So I am trying to take off my rear spacers and I'm unable to due to the fact that it may be cross threaded! There two actually that are stuck! I have tried my air gun, breaker bar with cheater bar and nothing. Was going to try extractor but the damn side wall on the extractor is too thick so could not use it. I just want it off if it breaks well most likely it will, then I will replace the stud. Before taking it to the tire shop where got my tires from where they put the spacers on cause I had it with me at the time so ask them to put it on( which I probably shouldn't have) if cant get it off myself then Ill go ask the tire shop to remove it hoping their air gun will have more power/torque to break it loose.

 

are you just reversing? try tightening and then loosening with air gun. theres always room to tighten a little bit more = enough to break it free.. or if it indeed is crossed.. tightening loosen tighten loosen and it will create a new path and destroy the thread. or a torch and split the bolt or nut then shoot it off.

 

A cold chisel on the nut to try and split it in half also isn't a bad idea.

 

take it back to the shop that did the work...its their responsibility to fix the shoddy work they did,ill bet they didnt even torque the lug nuts,probably just zipped em down with the gun, i wont stand for **** like that..i always ask the manager to make sure they use a torque stick then a torque wrench

 

Yes I am just reversing haven't tried going forward and back yet.

 

I am more than likely going to take it to them to remove it! And just replace the stud although will need nut to hold down the spacers again, know where I can get some from? It's the nut from like hub centric adapters that have the stud on it already and just slide that over the stock one and the nuts came with the spacers to tighten it down in place.

 

When replacing stud on ls400, it's a 98 by the way. Will I only need to remove caliper and rotor or does the whole hub have to come off?

 

you're talking about the open ended acorn lug nuts. you can get them at o'reilly's.



nope. you only need to remove the 2 screws holding the rotor, then remove the caliper (which is 2 bolts from the back). get a jackstand and raise it up so you can lay the caliper on there while you're working on the car. should be real easy to bang out and replace. a few good whacks and the stud should come off easily. when putting the new stud in, start it off by twisting it around to where the teeth of the new stud makes good contact with the grooves of the hub holes, then hammer it in from the back with a few good whacks. then use two open ended acorn lug nuts, put the first lug nut flat side in first into the new stud, then the second one flat side sticking out. so it looks like this: |><. then get your impact gun (21mm socket), and shoot them in.

 

front studs are easy, rears are a pain because of reduced clearance from the drum-in-disk setup.

I advise against banging the stud out, it's bad for the wheel bearing. I use a pivoting press like this, takes about 2 seconds to set up on the stud (getting it lined up) and then a blast from the impact is all it takes. Plus there's no horizontal loading on the bearings. (http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html )

Also, instead of using your lugnuts which can get mangled up when you let them rub against each other, I advocate buying $3 worth of M12x1.5 nuts and washers from your local hardware store and using those instead.

 

Took it to the tire shop and they fail to remove it and now it is still stuck! Guess its time to split the nut and go from there, the extractor socket have the walls are too thick

 

So far only got one off :/ thread look fine not cross threaded I guess just on super tight ill try to remove the other one tomorrow

 

i always ask the manager to make sure they use a torque stick then a torque wrench