dsierra25

please help!!! so this morning i went to leave for work and my lexus wouldnt start i tried a few times then finally it started. immediately after it started up the front defrost button started to flash( which i have never seen happen before) then it ran fine. it did this twice today.



just a little additional information i changed the starter not long ago change the oil regulary mobile one and really take care of my car. ( although i havent tuned it up since i bought it which i think might be the issue) ive owned it for about 6 months now. i was told throttle body cleaning and change spark plugs but i wanted a second opinion pkease dont be harsh! just need help thanks

BobSmith00

Now I'm likely the worst person to comment.
But...
I do know whenever I have my battery unhooked, then hook it back up I get the blinking front Defroster button. I assume its just some reset process, but again I'm not so smurt. I have a 96, I dunno about the year of yours.

LScowboyLS

except for the obvious first thing to check (battery terminals & connections) - defrost light flashing 10 times is your climate control going into reset, this evidence concurrent with a starting problem, is 99.9% evidence of failing ECU capacitors

to repeat, the only other logical possibility is a battery/battery connection issue) the + terminal where it connects to the cable with a bolt a few inches away from the battery post is notorious for becoming corroded and is a good idea to replace (about $14 at any Toyota dealer)

as far as the maintenance items you mentioned - plugs, wires, caps and rotors are a great idea - just make sure to use the real Toyota parts on caps & rotors and on wires and plugs you can save some money by using NGK or NipponDenso (the OEMs)

dsierra25

Well the year on my lexus is 1997 I dropped by my mechanic today and he said that it certainly is either the battery or alternator. ( more than likely alternator) because I am powering two 12" sub woofers and LED bulbs in place of factory interior lights. He mentioned something about cold cranking amps and the battery I have more than likely is not suitable for everything or the alternator has failed. And also I tune up wouldn't be bad either.

LScowboyLS

yes, an alternator could also cause the problem, if the battery is not getting sufficiently charged - put a voltmeter across the battery with car off and you should have at least 12.5V and then run car at idle with stereo on and you should get at least 13.5V and then at 2500 rpm and you should have at least 14V

dsierra25

well i took the car to the local autozone and tested the alternator and the battery everything was working correctly. but the guy did mention that the battery connector was very loose so i bought a conncetor and will replace it this evening. hopefully thats the problem. if not on to step two which is cleaning throttle body and MAS mass air flow sensor (of course i am going to tune it up no matter what but i want to try and see what the cause of this first) any additional suggestions are welcome. thanks in advance

LScowboyLS

I hope you bought the connector on the + side from the Toyota dealership, and not Autozone - it is important

just unbolt it and bring in the old one from the parking lot, or just tell them it is the same one as practically every Toyota product used in the 1990's, they have them in stock!


neither of those two having issues would cause your climate system to go into reset

BobSmith00

I have seen you mention this a number of times, and I'm sure at least a few folks are wondering the why on this So Mr. Cowboy, why get this part specifically from a dealership vs aftermarket?

dsierra25

as bob metioned i was wondering why is it so important to buy a toyota connector? it just holds the battery wire and i honestly think mine is aftermarket already. but just curious as to what difference it makes

Yamae

You must be not familiar to the galvanic corrosion. A metal to another metal contact needs a good engineering study and considerations for a longer reliability. For an example the connection between the copper and the aluminum cause a corrosion between them quickly and electrons cannot go through. You'd better to read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion first.

Toyota pays good attentions on the galvanic corrosion and metals / materials are selected carefully not to cause a corrosion problem. Aftermarket ones lack the considerations on this most of the case.

BobSmith00

And that sums that up pretty well. I feel that was a very solid response. And actually answers the standing question of "Why get the Toyota one?"

nthach

The OEM Toyota connector is a plug&play deal. A universal one needs to be spliced in. Not to mention one is brass, the other is lead and won't make a solid connection.

python

iTrader: (4)

go to ur local napa and get this...
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...249_0282397832

LScowboyLS

reread post #10

LScowboyLS

the correct part number for the battery positive terminal is 90982-05037

Toyota Parts Zone has it for $13.70, a local dealership should be able to match that or very close.

you can check also Sewell, Lexus of South Atlanta, Park Place, Carson etc. but they are all around $14