1991 LS400, Saying Hello!
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Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: NJ
Unfortunately no. It was just kind of lighter than the lower parts. This car got hit in the passenger side doors when it was 2 months old so the repair and respray is 23 years old. It was repaired at the Lexus dealership in Orlando Florida where it was serviced all its life up until about 8 years ago. I've detailed a few cars in my time and whenever I buy one the first thing I do is wash it with dawn soap. That strips off all the waxes and gets the car squeaky clean. Then I do the clay bar, and this car although looked great when we go it was rough to the touch. The clay bar removed so much off the clear. I had been using 3M perfect-it 2 compound for years until a friend gave me a detail set that had the ultimate compound, polish and the carnuba wax. I was amazed how well it worked. But that with my porter cable 7424 high speed orbital did the trick that a regular rotary buffer used to do for me. I gave that thing away. Hopefully you don't have hazing and the thick cloudy stuff that is the clear dying. I've seen people wet sand with some 1500 & 2000 grit and then polish it out but when it gets to that point the clear is still gone. If the clear is thinning you can save it with a good compound polish and wax though.
I bought this truck a couple years ago and the haze you see is not dust. It was a film from sitting outside. You'll see that it came out great using the steps I mentioned above. This truck was painted in 1979 and it is a 1979. That is single stage paint.
I bought this truck a couple years ago and the haze you see is not dust. It was a film from sitting outside. You'll see that it came out great using the steps I mentioned above. This truck was painted in 1979 and it is a 1979. That is single stage paint.
I think my paint may still have a chance, because the surface still feels smooth; however, it does seem to be slightly cloudy... Although, I can't really tell. It's nowhere near as bad as some cloudy clearcoats that I've seen in photos.
I'll probably try out the procedure you described, but I'll gauge what I want to do next after the clay bar step.
Last edited by CELSI0R; Jun 22, 2016 at 08:05 PM.
Pole Position
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 255
Likes: 1
From: Georgia
Those spots do look like the clear is starting to lift. The clay bar will remove all contaminates and then after that you'll have to at minimum get a coat of wax on it. Looking at the trunk lid though you really need a compound, polish and wax cause it does look pretty good underneath that haze. It's not fun work but to be able to step back and look at it when your done is the reward.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 412
From: NJ
Those spots do look like the clear is starting to lift. The clay bar will remove all contaminates and then after that you'll have to at minimum get a coat of wax on it. Looking at the trunk lid though you really need a compound, polish and wax cause it does look pretty good underneath that haze. It's not fun work but to be able to step back and look at it when your done is the reward.
I was confused for a moment, as I was reading your reply. I realized I wasn't clear, as the photo I attached is showing the front left fender, next to the hood (right after washing the car 2 weeks ago).
Sorry, I should have specified.Thanks once again, for all of your help.
Last edited by CELSI0R; Jan 1, 2016 at 06:05 PM. Reason: Saying thanks
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 613
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From: California
Out of curiosity, are there any paint restoration threads, not necessarily in the LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) sub-forum, that anyone would recommend?
As I mentioned in my initial post, I have a very slight paint fade on the front left fender, from the previous owner. I'm curious to figure out if there is a specific polish or paint restorer that has had good results.
As I mentioned in my initial post, I have a very slight paint fade on the front left fender, from the previous owner. I'm curious to figure out if there is a specific polish or paint restorer that has had good results.
Stay away from the polishing pads at HF, though. They are garbage. I use Meguiars 105 to cut (orange pad)and 205 to polish (blue pad), then finish it off with Meguiars synthetic sealant 2.0 (black pad). Clay bar the car first. The paint looks like glass. It might seem like a substantial investment, but it pays off. You'll use it again and again.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 412
From: NJ
Get yourself a variable speed polisher like a Porter Cable 7424xp or this one at HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/power-t...her-69924.html
Stay away from the polishing pads at HF, though. They are garbage. I use Meguiars 105 to cut (orange pad)and 205 to polish (blue pad), then finish it off with Meguiars synthetic sealant 2.0 (black pad). Clay bar the car first. The paint looks like glass. It might seem like a substantial investment, but it pays off. You'll use it again and again.
Stay away from the polishing pads at HF, though. They are garbage. I use Meguiars 105 to cut (orange pad)and 205 to polish (blue pad), then finish it off with Meguiars synthetic sealant 2.0 (black pad). Clay bar the car first. The paint looks like glass. It might seem like a substantial investment, but it pays off. You'll use it again and again.
It's a shame that the HF pads are no good, but I very much appreciate knowing that ahead of time!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 412
From: NJ
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,788
Likes: 412
From: NJ
It is very, very much appreciated! I'm working on my list of items to order.
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chippern73
LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000)
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