dicer

I know search is a joke, so I don't like to tell people to do that. The way you power the fuel pump is jumper with a paper clip the data port on the engine using Fp and B+ holes if I remember right. Of course you jumper then turn on the ignition to ignition not over to crank position. Anyway that is so you can check for fuel pressure with engine off. Then after that remove a spark plug from each side put it in the wire boot and lay them on the metal valve cover so the metal spark plug case touches the metal, then have some one crank it and look for spark. Do it more evening time so you can see the spark.
A not so nice way but quick fuel pressure check if you have no gauge is to try the cranking deal then go loosen the high pressure fuel line at a connection point, using some rags to catch the fuel and not spray in your face, if it sprays out the pump is very likely doing its thing. Don't have any fumes around when checking for spark.
And have you done the jumper deal to check for stored codes in the ecu, problem is a dead or disconnected battery erases them.

CGRMls400

Well heres the current up to date situation, I bought a new battery Installed it and right away it cranked more faster and stronger and I tried priming it again to see it the new battery helped but nothing same situation so I said the hell with it spark plugs need reppacing anyways so I figured id take them out and check condition and test them with multi meter but right away as soon as I took the first one out it was wet with fuel and sure enough the rest were wet also my pistons have carbon build up which ill have to clean out because the plugs had some of it on them too so I headed to advance auto and bought some new ngks already gapped installed them I didnt replace the cables though but when I tried crankin it again it cranked even more stronger and this time it almost started again and it did the whole rumbling in the exhaust pipes longer than last time and now the rumble is there everytime I crank it but it still wont come on well I take that back I sprayed some started fluid behind the air filter in the metal like section that has in guessing a sensor or something plugged up to it and that seemed to help with the "rumble" but still nothing so I guess the old plugs getting wet after replacing the pump means not only is the new pump working but there is also fuel pressure and the added aggressiveness and power behind the crankin now means plugs are working? So far ive replaced the coolant temp sensor, spark plugs, fuel pump and battery I feel like every time ive replaced something its condition inproves if that makes sense in anyway like its even closes to finally starting up like literally right there at starting up im getting frustrated now..how would I go about cleaning the pistons "¿heads?" If thats what theyre called what im talking about is what you can see when you remove the spark plugs and look down the cylinders im sure theyre the pistons because they go up and down every time I crank it I know because I would go and crank it and then remove spark plugs to see if they moved and sure enough they would all be at different positions than before and I could see build up on them im pretty sure thats not good but is that anything that would affect my situation? And no I hadnt done the jumper thing ur talking about im guessing theyre wont be any since the battery has been replaced oh and I think the previous owner did something so that the check engine light wont come in becaude im pretty sure its supposed to be on during this no start condition right??

dicer

Funny stuff, so you had the spark plugs out and never checked for spark ! Right? So I spend this time trying to help and you ignore everything I said. I'm done. Good luck.

CGRMls400

Dicer, That was before you said anything about checking for spark and I didnt know how to check for spark anyways until after the fact when you said when and how to do it when I came back to update post and saw your msg thanks anyways Dicer I really do appreciate your help at least now I know what to do next wish I would have seen you msg before I did that once again thanks anyways for your help I didnt mean to offend you

CELSI0R

Good to see you're making progress, CGRMls400.

I hope you do return, dicer. Your help has been invaluable in this thread. The good thing is, now we know a bit more about what's been going on with the car, and why it wouldn't start.

I have no experience with cleaning piston heads, but I have saved this thread from a BMW forum for a later date, should I ever look into the job. However, I wouldn't recommend doing it, as it involves removing the head gaskets and putting in a lot of care to prevent damage to the engine, such as small chunks going behind the piston and cylinder wall.

At this point, I don't really know how to help too much more - I apologize for this.

CGRMls400

No worries CELSIOR thanks for replying anyways and yeah I dont Im going to do it that wayi dont trust myself yet I remember I saw a video some time ago where a guy sprayed something down the cyclinder and let the car run and something about letting all the white smoke come out the exhaust and repeat if necessary ut aving to rev the car at somewhat high rpms or something and vut either way id have to get tue car running first in order to do that. But yes Dicer's help has been very valuable it sucks because I shoulf have check the forum first to see what he had said before I did anything so I would have seen what he said I just didnt think hed reply so soon I normally just come back to update the status of where im at I didnt mean to tick him off either way im not holding it against him its just a case of bad timing so what im going to do next is what he said and check for spark hopefully I wint ahve to replace the plugs because my budget is getting low again. But quick question when the power button is engaged (the button down there with the height and shock buttons) does that engage all 8 cylinders anf when bot engaged just 6 or do all 8 run all the time? How does it give it extra power because I definitely noticed it in my gas and acceleration when the car ran lol

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Were there any readable error codes?

CELSI0R

I believe you are referring to the transmission switch by the shifter, next to the air suspension switches (available on UCF11 models), and next to the Shift Lock Override button.

To elaborate, when the transmission is set to Power mode, all this does is increase performance by telling the ECU to shift gears higher RPMs. This does not affect the cylinders.

Engine cylinder deactivation is a feature that this car does not have, so all 8 cylinders are always engaged when the car is running. It would be nice if we had cylinder deactivation, to save gas, but this is not the case.

dicer

When and if you check for spark, no spark condition will not be a spark plug problem, didn't you replace them? You could also use a Philips screw driver in the spark plug boot and make sure you hold it close to the metal to watch the spark, if you don't trust the spark plugs. And besides if the engine suddenly stopped and was running just fine before, all the high tension system meaning caps, rotors, wires and spark plugs are not a suspect. No spark will be caused by mostly the crank and cam sensors or mechanical meaning timing belt or sprockets. Since there are 2 igniters its very unlikely that both are bad and same with coils. And if your going to have all the spark plugs out then is the time to do a compression test.
Carbon on pistons is nothing to worry about, unless its smoking real bad out the exhaust.

CGRMls400

Dicer, I know its bee a while since I last updated ive just recently switched jobs and have been busy but I did manage to do the spark test and even though I changed the plugs and boots im getting a weak spark and I replaced them one at a time like ive done in my other cars with the longest first the question I have on that is the old wires that were on it had the tips if the boots that go on the distributor caps rounded out idk if that makes sense but the new ones that I put on didnt come like that was I supposed to make the tips rounded too? I also did a compression test and it was reading 180 I also changed the crank shaft position sensor since it had coolant from when the car overheated it had coolant collected in the connector piece but eve with this its still doing the same thing, one thing I noticed was that the timing belt has a lot of wear on the top part of the belt like its rubbing against something causing abnormal wear the teath are fine and I had my wife help me crank it so I could see the belt move and all the teeth were on the groves none were jumped buuut one of the pulleys or belts had been making a sqeaking noise so maybe a bad pulley sticking rubbing against the belt causing the wear? I bought a new belt since this one is in bad shape and could break any minute

Banshee365

When you do a compressor test you have to check all 8 holes. It sounded like you just checked one. Also, be wary of what brand wire and spark plug you go with or you could end up with more problems. I prefer to use OEM parts either from Toyota or Denso for ignition parts.

cobalt91

The over heating and the timing belt damage go hand in hand. Dicer was right with his first guess. Thing is, what caused the damage to the timing belt? More than likely the water pump is starting to go bad.

This means a complete timing service. Belt, water pump, pulleys and tensioner. The good thing is, you have almost competed a tune up save for caps and rotors.
Keep at it. You will have it fixed soon.