UNCJD

Following the lexls.com front strut replacement tutorial, I was able to get the original Jell-O piece out of the car, get the cartridge out, and get everything screwed back together without killing myself. At that point, I thought the hard part was over; because reinstallation is the reverse of removal, right?

My problem is that the new assembly doesn't want to go back in. The lower control arm hangs at a downward angle, and there's the bracket where the bottom of the strut bolts on. If you're sitting in the passenger seat and can magically see through to this assembly, you would see the bottom of the strut stuck on the right side of that bracket. There's a big ol' nut in the way that the bottom of the strut has to clear to get to the other side and the hole where I can put the bolt back in. This same nut created a problem getting the strut out, but I was able to apply leverage with a crowbar and floor jack to compress the assembly and get it over the nut. Unfortunately, the geometry is such that I can't use the same angles to push it back where it needs to be. Before I ran out of time this morning, I resorted to reinstalling the spring compressors and trying to shorten the assembly that way. So far, it's not working.

I'm sure I'm missing something obvious; that's my stock in trade when it comes to cars. Does anybody here know the easy trick for getting this assembly back in the car after it's out? Everything I've found online just says "reinstallation is the reverse of removal." I've been at for over 2 hours now, though, and the thing doesn't want to be reinstalled. Any suggestions?

UNCJD

To help clarify what I'm talking about, I have a 1995 LS400 without air suspension.

djamps

Did you try turning the wheel all the way one way or the other? I had to turn the wheel to get them out. I didn't have issues going in or out aside from being dumb and mis-aligning the hat on one of them.

UNCJD

Djamps...thanks! I'll be out there tomorrow morning to give that a try!

dicer

Take off the link from the stabilizer bar and pry down the control arm with a 2x2 or something similar, don't use metal it scratches and gouges, any of that can mean either rust or a place for a crack to form you don't want either. 6mm allan wrench holds the shank for the ball on the link I think same size on a 95.

UNCJD

Thanks, Dicer. That darn thing beat me again this morning. Unfortunately, I've already been at it with my pry bar. I went out and squirted the link nut with Liquid Wrench. Hopefully it'll play ball with me in the morning.
I miss driving this thing.

dicer

If your doing the spring reassembly over the strut, you have to line things up real good, I'm making a special tool to do that, if they aren't lined real close it will be real hard to fit the lower bolt etc. these are not like the McPherson strut where the top mount turns.

UNCJD

Let us know when you've got that tool available. I've had to reapply the compressors twice to get it lined up. Wite-out is essential.

Before anybody comments on how intellectually deficient I am when I share this next bit, listen: I know, okay? There's a reason some folks are pro mechanics and others aren't.
So here you go: after 5plus hours of trying everything, it hit me that I ONLY JACKED UP AND SUPPORTED ONE SIDE OF THE CAR!!! When I jacked the other side, bam, it went right in.
Funny, huh?

UNCJD

Let us know when you've got that tool available. I've had to reapply the compressors twice to get it lined up. Wite-out is essential.

Before anybody comments on how intellectually deficient I am when I share this next bit, listen: I know, okay? There's a reason some folks are pro mechanics and others aren't.
So here you go: after 5plus hours of trying everything, it hit me that I ONLY JACKED UP AND SUPPORTED ONE SIDE OF THE CAR!!! When I jacked the other side, bam, it went right in.
Funny, huh?

djamps

<edit> OK so basically your suspension wasn't fully extended b/c the stabilizer was holding it up due to the other side being loaded?

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

yep, you need to relieve the entire front suspension from tension/load by lifting both sides off the ground. the sway bar will inhibit movement of the arm if only one side is up as stated.

this is why removing the sway bar endlinks relieves the tension then you can reinstall the strut. you should be able to install the struts without removing the endlinks if you lift both wheels off the ground.

RA40

iTrader: (6)

Part of the learning process.

Nishy

+1 I changed both of my front struts no problem after I disconnected the sway bar links and only jacked up one side. I didnt even try with them connected haha

dicer

With both wheels off the ground I still need the link off for clearance.
The tool is a long enough square or rectangular steel tube with a proper nut welded on one surface at the end, and then a piece of small angle iron and a c clamp.
The purpose of the tool is to align 2 of the studs with the bottom bolt hole.

djamps

I lifted the whole front and had no issues BUT it's a 98 I dunno if it's different than yours.