sha4000

iTrader: (1)

He's most likely talking about the 2 gaskets for the rear coolant crossover pipe which is right over the starter bolts.

DK Audio

Yup, that's it, he also said there is a bypass pipe with an o-ring.

Stuck at work for 11 hours, sucks not having a car!

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

The rear crossover is the one in the back, The O-ring is for the pipe running front to back but I did not change that one when I did the job.

DK Audio

Just got my car back, it was $800. He said it was a heck of a job and that if an LS ever came back in the shop for this job he would pad it more! He showed me the old starter and all the gaskets that he took off. He also said there was a lot of acorns and leaves on top of the block, almost like a nest and thought something may have chewed wire at first but that wasn't the case.

As far as my two codes that I was throwing, he said the all the sensors are working how they should but both sides had exhaust leaks. They leaks are located in front of the cats by the hangers by some vibration damping pieces. He recommended cutting off the hangers, removing the dampers, welding over the pipe, reinstalling the dampers and welding back on the hangers. Estimated about $100 to do it. Is this something I can do? I even remember reading about a member who took some thick foil of some sort and used hose clamps to seal it up and it worked and is still working. Or what about exhaust tape? They still make that stuff? I just really can't handle another repair bill right now.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

i don't think you should attemp exhaust repairs unless you have the tools and experience. You need to weld not tape that stuff up.

Screwhead

How do i check ?

randal

Locate the starter relay and pull it out..it just plugs into a socket. It is under the Relay Box Cover in the engine compartment and marked "ST". Then check it for continuity across the contacts. Energize the coil with +12v and make sure it pulls in the contacts. Following is a check list. You need to be a able to use an ohmmeter and carefully apply 12v (step 3 energizing the coil should be limited in time...maybe just a few seconds at a time to keep from portentially overheating the coil).


1. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity between pins 1 and 2.
If there is no continuity, replace the relay.
2. Check that there is no continuity between pins 3 and 5.
If there is continuity, replace the relay.

3. Apply battery voltage across pins 1 and 2. You should hear the relay click in. If it does not energize, replace the relay.
4. Using an ohmmeter, check that there is continuity beween pins 2 and 5(should be < 1 ohm). If no continuity, replace the relay.