I did my timing belt today all is well
#1
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I did my timing belt today all is well
Took advantage of and extra day off today and did the timing belt,water pump and idlers. Everything is back together and running fine.
Last edited by Lexinky; 09-03-12 at 06:31 PM. Reason: add pic
#3
#4
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Timing belt Factory Service Manual
I'm not able to do a write up. But will add some tips.
I read the Factory Service Manual, and after reading it twice, it did make sense that with this higher compression interference engine that with the crank at TDC ( crank pulley mark lined up with the 0 on the lower cover) a cam gear could get away from the person doing the job and spin quickly as they do sometimes if they are loaded with stored energy. ( think about the cam turned and a valve being 1/2 open and the cam slips , It spins quickly powered by the spring pressure of the partially opened valve/s) If you have done many timing belts you probably have seen this.
Anyways the FSM tells you to rotate the crank 50 dgrees ATDC, so that if a cam does slip, the piston is not up but partially down, and therefore the piston and valve cannot hit. The FSM says with the crank at 50 degrees ATDC to line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the pulleys and install the belt ( ignoring any physical timing marks ). then rotate the engine CLOCKWISE 2 turns to check the timing.
KEEP THIS IN MIND. As long as when you are done the crank pulley is on zero ( temporarily install lower timing cover the crank pulley to check this) and the cams are on their marks you are good to go. The timing belt marks are irrelevent after the engine is turn over to line these marks up.
I actually did not do the 50 degrees thing per the FSM. I lined up the crank pulley and the cam pulleys BEFORE i took the belt off and reinstalled it the same way, When I rotated the engine 2 times the marks were still aligned and I was good.
I am glad to help if possible, I have subscribed to this and will recheck the forum if if you have questions.
I read the Factory Service Manual, and after reading it twice, it did make sense that with this higher compression interference engine that with the crank at TDC ( crank pulley mark lined up with the 0 on the lower cover) a cam gear could get away from the person doing the job and spin quickly as they do sometimes if they are loaded with stored energy. ( think about the cam turned and a valve being 1/2 open and the cam slips , It spins quickly powered by the spring pressure of the partially opened valve/s) If you have done many timing belts you probably have seen this.
Anyways the FSM tells you to rotate the crank 50 dgrees ATDC, so that if a cam does slip, the piston is not up but partially down, and therefore the piston and valve cannot hit. The FSM says with the crank at 50 degrees ATDC to line up the marks on the belt with the marks on the pulleys and install the belt ( ignoring any physical timing marks ). then rotate the engine CLOCKWISE 2 turns to check the timing.
KEEP THIS IN MIND. As long as when you are done the crank pulley is on zero ( temporarily install lower timing cover the crank pulley to check this) and the cams are on their marks you are good to go. The timing belt marks are irrelevent after the engine is turn over to line these marks up.
I actually did not do the 50 degrees thing per the FSM. I lined up the crank pulley and the cam pulleys BEFORE i took the belt off and reinstalled it the same way, When I rotated the engine 2 times the marks were still aligned and I was good.
I am glad to help if possible, I have subscribed to this and will recheck the forum if if you have questions.
Last edited by Lexinky; 09-03-12 at 06:34 PM.
#6
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About 8 hours maybe a little longer, I don't really no for certain. I was working alone, for the most of the time after my son had to go to work, and I have no air tools.
It took awhile to figure out how to take the fan bracket off also. ( 2 bolts for the a/c compressor )
This is the first 1uz engine I have done.
The FSM had me confused for a bit with the proceedure for the mechical timing, but as you can read in the previous post I made it all makes sense as long as you have the correct belt with the correct markings.
It took awhile to figure out how to take the fan bracket off also. ( 2 bolts for the a/c compressor )
This is the first 1uz engine I have done.
The FSM had me confused for a bit with the proceedure for the mechical timing, but as you can read in the previous post I made it all makes sense as long as you have the correct belt with the correct markings.
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#8
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#10
yep i too did not do the 15deg ATDC on my 97 and it worked out well just the same. just be careful to not move the cam when placing the belt back on the sprockets (duh). like what lexinky said, rotate the crank two full turns and the cam sprockets should be back at their original position, regardless of where the timing marks are on the belt itself.
#13
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Yep, I had a local ( not a dealer ) Shop that specializes in Lexus and Toyota quote me $ 1,380.
I did it myself for less than $ 400.
And, I know what was done, and that it was done correctly, with quality parts
I did it myself for less than $ 400.
And, I know what was done, and that it was done correctly, with quality parts
#14
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we have done 5 of these, and also:
I actually did not do the 50 degrees thing per the FSM. I lined up the crank pulley and the cam pulleys BEFORE i took the belt off and reinstalled it the same way, When I rotated the engine 2 times the marks were still aligned and I was good.
and have never had a problem...
I actually did not do the 50 degrees thing per the FSM. I lined up the crank pulley and the cam pulleys BEFORE i took the belt off and reinstalled it the same way, When I rotated the engine 2 times the marks were still aligned and I was good.
and have never had a problem...
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