compumedic

I just recently had my alternator replace.

during the install the mechanic helper in jump starting the vehicle using a booster box connected the negative to the positive and vice versa.

since then, to start the vehicle you must jump it to do so.

the battery has been replaced and the alternator shows it is charging correctly.

the vehicle starts with a jump on the first attempt.

so it seems that the auto now needs additional amps to start.

has anyone encountered a similar issue with starting?

is this a starter or a fuse issue?

any assistance in the right direction would be appreciated.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

check to see if you have reversed polarity...

Car battery polarity can only reverse if the battery is dead and then charged with the neg. and pos. leads of the charger are reversed.

compumedic

reversed polarity is not the case as I have went to the extent of having the battery replaced thinking the battery wasn't suppling the correct amps after the mishap.

to accommodate going out in the vehicle, I have had to resorted to carrying my motorcycle battery with me to provide the extra amps needed to return home.

the additional problem I am faced with is that I am currently on an island in the Bahamas and there is no certified mechanics on island and they have given me confusing opinions: (ie the cable, the battery, the alternator, the fuse, etc)

none have panned out o be correct in my opinion, for one reason or other.

I am to the point of accepting that the problem may be that the starter, but want to be sure as I have to order from the USA, ship, pay customs, etc and it may not be the problem.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

I have had two (identical) starter problems (99 & 97)... when I put the key in to start the engine, it would "click" if I let off and tried again, another click... my problem was the solenoid contacts in my starter. I replaced them and no more problem.. my 99 was over a year ago.
photos below: it was not hard, but a lot of work.

steve2006

Is the replacement battery the correct type for the car? It should be at least providing 580 CCA preferably 630 CCA this information should be on the label of the battery. If it is lower than this it may be the problem.
Also make sure the battery connections are clean and tight but don't overtighten and snap off a battery post!

Why did you have to replace the alternator? If it was covered in power steering fluid did you also replace the power steering resevoir O ring seal?

BobN54

1. Remove the battery terminal clamps, clean the contact areas on the clamps and the battery posts, and make them shine with sandpaper. Reinstall and make sure they are tightened snugly, but not overtightened.
2. Get a voltmeter and check the voltage at the battery terminal posts (put leads directly on the battery posts, not the terminal clamps, and verify the voltage is 13.8 to 14.5 volts DC when the car is idling.

If that does not fix it, remove the battery and charge it on a shop charger. Reinstall it and see if it starts. If it does, then your new alternator is not doing its job. If not, it's back to checking the battery cables. When you jump start, are you connecting the negative(black) cable to the car's battery or to someplace on the car frame or engine?

compumedic

have tried all that have been recommended except changing starter or solenoid.

it just seem that the car needs extra amps to start. have changed battery to higher amps but one battery alone don't seem to start it.

if I attach another battery via jumper cables, it starts on the first try.

I have to now travel with the extra battery to return home.

without the second battery it seems that the car dashboard light goes out while attempting to start.

once the car is started it is actually charging battery and tests on alternator now proves that.

it now seems after the electrical mishap while while using a booster after the alternator repair changed the dynamics of starting the car.