LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

help!!! not ur typical overheating problem

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Old 06-19-16, 06:27 AM
  #16  
CGRMls400
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Originally Posted by CELSI0R
Regarding the electric fans, I would not dismiss them as an issue yet. Once you get the car running again, to make sure they are working, open the hood and have your wife start your car. When it starts up, you should see the electric fans engage, then shut off, as in this video (45 seconds in):

1990 Lexus Ls400 old start after 3 years - YouTube

Of course, your car shouldn't sounds like the one in that video. It's just an example to show you what you should see with the front electric fans.

To provide some background, the fan behind your radiator is your clutch fan, run by the engine. That fan does not rely on electronic relays or fuses in order to run, and relies on the serpentine belt.

If your electric fans are not running, I would check the electric fan relay, located under your driver's side headlight. You will need to remove the headlight to get to the relay box.

Attached are some images to elaborate what I am referring to. One is a diagram of the cooling system, another is an image of the relay box behind the bumper (with the headlight removed), and the other is an image of the relay box. You should check the RDI Fan relays (Radiator).
Thanks! I was looking for that
Relay box since the other fuses and relays were fine. Do you know where to locate the starter/ignition switch is located? Or the temp sensor
Old 06-19-16, 08:56 AM
  #17  
CELSI0R
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Originally Posted by CGRMls400
Thanks! I was looking for that
Relay box since the other fuses and relays were fine. Do you know where to locate the starter/ignition switch is located? Or the temp sensor
The starter motor is located under the intake manifold of the car... It is not a fun job. If your car cranks, but does not start, I highly doubt this would be an issue. I have attached an image of all the parts that need to be removed to get to it..

On the other hand, the coolant temperature sensor will look like a green connector, located between the front of your manifold and your right-hand cam cover. You can see two of them in a photo from this thread.

As Crybicki writes in that thread, "The large one is the coolant temperature sensor, the smaller one is the gauge sender (sends the temp to your instrument panel.)"
Attached Thumbnails help!!! not ur typical overheating problem-90lexls400.gif   help!!! not ur typical overheating problem-large.gif  
Old 06-19-16, 12:02 PM
  #18  
dicer
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Starter / ignition switch, yes its back in the dash sorta your key fits in it you know when you turn it to try to start it

number 84450 size up the image.
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...rimLevel=19107
Old 06-19-16, 10:41 PM
  #19  
CELSI0R
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If you want to have a look at the ignition switch, you will need to remove the trim piece in front of it. It is the first step ONLY in this tutorial from LexLS.com. I recommend putting electrical tape on your flathead screwdriver before working on any trim pieces, hubcaps, etc, in order to prevent damage.

The starter (motor) on the other hand is a whole different part.. See my previous post for details about that.
Old 06-20-16, 12:12 PM
  #20  
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Default Quick update

Ive checked the thermostat and its fine and the radiator cap is also in great shape the water pump aswell...is my car possessed??# :.(
Old 06-20-16, 05:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by CELSI0R
If you want to have a look at the ignition switch, you will need to remove the trim piece in front of it. It is the first step ONLY in this tutorial from LexLS.com. I recommend putting electrical tape on your flathead screwdriver before working on any trim pieces, hubcaps, etc, in order to prevent damage.

The starter (motor) on the other hand is a whole different part.. See my previous post for details about that.
I can usually just use the fingers to get that off. And sometimes what works good are the plastic pry bars.
Old 06-20-16, 05:16 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by CGRMls400
Ive checked the thermostat and its fine and the radiator cap is also in great shape the water pump aswell...is my car possessed??# :.(
No, it's not possessed. It's just something else that hasn't been checked.

Originally Posted by dicer
I can usually just use the fingers to get that off. And sometimes what works good are the plastic pry bars.
That's a good tip - I like the plastic pry bars much more for trim pieces.
Old 06-20-16, 07:53 PM
  #23  
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Sorry to hear bout your troubles CG. The help here is excellent; really under rated. I appreciate all they have done for me over the years.

My LS was overheating too and just did the thermostat, gasket, and water temp sensor.. We'll see how things are tomorrow but after 10 min the temperature needle was hovering around midway like it's supposed to. Yesterday it was too cool then way too hot.
Old 06-23-16, 11:15 AM
  #24  
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So the thermostat and water temp sensor did the trick. 1 hr hwy drive with AC on and in-town with AC before and After and temp never got above middle mark on gauge. Perfect.
Old 06-23-16, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by brianmch
So the thermostat and water temp sensor did the trick. 1 hr hwy drive with AC on and in-town with AC before and After and temp never got above middle mark on gauge. Perfect.
Very nice. Congrats.

Any luck, CGRMls400? Maybe this will also help you.
Old 06-25-16, 01:59 AM
  #26  
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Default Recent update

So so recently I replaced the coolant temperature sensor and I tested the water temp sender and still nothing...I noticed that If I pump the gas pedal while trying to start it itl making the starting noise a little faster like its going to start and then ive heard it make a small pop noise twice idk what to do next yall

Last edited by CGRMls400; 07-04-16 at 02:35 PM. Reason: Update
Old 07-11-16, 06:18 AM
  #27  
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Just bumping this thread to make an update myself:

I was wrong, regarding the electric fans operation, as I did some troubleshooting on my car recently. The fans do not always engage when the car is started up. They do sometimes, but it depends on how long the car was running, etc. However, they should engage somewhere between when the engine temperature is 3/4 to max on the gauge (max being overheating).

Unfortunately, I don't know how to help with your current issue, CGRMls400.
Old 07-20-16, 05:41 PM
  #28  
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Default ***update***

Whats going on guys, dont think ive given up or forgot about you guys I just havent had a chance to work on the ls400. So heres where im at now. The fuel pump was bad I did the acc test and I failed everytime so I ordered a new pump from 1aauto.com and it finally got here I managed to put it in today just now actually and heres where it gets strange..but before I get to that let me tell you a little bit about something that I noticed which lead me to the pump before when I would try to crank it, it would just crank and crank and never turn over and every once in a crank I would hear like a hiccup or burp coming from the exhaust like it was just getting fumes and thats all the signs of life I would get from it besides the cranking SO..NOW I just replaced the pump and I charged the battery and then when I turned it to ACC mode to see if the pump switched on I didnt hear it so I cranked it to see what would happen and it did the same thing just cranked so I turned the key back to the off position and when I did I heard the pump do its thing which I find kinda wierd that it would do its thing when I turn the key back to the off position and not when I turn it to the acc position..any how I kept "priming" it like that cranking it and then switching the key back to off so I could hear the pump kick in and after about 4 or 5 "primes" I tried cranking it again and holding it and it started!! Just for a millisecond or two and then it kinda sputtered out I tried to give it gas but it died before I could abd thats where im at now. I know the pump was bad because I couldnt hear it come on before and now I do but im thinking its coming on at the wrong time ( hence after I switch the key back to off and not when I turn the key to acc)
And atleast I made that little progress where I just barely turned on enough to almlst get a full flow of exhaust but then like choked out or something so what the hell yall whats going on???




Originally Posted by CELSI0R
Just

bumping this thread to make an update myself:

I was wrong, regarding the electric fans operation, as I did some troubleshooting on my car recently. The fans do not always engage when the car is started up. They do sometimes, but it depends on how long the car was running, etc. However, they should engage somewhere between when the engine temperature is 3/4 to max on the gauge (max being overheating).

Unfortunately, I don't know how to help with your current issue, CGRMls400.
Old 07-20-16, 08:46 PM
  #29  
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To start with you can't say it is "Cranking and not turning over" that makes zero sense. Cranking is turning it over. If its not turning over the starter is not engaging and just the starter is motoring.

And what is with the ACC mode? What the ______ is that? If you mean you turned the ignition switch to ACC and didn't hear the fuel pump, that is normal, it does not run in ACC. And like you said when going to crank or start it the fuel pump will run for a few seconds or so only. That is normal.
Your problem is going to be either an ecu problem, or a crank or cam sensor. Or timing issue belt jumped or ?.
For the fuel pump to keep running it has to have an rpm signal. Or you can by pass all that at the diagnostics connector, it has nothing to do with an ACC MODE. And you wasted time and money on a fuel pump. Well its nice to have a new pump I guess since it is an old car.

Last edited by dicer; 07-20-16 at 08:49 PM.
Old 07-21-16, 12:55 PM
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Damn dicer why so serious?
I think you got what I was trying to say just the same as if I would have said it your way. So 1: Yes the starter works it turns over and itl keep turning over for however long I hold the key (which I only do for a few seconds by the way since I know I can mess up the starter and yada yada) it just wont start.
2: the fuel pump was bad because I never heard it come on before either when I turned it to "ACC" or when it would turn over and now that I replaced it with a new one I CAN hear it turn on so im almost 100% sure the old fuel pump was bad since It wouldnt turn on and make its noise for me to hear it and now with this new one installed I can hear it with out a doubt.
3: since I installed the new pump yesterday I tried getting it to start and I remember reading some where that when u replace a pump you have to prime it and when I did for a couple times I then held the key in the "start position" and it did something it had not done while old pump was in..it actually turned on for just a second and I could hear the straight piped exhaust make a rumble and then I stalled out im guessing thats progress since it hadnt done that ever since this while dilemma started it would just crank and thats it every once in a while I would hear a single burp like pop (if that makes any sense) in the exhaust pipes like it was just catching fumes or something but now it actually did more than that. I have a weak *** battery and after trying to start it a couple times it loses power quickly to the point where it wont crank and the lights go out and every other symptom of a dead battery happens windows wont work or stereo or keyless entry and all that good shhi..stuff so ill have to connect it to another car and try to jump it off again so im headed to advance auto to buy a battery since they told me the cells are bad in this one anyways thats where im at now as for what you mentioned how would I go about diagnosing those to check them out??

=dicer;9559520]To start with you can't say it is "Cranking and not turning over" that makes zero sense. Cranking is turning it over. If its not turning over the starter is not engaging and just the starter is motoring.

And what is with the ACC mode? What the ______ is that? If you mean you turned the ignition switch to ACC and didn't hear the fuel pump, that is normal, it does not run in ACC. And like you said when going to crank or start it the fuel pump will run for a few seconds or so only. That is normal.
Your problem is going to be either an ecu problem, or a crank or cam sensor. Or timing issue belt jumped or ?.
For the fuel pump to keep running it has to have an rpm signal. Or you can by pass all that at the diagnostics connector, it has nothing to do with an ACC MODE. And you wasted time and money on a fuel pump. Well its nice to have a new pump I guess since it is an old car.[/QUOTE]


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