LANcr3w

]

So testing it like this can mess the ECU up is what your saying? Your also saying theres no grounds? Not sure if i follow that. So there isnt a wire between the Ignition Coil and the Igniter module that is used as a ground? I am lost by doing that method i get spark on one side but not the other, on passenger side coil i dont get the 12v like i do on driver side. But it will spark at random like its grounding out somewhere.

Any suggestions on what could cause that? Im going to try new igniter modules today even though they seemed to test good.

LANcr3w

If anyone could supply a link to some diagrams that would also be greatly appreciated. I realize that its ECU to Igniter modules to Ignition coils. I have new spark plugs, wires, caps and rotors. So ive switched the coils to the working side and they generate spark.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Hope this helps.

LANcr3w

Yes actually i definitely needed that diagram thank you!
Hopefully i can find a problem within this system.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

Anytime I hope you get it worked out.

LANcr3w

Going by the diagram you gave me, would you say the crankshaft and camshaft sensors are the grounds for this whole system? We still cannot see why we arent getting power at the Ignition coil 1. We are testing power by checking voltage from the plug in to the coil. The wire going to the distributor has 12v but when touched with the wire going to the igniter we get 0v but if we use the other wire and touch it to the other ignition coils ground wire we get 12v like it should.

Still having the same results after replacing the whole wire as well as the igniters. ANY idea where might the problem be? Still seems as if there is no reason why we shouldnt have power to both ignition coils.

Yamae

Your statement is exposing that you are fighting against a monster without knowing the character and how it is dangerous. But don't worry there are nice members who can help you.

Reading your posts, I find that you are somewhat close to the point but you can't find it.

If I were you, I would check the drive signal IGT1 and IGT2 ( IGT stands for IGnition Trigger) first. I also would check the signal IGF1 and IGF2 (IGF stands for IGnition Feedback) next.

In order to do these, to use an oscilloscope would be the best to observe waveforms but a simple circuit tester could be helpful some since there are 2 separate circuits and you can compare the swinging voltages of them as the average if it's an analog meter. In case of a digital meter, you will see the unstable voltages and you can read the minimum and the maximum. The comparison of reading results will help you to step the next.

Inform me the results and I will write you the next step to be done.

LScowboyLS

did you clear the ECU codes and rescan?

cobalt91

how did the coils test? is the one not sparking testing within spec?

LANcr3w

Okay and update on my situation. First I appreciate all help given. So by replacing the ECU and still having the problems I was having before but not as bad led me to think I should check everything before the ECU again.

Judging by its symptoms it wasn't getting spark so I tested everything in the ignition system.
Spark Plugs
Spark plug Wires
Distributor caps and rotors
Ignition coils
Igniters

The tests showed all these functioned but I wasn't getting spark to the topside passenger Ignition coil. Putting a meter to it I wasn't getting the 12v when touching both wires of the plug in for the coil. When left on the positive side and touched to the other coils negative I got the results needed.

Basically trying several different variations to get the 12v need and it just drew power away.

So coming to a conclusion that this "new" ECU is also bad.

LANcr3w

Ive been looking around to purchase a new ECU or somewhere good to ship mine to be repaired, but im not really looking to spend more than $150 and also don't really want to spend that much as well.

I did read LScowboyLS's post on replacing capacitors but how reliable and will that fix my problem?
Ive seen some places offer lifetime warrantys on a already repaired one or you have to send it off.

Whats my best bet on getting this car to stay running? I plan on using it as my daily

Yamae

I found you were not understanding the the circuit diagram kindly sent from sha4000.
Look at it again. As long as the ignition key is turned on, the 12V is supplied to coils. The red lines are so.

You are informing us,"I wasn't getting the 12v when touching both wires of the plug in for the coil." What you are writing simply means that some part of the red line is not connected properly. Why don't you check the line between the switch and the coil.

LANcr3w

Yeah hold the voltmeter on IGF1 and IGT1 while key is on and I get power in IGT1 but not when u touch IGF1 with it. The ignition coil 2 works perfectly fine. That's why when I can get it to start up sound like its only running on one side. We took the wire coming from IGF1 and spliced it with IGF2 and all it did was draw power and got 0v on that side.

Maybe thatll explain what I meant a little better. Kind of hard to explain without typing up an essay lol

LANcr3w

Glad u mentioned that I want be 99.9% sure its the ECU before I go out and buy one.

Yamae

Sorry to say but you still don't understand the circuit.
Without the 12V, there would be no spark. What you have to do first is to find out the reason why the 12V is not supplied from the switch to the coil.