LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

Help please, major maintenance

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Old 12-22-16, 07:50 PM
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Johnnyy
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Default Help please, major maintenance

Ls 400 1998 V8 , 200k miles
Hello everyone,
I have been reading in this website for more than 4 months, and I really would like to thank you for your posts and for answering questions.


I bought the car 4 months ago and replaced the spark plugs and the pcv valve with grommet and cleaned the throttle body. Also, changed transmission fluid, engine oil, differential fluid.

Please note that the previous owner didn't do any maintenance since he drove the car for over 70k miles within 2.5 years , and the original owners is unknown

There is (white smoke similar to the smoke when car are cold or in a cold weather )from exhaust since I bought the car and I think it is from the power steering valve, which is leaking from the two tubes that connected to the valve. The smoke comes only when I'm at stop , no smoke while driving .

( antifreez coolant never change its level)

last week ( oil leaking from both side of the engine)

I'm going to change ( Timing Belt, water pump, camshat seals ,crank seal ,thermostat,drive belt, idler pulley and tensioner, cover valve gasket and plugs tube, power steering valve, fuel filter, and rear transmission mount.

Is there anything I should buy and change since I'll replace the timing belt ??

I'm not going to do these thing just bought the parts and a mechanic will do the job in January ( the mechanic is in Vancouver and I'm in the island so he can't check the car unless I'm there.
please note that I'm doing these maintainance because. i will be traviling next month and drive more than 4000 km

thank you

Last edited by Johnnyy; 12-23-16 at 06:03 AM. Reason: More info
Old 12-23-16, 02:33 AM
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GH5T
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Welcome to the community keep us up on your progress.
Old 12-23-16, 09:52 AM
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djamps
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I'd skip on the expensive PS valve and plug it with a bolt instead. I didn't have any noticable difference in drivability or steering feel for what it's worth. At 200k I did not have any leaks in crankshaft or camshaft seals, so you might be able to skip those too. Have the motor mounts checked as well - they fail as or more often than trans mounts since they are so soft and the heat/torque generated by the 1UZ. Even though it drove pretty well, mine were both in peices when I did the 200k timing belt.

Last edited by djamps; 12-23-16 at 09:56 AM.
Old 12-23-16, 10:04 AM
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Johnnyy
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Originally Posted by djamps
I'd skip on the expensive PS valve and plug it with a bolt instead. I didn't have any noticable difference in drivability or steering feel for what it's worth. At 200k I did not have any leaks in crankshaft or camshaft seals, so you might be able to skip those too. Have the motor mounts checked as well - they fail as or more often than trans mounts since they are so soft and the heat/torque generated by the 1UZ. Even though it drove pretty well, mine were both in peices when I did the 200k timing belt.

thank you for reply
Actually I've already bought the the camshaft and crankshaft seals.

so when replacing the TB, is it going to be easier to change the engine mounts?
if it is going to be one hour job I would get the parts and request the mechanic to replace the mounts.
Old 12-23-16, 10:50 PM
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sha4000
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Motor mounts and the timing belt job are not the same as far as shop hours but I would do the mounts anyway since I can almost guarantee they will come out in 2 pieces when removed. Also doing the camshaft seals are a separate job from the timing belt. You have to remove the camshafts in the 98+ LS to change the seals so make sure they are leaking before going down that road. Changing the crank seals can be done while doing the timing belt since it will be exposed while your in there.
Old 12-24-16, 05:55 AM
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Losiracer2
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I would do the Cam and Crank seals every two timing belts just for safe measure. My 97 had a crank seal go bad at 253k, coating a (presumably, can't confirm) 50k mile old timing belt, forcing me to fork out money to replace the belt and of course the offending crankshaft seal and cam seals.

Since you've got a 98, and I did mine about a year ago, I'd say just due to age alone, the seal would be compromised and the rubber would no longer seal properly. You can take a chance, but at already 200k, that would mean your crank seal would have to survive to 300k without leaking...do you want to take that gamble for a 20 dollar seal when the consequences would be another timing belt job, like in my case?
Old 12-24-16, 03:09 PM
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sha4000
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The crank seal is easy and a no brainer when doing the timing belt, its the cam seal which is a more intricate job and separate from the timing belt so make sure it is leaking before tackling that beast.
Old 12-24-16, 03:34 PM
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Johnnyy
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Originally Posted by Losiracer2
I would do the Cam and Crank seals every two timing belts just for safe measure. My 97 had a crank seal go bad at 253k, coating a (presumably, can't confirm) 50k mile old timing belt, forcing me to fork out money to replace the belt and of course the offending crankshaft seal and cam seals.

Since you've got a 98, and I did mine about a year ago, I'd say just due to age alone, the seal would be compromised and the rubber would no longer seal properly. You can take a chance, but at already 200k, that would mean your crank seal would have to survive to 300k without leaking...do you want to take that gamble for a 20 dollar seal when the consequences would be another timing belt job, like in my case?
thanks for reply
I have oil leaking infront of engine, I think it is from the crankshaft seal I'm not sure.
the camshaft seals I don't think I'll request the Mechanic to replace them since most people say don't replace them.
Old 12-24-16, 03:36 PM
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Johnnyy
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Originally Posted by sha4000
The crank seal is easy and a no brainer when doing the timing belt, its the cam seal which is a more intricate job and separate from the timing belt so make sure it is leaking before tackling that beast.
yes I learned that thanks for sharing
Old 12-24-16, 09:50 PM
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Losiracer2
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Originally Posted by Johnnyy
thanks for reply
I have oil leaking infront of engine, I think it is from the crankshaft seal I'm not sure.
the camshaft seals I don't think I'll request the Mechanic to replace them since most people say don't replace them.
if its leaking in the front, under the covers, then that's exactly what happened to mine, blown crank seal for sure.

I would do the cam seals if yours is a 95-97 like mine, if it's a 98 then I'm not sure how much extra it is in labor to replace
Old 12-30-16, 06:21 PM
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Johnnyy
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Originally Posted by sha4000
Motor mounts and the timing belt job are not the same as far as shop hours but I would do the mounts anyway since I can almost guarantee they will come out in 2 pieces when removed. Also doing the camshaft seals are a separate job from the timing belt. You have to remove the camshafts in the 98+ LS to change the seals so make sure they are leaking before going down that road. Changing the crank seals can be done while doing the timing belt since it will be exposed while your in there.
Should I rebuild the startar.
I don't have any problem with it, but since the Mechanic is going to remove many parts I thought it maybe better to check the startar.

Any idea?
Old 12-31-16, 08:18 AM
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The starter is on the opposite side of the engine and on the top. There won't be much savings for adding the starter at this time and I'd just wait for it to fail. May last awhile, but no real cost savings for doing it at this time. And depending on where you get your parts,may not be a better product you replace it with.
Old 01-02-17, 11:21 PM
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Johnnyy
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Originally Posted by Legender
The starter is on the opposite side of the engine and on the top. There won't be much savings for adding the starter at this time and I'd just wait for it to fail. May last awhile, but no real cost savings for doing it at this time. And depending on where you get your parts,may not be a better product you replace it with.

thanks for reply
I hope my startar live forever
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