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Viper 4806V REMOTE START HELP PLEASE!

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Old 11-25-16, 08:42 PM
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Unhappy Viper 4806V REMOTE START HELP PLEASE!

Hey guys, I have a 1994 model LS that I've been trying to install this Viper 4806V keyless entry and remote start system on for the past 5 days! I've gotten everything figured out and wired up except for the remote start wires. I've followed another forum on a guy who installed a security system on his 1990 LS and he seemed to have no problems with the remote start. The car will only remote start correctly if the key is in the ignition and turned the to the ON position. It will not start correctly in any other position. If I attempt to start the car with the ignition in the OFF or accessory position the car will only attempt to start and crank three times accepting failure. I even disconnected the accessory, ignition 1, and ignition 2 wires on the remote starter side and the car was still able to start when the key was in the ON position. I did not think this car used a chip sensing ignition that only allows it to only start with the key but I may be wrong! I can't seem to figure it out so I'm asking for help from the forum before I wave the white flag and take it to Best Buy and have them figure it out for an outrageous $200.
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Old 11-25-16, 10:40 PM
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It seems as though the remote start module isn't giving enough time for the electronics to turn on and power up in the car before it attempts to turn the starter. Proper remote starters are supposed to turn the car to the on position as if the key were turned to the on position BEFORE it attempts to start the car. It's just starting the car almost immediately and skipping the power up process.
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Old 11-26-16, 12:03 AM
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http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/
There is a lot of good info on this site for proper wires for various cars, and installing alarms and remote start systems.
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Old 11-26-16, 12:05 AM
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[QUOTE=LS400Club;9690457]It seems as though the remote start module isn't giving enough time for the electronics to turn on and power up in the car before it attempts to turn the starter. Proper remote starters are supposed to turn the car to the on position as if the key were turned to the on position BEFORE it attempts to start the car. It's just starting the car almost immediately and skipping the power up process.[/QUOTE

You'll get more help from 12V mobile forum. I always had good with Cumustar brain and blade combo for various vehicles when remote start/security system.
Also you may get help from Viper tech support. If you have basics in electronics theory it is not difficult task. Sounds like your installation has a mistake made
with some wiring.
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Old 11-26-16, 01:54 PM
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Well I have all the remote start wires connected to the right wires at the ignition harness and the vehicle starts with the remote start but continues to spin the starter indefinitely. If I turn the vehicle to the on position with the key while the remote start is spinning the starter then the starter stops spinning. If I turn the key back to the off position while the vehicle is running then the starter begins to spin again and grinds the starter gear. The remote start module will only overcrank if the key is in the off or acc position for some reason.
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Old 11-26-16, 03:42 PM
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Then I think wiring mistake; not which wire connects to where but there is relays involved. Once engine starts power to starter motor should be cut. 'Anti ground' ground something like that.
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Old 11-26-16, 05:23 PM
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So the remote module is sending a constant starter signal, when running, isn't there some wire on that module that would want a tach signal to tell it that the engine is running?

From what I gather there is a tach signal required by a remote start system, and as important is they are supposed to be programmed to the vehicle they are being installed on. So whats the status on all that?

Last edited by dicer; 11-26-16 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 11-26-16, 06:43 PM
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Tach signal is used to signal engine is running or there is another way of doing it not depending on tach signal. In case of tach signal is used, the signal level should be higher than certain voltage. Otherwise engine won't start or even if it started it'll sputter. Go and register at www.the12volt.com If you raise the question after registering
(to put up a post) friendly experts(many MECPs) there will help you pronto. You are almost there. Good luck.
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Old 11-26-16, 10:20 PM
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Thanks guys! I have the tach wire connected to the black tach wire behind the instrument cluster. I've tested the wire and it does change voltage in sync with the throttle position. I've done the tach signal learning procedure on the module and the blue light on the antenna glowed solid as it should once it's learned the signal.



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Old 11-27-16, 10:45 AM
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And all that and it still doesn't work correctly? Then the system module must be no good.
Or it is not receiving the tach signal or ? And if I was doing the wiring I think I would be finding my tach signal wire at the ecu, that is what I did years ago on another make car when installing a cruise control system.

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Old 11-28-16, 09:32 AM
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My guess is, it hs not only connecting wire correctly, also polarity has to be correct dealing with DC voltages. Either wires are crosed or maybe a relay cutting the power to the starter motor is not working correctly because polarity is reversed. I am sure they use couple 12V relays with the system. I'd pay particular attention to the those relay wirings. Relay contacts are NO(nornally open) or NC(normally closed) If relay is controlling the start motor it should have NO contacts only energizing only when it suppost to run. As soon as tach signal comes up the power to the relay should be cut opening the contact. Another issue is, spinning motor can act like generator which can cause some damage to itself or other electrical parts.
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Old 11-28-16, 01:10 PM
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I've confirmed that the module is receiving a 3-3.5v tach signal to its tach wire once the engine is started. There is no reason that the module should not cut voltage to the starter wire.


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Old 12-08-16, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Htony View Post
My guess is, it hs not only connecting wire correctly, also polarity has to be correct dealing with DC voltages. Either wires are crosed or maybe a relay cutting the power to the starter motor is not working correctly because polarity is reversed. I am sure they use couple 12V relays with the system. I'd pay particular attention to the those relay wirings. Relay contacts are NO(nornally open) or NC(normally closed) If relay is controlling the start motor it should have NO contacts only energizing only when it suppost to run. As soon as tach signal comes up the power to the relay should be cut opening the contact. Another issue is, spinning motor can act like generator which can cause some damage to itself or other electrical parts.
I still haven't resolved the issue. I have noticed that if I unplug the ignition switch the remote start works fine. When I plug the ignition switch back in the remote start continues to work until I use the key in the ignition and switch the car on and off with the key. It will then go back to over cranking. something in the ignition switch is causing the remote start to malfunction.
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Old 12-08-16, 10:08 PM
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How come you are not going to the the12volt.com. Just register and raise your question. Many good techs there.
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Old 01-04-17, 11:16 PM
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Default Final update

(Final UPDATE) I finally figured out the problem with the old 94 LS. the tach signal behind the instrument cluster worked perfectly and no hood pin was needed. All of the wires were connected properly to begin with. The system is set to tach sense for the remote start. Also, no bypass was needed for the security system. The problem was actually in the electrical ignition switch. Some of the contacts inside were touching where they weren't supposed to be which caused the starter to crank indefinitely. I was able to recreate the indefinite cranking by using a flat head screw driver to manipulate the switch in different directions once I removed it from the back of the lock cylinder. I took it apart and cleaned it and now my remote start works as it should!! Here's a picture of the part. I stuck the screw driver into the black piece in the center of the electrical switch and turned it as well as pushed in on it.
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