jaaa

For the last two days I've been replacing my shocks. On the first day I just did the rears, and upon completing them, I had a steady ABS light and a flashing Track Off light. I had pry bars and hammers involved in getting the shocks off and on, so I'm guessing I could have got to a brake sensor. I also had to tear out the rear seats so could have gotten into the sensor wiring(not sure how they route through the car. Any sage advice for me? My code reader doesn't do abs, so I'm not even sure which side I need to look at. Pulled the tires off and didn't notice anything unusual or pinched wires. For anyone about to do their front shocks, I can tell you that removing the two upper control arm bolts will save a lot of time.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

you likely damaged or unplugged the ABS wheel speed sensors, they're the tough black plastic sensors that are fitted directly to the hubs with a wire running up the spindle to the UCA on each corner.

dicer

I have not done rears yet, but in front there is no need for hammers or pry bars.
Upper control arm bolts? you mean the pivots ? I'm sure when I did them, I just pushed the control arm all the way up and out of the way.

jaaa

I figured that. I just don't have a code reader that works on ABS and can't even determine which side I did it to. I saw no evidence of any damage to a sensor. I'd hate to buy both sides sensors and shotgun it. Perhaps if I had a scope I could look at some signals.

jaaa

Exactly, where it pivots up top(I just assumed that was a control arm). Without removing those two bolts I couldn't get the bottom of the shock to fit into the channel. Of course, I did a quick search on-line and couldn't find a tutorial, so I did this blindly as I had never changed shocks/struts before. I don't doubt there was an easier way, but this is what I came up with and it worked.

dicer

You push down on the lower control arm and not have that link connected when doing so, nor the tie rod connected.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

This is what I used.https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...r-install.html

jaaa

Well, I did this blind, and got to the point where I took the nut off and it looked like I would need some kind of pickle fork to separate the joint. Took a long time to come up with the idea of just pulling off the bolts holding the UCA. Once I did the drivers side, the other only took 40 minutes and went very smoothly. Only problem with taking those two bolts out is you have raise/lower the strut assembly some to gain clearance because the bolts will run into the springs. If I had to do it again, I'd still do it my way because you can leave the ball joints alone.

dicer

If you plan on reusing the tie rod end never pickle fork it. There are lots of cheap pitman arm puller LOOKING tools for removing tie rod ends. Even backing off the nut and using an air hammer will do in most cases, but you need a flat hammer anvil to do it.

jaaa

Not having an obd reader that works with ABS, I backed probed the two abs sensors in the back of the trunk where the abs wires come through and I got .6 volts on the passenger rear side on the black and white wires and .03 volts on the driver side rear abs wires. I rotated the wheels with the back of the car on jack stands but didn't get any observable difference on the meter while the wheels were turning. Any techs out there know what the static voltage should be on those two wires?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

what year is your Daihatsu Charade?

jaaa

1996 ls400 with traction control

jaaa

One last detail. I ohmed out the the two rear speed sensors by disconnecting the connector in the trunk. The driver side sensor rear ABS sensor read 1.06 on the 20,000 ohm scale(on my oh so expensive HF multi-meter). The passenger side rear ABS sensor read infinity. I'm assuming that means the passenger side sensor is bad.

Just got done tearing apart the front wheel fender housing to get to the ABS plug, and managed to get a reading of 1.03 on the 20,000 scale. So looks like the rear passenger side is bad. Still don't see where I abused it, but it is bad. Going to order an on-line used one and see if that fixes it.

dicer

I think Rock auto has them, and yes infinity would mean its open and no good. If you had a scope you should be able to spin the tone ring (wheel-tire) and get a signal.

jaaa

I looked around online and saw they were in the $130/$140 range new, so I went with an Ebay used one for $34. My wife is really starting to get agitated on how much I've spent on this "special". Not sure how often ABS sensors go bad, but thought I would take a chance on a used one. Should come in in a week.