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LS400 98 vvti engine swap to 95

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Old 09-06-15, 09:48 AM
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MASTERkame
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Default LS400 98 vvti engine swap to 95

Hello i'm new here, ive got 95 year ls with direct inj lpg system for 4 years but decided that i need some more power and 5 speed gearbox so ive bought right hand drive vvti 98 with low milage and want to swap engine. In my country u cant drive with right side steering wheel and u cant convert the console. So i want to ask are the engine transmision mounts identical? Ill put all wiring from newer one also. Got whole donor car to swap everything between.
Old 09-07-15, 09:26 PM
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dicer
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Keep us posted on how this all works out. Take pictures.
Old 09-07-15, 11:30 PM
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Sure! now few fast questions
What OIL i should use ?
98 VVTI engine and how much i must buy:
98 Gearbox what and how much ? and what should i look for ? filters or what else should i change while its out of the car:
98 rear differential what oil and how much ?

gonna do full timing belt/water pump/tensioner/ hidroulic tensioner / idler bearing set. What i forgot ? spark plugs are ok and coz it wasnt missfiring while i was trying her out. but after LPG conversion i guess they might need change aswell.

btw what do u think about http://www.vetoil.eu/en/bardahl/bard...ne-inside.html in my country and EUROPE its well known stuff how about America ?

Last edited by MASTERkame; 09-07-15 at 11:45 PM.
Old 09-08-15, 01:27 AM
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In the transmission use only the proper Toyota fluid, that is if you don't want problems.
You really need service information and you will get it here.
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo....toyota.com%2F
You can access all the manuals here, they will answer all your questions.

Other things you will need gasket sealer, and likely the pulley assembly's and or bearings for serpentine belt maybe the fan bearing or carrier assembly if that engine has one. Cam and crankshaft seals.
Oil to use? Engine oil theres lots of choices, use what is specified for that engine viscosity wise because that vvt is fussy about that sort of thing. And since that engine will be out and sitting bare and easy to access stuff, do the starter, and any plugs at the rear of the engine and rear crank seal too. Reseal the oil pan and valve covers, just look for things that may leak or give a problem in the future. Exhaust gaskets egr stuff, also hoses.
That is if your trying to make this a good long lasting fix. Just remember its very hard to impossible to access and deal with some stuff while the engine is in the car.
Old 09-08-15, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dicer
In the transmission use only the proper Toyota fluid, that is if you don't want problems.
You really need service information and you will get it here.
https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo....toyota.com%2F
You can access all the manuals here, they will answer all your questions.

Other things you will need gasket sealer, and likely the pulley assembly's and or bearings for serpentine belt maybe the fan bearing or carrier assembly if that engine has one. Cam and crankshaft seals.
Oil to use? Engine oil theres lots of choices, use what is specified for that engine viscosity wise because that vvt is fussy about that sort of thing. And since that engine will be out and sitting bare and easy to access stuff, do the starter, and any plugs at the rear of the engine and rear crank seal too. Reseal the oil pan and valve covers, just look for things that may leak or give a problem in the future. Exhaust gaskets egr stuff, also hoses.
That is if your trying to make this a good long lasting fix. Just remember its very hard to impossible to access and deal with some stuff while the engine is in the car.
what problems does starter have ? i know i should change thermostat while all fluids are. Serpentine belt aint problem had done that on my 95 and at 98 engine all bearings including bearing of thermo fan are ok yet, not mind changing it after i see or hear something there. Only thing that worries me now are valve covers. And are there any potentional reason to reseal oil pan ?
Old 09-08-15, 01:43 PM
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Do a search for starter problems. And any resealing...............its just what you do when you can so easily access everything, because when its in and leaks or the starter goes out, you then kick yourself really hard. Do what you wish, I would do what I suggested.
Old 09-08-15, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dicer
Do a search for starter problems. And any resealing...............its just what you do when you can so easily access everything, because when its in and leaks or the starter goes out, you then kick yourself really hard. Do what you wish, I would do what I suggested.
Wouldn't you still need to take the intakes out? I guess the back bolts would be much easier to get to and the coolant bridge could stay in place.
Old 09-08-15, 04:29 PM
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sha4000
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You only have to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter. Not that hard a job with the engine in the car but since you have access to ALL the hard to reach things right now I would follow dicers advice.
Old 09-08-15, 11:01 PM
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well https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...r-rebuild.html talks about the rebuild and this cars starter works pretty good wondering is it worth to take whole intake manifold just to check the starter but after ill take engine out of the 98 ill see. Probably will take it after all coz when there will be LPG system job will be 10X times harder. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LEXUS-LS40...item3a801e82ef this is what i should get for my mechanic guy to work with ? thats gonna be long build...
Old 09-08-15, 11:14 PM
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and btw this is where the engine and trans will go in



Old 09-09-15, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sha4000
You only have to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter. Not that hard a job with the engine in the car but since you have access to ALL the hard to reach things right now I would follow dicers advice.
Maybe they made is easier on the 98 models. It is very difficult to get to the mounting bolts on the Gen1's. Well that is if you don't lower the trans down or remove the engine.

It would be a waste of time to just CHECK THE STARTER. You would A Replace it with a new one or reman. B Over haul it and replace the solenoid or contacts, brushes, bushings etc. If you don't its going to be real funny if the starter goes out the 1st week.

Last edited by dicer; 09-09-15 at 01:32 AM.
Old 09-09-15, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by dicer
Maybe they made is easier on the 98 models. It is very difficult to get to the mounting bolts on the Gen1's. Well that is if you don't lower the trans down or remove the engine.

It would be a waste of time to just CHECK THE STARTER. You would A Replace it with a new one or reman. B Over haul it and replace the solenoid or contacts, brushes, bushings etc. If you don't its going to be real funny if the starter goes out the 1st week.
ok i got the point, gonna need to repair power stearing pump aswell its leakin on alternator already, or gona swap with mine from 95 but still gonna need repair kit just to be sure.
Old 09-09-15, 12:44 PM
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the engine itself will mount just fine, but the wiring from RHD to LHD will be the difficult part! it is one thing to go from non-VVTi to VVTi and now you are adding that fact that it's coming off of a RHD car.
a VVTi car has much more wiring for the new 5speed trans as well as the VVTi among other small things. even the gauge cluster is different!
i do wish you well on your plans to tackle this, just be prepared for the wiring differences!
Old 09-09-15, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dicer
Maybe they made is easier on the 98 models. It is very difficult to get to the mounting bolts on the Gen1's. Well that is if you don't lower the trans down or remove the engine.

It would be a waste of time to just CHECK THE STARTER. You would A Replace it with a new one or reman. B Over haul it and replace the solenoid or contacts, brushes, bushings etc. If you don't its going to be real funny if the starter goes out the 1st week.
The bolts are still a pain to get out since you only get 1/4 to 1/2 a turn at a time. I just meant it's not that hard to get the WHOLE manifold off in one piece. All the bending is what gets you.
Old 09-10-15, 02:35 AM
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All is soooo much easier with the engine out. You can sit on a stool to do the work, don't have to protect the paint on fenders etc. etc. Those bolts 1/4 if that in the car, would be easy. When I did the job some years past it was about a 2 hour deal getting them out. They are in a supper nasty spot and Lexus needed to either move the firewall back or the engine forward like 2 inches and then the job would be ok. Yes it is difficult to get the manifold off its all the disconnecting the crusty wires and hoses.


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