shield in the way.

To press the bearing outer race out, you'll need a dedicated press this jaw puller will only push the hub out. I had a 20 ton Dake press I used at work to do it and it had a gauge on it which only went as high as 2.5 tons of pressure to get it out and back in again. I used a 2 3/8" hub nut socket to get it out and a socket to press the bearing onto the hub.