LS - 1st and 2nd Gen (1990-2000) Discussion topics related to the 1990 - 2000 Lexus LS400

How to wash underside and engine?

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Old 04-15-14, 04:38 PM
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peterls
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Default How to wash underside and engine?

I absolutely HAVE to wash my car underside and engine. I know how dangerous that is, and I have worked on some of those sensitive parts myself... not to mention all those complaints from people who did just that - washed their car, only to find it won't start any more (or engine runs badly)

I went to a "pro" place, and they advertise as "steam wash your engine" but when I asked them how they "steam" wash it, they told me - "Oh, we just use high pressure hot water, it is not really steam..."
- What about the water getting in all kinds of places?
- Oh, don't worry about it, the worst that may happen is you need to wait for it to dry.

And the price? $125.00

So, I don't exactly feel like paying some disinterested dude to ruin my car and have to pay him an arm a leg and a kidney for the privilege...

I was thinking: if I put a bag over the alternator, possibly cover the valve covers with towels and bags (maybe even take the plastic off first so I can fit those in better), disconnect and take out the battery, and then do the wash while avoiding those sensitive sensors and their contacts, perhaps I stand a chance?
Anyone here who washed their engine on the LS400 without problems?
Old 04-15-14, 05:16 PM
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RA40
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I've not "washed" the engine compartment. I take a damp rag and wipe the dust accumulation. For any migrating oil-grease tracks, if I can get the engine cleaner to spray directly on the area I do that. Then it is wiped off with a hot damp towel. If the wiring looms or connectors are around, I use a rag sprayed with the cleaner instead.

Around the oil and tranny pans, I spray the cleaner on and squirt if off with a pressurized garden sprayer filled with hot water.
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Old 04-15-14, 05:40 PM
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sha4000
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I've had my underside and engine cleaned twice in the last couple of months. I have a leak in the front that I can't address until I do the TB and water pump. It cost me $40 each time. The guy sprayed it down with whatever degreaser that they used and power washed it. The first time I left the engine running but the second time it was off. My car fired right up both times and I did not cover anything. If your worried leave the car running.
Old 04-15-14, 09:03 PM
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Thanks for the advice guys!
Wish me luck
Old 04-16-14, 06:22 AM
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sha4000
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Good luck just try not to shoot any water directly into the alternator.
Old 04-16-14, 06:26 AM
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cgawelko
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All ive ever done is open the hood, spray with degreaser, and power wash all of it, without getting water in the intake tube. Its how dealerships wash engines, I only know from when I worked as a detailer for the enemy (Mercedes...).

I turn it off just so I don't have electricity flow through the water and cause any issues. The only time ive had one not start after was my old 88 Suzuki and because my plug wires weren't seated correctly and the plugs got wet. waited 15 minutes, put the wires back on, drove home.
Old 04-16-14, 10:55 AM
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In my 15 years as a tech, the only time I have ever had issues power washing a car is when water got into the plug valley/tubes/distributor or if there was a brittle/damaged connector that the pressure washer damaged/destroyed.... That connector really should have been replaced to begin with. In all cases, blowing out those places and down the engine with compressed air rectified any poor running condidtions.

I've always let the engine warm up a little, shut it off, bagged anying critical, sprayed down with decreased, let sit for 30-60mins, power washed with an adjustable nozzle wand, blew out/down engine, removed bags and fired it up, let it warm up fully and take for a test drive.

It always seems to be carelessness and using too powerful a pressure washer when problems come up. You only need one of those cheap electric detailing type pressure washers, NOT a gas-powered oscillating nozzle paint stripping/concrete washing style machine.
Old 04-16-14, 11:34 AM
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i only cover the alternator as i had a bad experience in my old honda from the regulator short circuiting due to water intrusion. other than that i spray degreaser in only the greasy spots, the rest with simple green diluted with water, and go to town with a pressure washer. avoid spraying anything (other than water) onto the accessory belt!

btw, don't spray degreaser into the windshield cowl or your interior will smell like degreaser!

since i don't have lots of hot water available, i try not to power wash the engine when it is super hot so i let the engine sit for a bit before spraying anything. i am afraid the sudden change in temp as you douse hot metal with cold/luke warm water will cause problems. could just be me but that's what i do.
Old 04-16-14, 08:42 PM
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I love all the advice here, makes me much more confident going in there...

And just had an idea: I plan on using duct tape to wrap it around those sensitive sensors and contacts, places where water may get in, perhaps around my O2 sensors (even though they are denso, two dinky little wires are exposed too much for my taste), and a few other places around the engine.

As for putting bags, I plan on putting them around:
- Alternator
- Distributors
- ignition coils
- I may take out entire air intake including air filter and MAF and then just stuff a small towel inside the throttle body and put a bag over the whole thing

And then I will put duct tape around sensitive parts, and over both banks of sparkplugs, and hopefully it should all work out.

Wish me luck
Old 04-17-14, 12:56 AM
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cgawelko
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That's more precautions than I would take, you should be fine. Its important to keep a CLEAN engine bay.
Old 04-17-14, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by peterls
I love all the advice here, makes me much more confident going in there...

And just had an idea: I plan on using duct tape to wrap it around those sensitive sensors and contacts, places where water may get in, perhaps around my O2 sensors (even though they are denso, two dinky little wires are exposed too much for my taste), and a few other places around the engine.

As for putting bags, I plan on putting them around:
- Alternator
- Distributors
- ignition coils
- I may take out entire air intake including air filter and MAF and then just stuff a small towel inside the throttle body and put a bag over the whole thing

And then I will put duct tape around sensitive parts, and over both banks of sparkplugs, and hopefully it should all work out.

Wish me luck
Sounds like a good plan to me. I'll have to get mine cleaned again after I fix the leak in a week or two. I hate working on a filthy car.
Old 04-18-14, 10:17 AM
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I hear you, I am quite certain that mine has NEVER been washed, like at least not in the past 10-15 years, so there are layers of gunk, plus I had a leak a few months ago, so it is absolutely filthy right now.
Old 04-18-14, 10:53 AM
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avoid using duct tape! the adhesive will not come off especially if used on hot engine parts! use more temporary tape such as masking or painting tape!

in actuality the engine is pretty water proof, even the alternator but i would still bag it. the distributors are under a cover and the intake should be ok. just don't soak an area for too long. a pressure washer works much better (small amounts of water with lots of air pressure) than just a regular hose.
Old 06-07-14, 04:29 AM
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Have to clean mine this weekend. Usually, I just bag alternator, rag and bag air intake, degreaser, then garden hose on shower or mist. Oh, run engine for a few minutes to get it warm to the touch but never hot before all above. I try to clean it once a year.
Old 06-07-14, 11:23 AM
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The intake plenum valley is not a good place to allow water to settle. When mixed with oil, it will not evaporate, keep that area as dry as possible unless you have the top off and can clean and dry it thoroughly.


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