My 99 LS400 is running HOT ??? HELP
#1
My 99 LS400 is running HOT ??? HELP
last week my 99 LS400 got hot and my rad-cap whistled (like a tea pot) stopped cooled it down, restarted it up and it rattled, found out the WP front bearing failed/wobbled. replaced my WP.. bled the air out and it ran hot, pegged the red mark.
removed the t/stat, ran it again, pegged the red mark. water bubbled... replaced t/stat, filled it bled air out,, ran normal temp while driving 30-40 miles, pulled it in shop, let idle and gauge went to red mark again after 30 minutes.. cooled it back down, bled air again, ran hot again...
suggest your ideas please, mine dont work??
HELP!!
removed the t/stat, ran it again, pegged the red mark. water bubbled... replaced t/stat, filled it bled air out,, ran normal temp while driving 30-40 miles, pulled it in shop, let idle and gauge went to red mark again after 30 minutes.. cooled it back down, bled air again, ran hot again...
suggest your ideas please, mine dont work??
HELP!!
Last edited by billydpowe; 12-19-17 at 09:57 AM. Reason: TIME
#2
From what you've described & what you've replaced, you must have air in your system but you've already bled/purged multiple times. Where did you refill the coolant & how did you bled/purge the system?
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billydpowe (12-20-17)
#3
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
How old is the radiator? How are the radiator hoses? One of the other cars had a semi flexible radiator hose (Read that as a cheap aftermarket replacement) and so after a good many years it would be come quite flexible when at operating temp. Step on the gas and the pressure would have it collapse some restricting flow. The hoses in the Lex are pretty stiff but in that chance this is not a Toyota part may be worth the check.
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billydpowe (12-20-17)
#4
sounds like air in the system.
how are you bleeding your coolant? I found that holding the revs while the car's nose is up on an incline helps pull out more air bubbles.
I also keep the coolant fill plug open on top while bleeding, having a funnel in there with some coolant as to not introduce more air. don't forget to fully blast your heater when bleeding.
The 10mm fill plug is at the top-center of this pic. It is a 98 LS400.
how are you bleeding your coolant? I found that holding the revs while the car's nose is up on an incline helps pull out more air bubbles.
I also keep the coolant fill plug open on top while bleeding, having a funnel in there with some coolant as to not introduce more air. don't forget to fully blast your heater when bleeding.
The 10mm fill plug is at the top-center of this pic. It is a 98 LS400.
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billydpowe (12-20-17)
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billydpowe (12-20-17)
#7
Pole Position
last week my 99 LS400 got hot and my rad-cap whistled (like a tea pot) stopped cooled it down, restarted it up and it rattled, found out the WP front bearing failed/wobbled. replaced my WP.. bled the air out and it ran hot, pegged the red mark.
removed the t/stat, ran it again, pegged the red mark. water bubbled... replaced t/stat, filled it bled air out,, ran normal temp while driving 30-40 miles, pulled it in shop, let idle and gauge went to red mark again after 30 minutes.. cooled it back down, bled air again, ran hot again...
suggest your ideas please, mine dont work??
HELP!!
removed the t/stat, ran it again, pegged the red mark. water bubbled... replaced t/stat, filled it bled air out,, ran normal temp while driving 30-40 miles, pulled it in shop, let idle and gauge went to red mark again after 30 minutes.. cooled it back down, bled air again, ran hot again...
suggest your ideas please, mine dont work??
HELP!!
Use an ispection mirror to check the front of the fan clutch to be sure the bimetal coiled spring is not coated or clogged with dirt...mine was.
If not replacing radiator (inexpensive), then remove it and spray water through fins in opposite direction of airflow.
The fins are delicate so do not recommend high pressure wash wands.
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billydpowe (12-20-17)
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billydpowe (12-20-17)
#10
Super Moderator
iTrader: (6)
Happy to hear it was a simple R&R part. Curious how many miles yours lasted? Ours was the original at 200K some odd just before one of the tank seals began leaking. The shop manager relayed they are usually good till about 180K. Nice that those original Denso's had good longevity. We'll see how the newer production goes.
#11
Happy to hear it was a simple R&R part. Curious how many miles yours lasted? Ours was the original at 200K some odd just before one of the tank seals began leaking. The shop manager relayed they are usually good till about 180K. Nice that those original Denso's had good longevity. We'll see how the newer production goes.
BUT, I am happy to say it is all taken care of by a bunch of ANGELS that God used to relieve Judy and my burden.... thanks Lord.
Last edited by billydpowe; 12-26-17 at 07:32 PM.
#13
Ouch, that's pricy Billy, but know most of it was labor for replacing the water pump. And thank you for the reminder...with 226K on mine, I'm sure I'm due a new radiator pretty soon. Of course I would wait until it got cold.
Pretty well known in the Miata circles that when the top of the radiator starts turning green from it's original black, it's days are numbered. And that cooks a Miata engine quickly when you lose what little coolant it's got. I see the one in my Tundra turning green already and it only has 117k on it.
Pretty well known in the Miata circles that when the top of the radiator starts turning green from it's original black, it's days are numbered. And that cooks a Miata engine quickly when you lose what little coolant it's got. I see the one in my Tundra turning green already and it only has 117k on it.
#15
Lexus Test Driver
i'm glad everything got sorted, i'd hate for you to have to think about getting rid of it