BobSmith00

Yeah I'm going to order based on the first post. Its not a professional place but someone who used to repair arcade machines and the like.

Once I get it running again I will do this again, but when I put the other battery in before it was a brand new hot battery that had been charging and it was reading 13.48V When I checked it right after starting it up, which made me think at first all was fixed.

I downloaded the PDFs from TIS and am just now really diving in them. But sadly because I have the manual it has yet to make me gifted at these things, but I'm trying.



I'll be sure sometime tomorrow, if its not storming, about the fuel pressure and/or if any of it is getting anywhere.

Its much helpful getting some tips and whatnot from someone. The car you have pictured in your gallery looks like how I want mine to. Its that same color but the paint is a little messaged up with some slight body damage, and it has the gold badges. But the cosmetic stuff is an afterthought until it functions again.

LScowboyLS

I found that creampuff in South Florida on ebay, and I paid the big bucks because I wanted one that looked like it was still new! - I flew down from Birmingham and picked it up and drove it home, after sending the seller $1000 deposit based on his ebay reputation and spectacular clear photos.

BobSmith00

Not to totally derail the thread..
But
I still haven't been able to get ahold of an odbii reader, and it rained a number of days after my first posts. Without the required stuff to check the fuel pressure. My friend had an idea.

So Here is where I am. Disconnected the flare nut end of the fuel filter.

Turned key to on position, nothing happened.

Turned Key to cranking/starting position fuel squirted out. It appeared to be quite a bit. So the key was turned off.

My question is that normal? Other cars I've drove when turning the key to on, the fuel pump does something, this one is only doing something when attempting to start the car, and its putting out a Healthy dose of gas.

LScowboyLS

you know you can get an excellent OBD-II reader delivered to your door in 2 days for $17, right?

I think the more important question is whether fuel is reaching the cylinders, not whether it is reaching the fuel filter, at this point.

sometimes just going back to basics is the easiest, check for fire and fuel at the the plugs!

Paul "Scanner" Danner has a cool video to very quickly at least check for firing up to the distributor caps!

BobSmith00

Actually I never thought to check Amazon for a reader. Buying in a moment.

Will watch the video and look into such things morrow. Thanks again for the ODBii reader link.

Gensc300

I pulled my ecu from my 94 gs300 to see if my capacitors needed replacing. And i would think that they do especially these i found.it looks like a leak IDK u guys be the judge.

LScowboyLS

YES - you win the prize! - lol

and you better get that neutralized, because it is doing real damage to the board, see how the copper circuit traces are being eaten away?

Fix it now because the board is not really fixable once the traces are eaten through.

Gensc300

Ive had this car for two months and i had to swap out ecus because the other one was running hella rich. Now this ones on its way out damn. So what would be the best way to neutralize it?

I originally just wanted to open my ecu just to check cause i was curious lol. Look what i found damn im glad i found this thread.

LScowboyLS

make sure you post #1 of this thread a few times in full, and if you decide to fix it yourself, or have it fixed, MAKE SURE you order the correct capacitors I linked to, these are a rare type, and every one I have even seen rebuild the ECU's never uses the correct ones. - So if you are having someone else do the soldering, make sure YOU order and supply the capacitors, otherwise they will likely be incorrect brand or type or rating. - Even the places that specialize in this can't seem to get it right, so don't assume they know what to use and will do it right, they won't!

To neutralize leaking caps, I do it like this:

take a soft clean woman's unused makeup brush, and wash the area with board on it's side in the following order:

vinegar wash
distilled water rinse
wash with baking soda and distilled water mix
distilled water rinse
91% or higher isopropyl alcohol (or PGA aka EverClear) rinse


this doesn't fix the ECU, but minimizes the damage to the board until you can get it fixed.

Candysking

LS Cowboy and Yamae; Add my 96 LS to your resurrected list. I purchased caps per your specs, getting 3 sets just in case(So cheap anyway) from DigiKey. after they shipped to the wrong address and sent me another order expedited, I ended up with 6 sets. Took them to my neighborhood TV repairman, who gave me comfort in his swap out. Checked out position, polarity, all good. I reinstalled the ECU a week ago. 350 miles and not a single misfire problem.
Everything Perfect? Well not exactly. Engine runs phenomenally well now, power and fuel economy back to the good times. But, am now getting check engine coming back on. Checked it 3 times at O'Reilly this past week, each time getting trouble code p0430, "Cat system efficiency below threshold (Bank 2). This was same side as my repeated misfire problem.

Did I drive too many miles sending unburned fuel through my exhaust? 800-1000 miles?
Destroyed my cat? Does it ever reverse itself at least a bit now that it is running well?

One other note, not sure if related to the ecu, I am getting some odd shifting in the tranny. Occasionally when coming to a stop light, seems the tranny doesn't downshift to low gear, and will bog the engine down. Ecu controls the tranny too right? Where do I go next?

LScowboyLS

the ECU capacitor fix doesn't solve ALL problems on an LS400 - just most of them!

did you use the exact caps I actually linked to?

clear the ECU code and see if it comes back, also, take the car out on a high speed trip on the Interstate where you can travel at 75mph for a couple of hours or more straight, that should refresh the cats!

Yamae

Now the ECU is working well and can generate the error code.
The CAT of yours might had some extra heat for some time and that might cause problems like a clogging, a crack or sometimes the poor efficiency. I hope it's only the clogging. If so, running fast for a few hours after the reset as LScowboyLS has mentioned would be effective.

Regarding the AT, I need some more information to judge. You wrote, "Happens occasionally,"
Is it temperature related?
Is it related with anything like from high speed run to stop or not speed related?

LScowboyLS

when was the last time this transmission had a drain & fill with fresh genuine T-IV fluid?

when was the last time the filter screen was replaced or at least inspected & cleaned?

how about the pan cleaned at the same time?

also, it can be amazing how many transmission issues on our cars are something as simple as a misadjusted transmission throttle cable or incorrect fluid level.

Candysking

Yes; purchased exact caps you spec'd out for 96 LS.
I cleared the error code twice, both times came back after about 60-80 miles. I cleared again, have driven about 60 miles, has not come back on yet. Trying to get it out on extended expressway run at 75 +. So far only able to do a few 10 milers.

Tranny downshift problem seems to be most prevalent when cruising at 40-60, then a gradual deceleration to a stop, (traffic light). This occurs when engine shows full operating temperature, but within 10 minutes of starting cold. (Cold relative as in Central Florida in Summertime now). Today, after first 10 minutes, it did not recur.

Tranny was serviced with drain, filter kit and gaskets 17k ago.

I'll keep driving and analyzing these items, but overall, my 96LS is in much better condition than a few weeks ago. Running very well.
Thank you again LS Cowboy and Yamae. I will report back.

LScowboyLS

how much crap was in the filter?

that is a good indicator of overall transmission wear

I wouldn't worry too much, you have possibly the most reliable transmission ever made, the legendary Aisin A340E (aka 30-40LE)